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Original Message [link to rafalbauer.pl]

Tehran 4.45
Published: rafalbauer on April 22nd, 2013

That is how the media is governed by our imagination ...


Cognitive dissonance, though it is now well known, defies precise definition. It touches us in different circumstances, by their nature, difficult to quantify, and place an equal sign between them seems to be completely impossible. It is much easier to indicate local maxima, especially when the reality that we know is funded by knockout. Passengers choosing to Tehran, he should prepare for a shock, which has known Max - one of the two main characters in the classic "Sexmisji". The difference is only that the veil, which the Queen Mother ordered to develop around the blockhouse C, it could be a blow to break the knife. Meanwhile, traveling from Tehran to the real media takes much longer, and perhaps never really never ends.

The hearing was the stereotype could basically start at the very airport where admission to Tehran lacks any restrictions. Of course, just before landing, ladies form a large queue to the toilet and the only difference will be that some will return it in various shades of headscarves, others in chadors. If exactly the same dealings with us during the flight to any destination Islamic, here amazes me: I'm going after the capital fanatical Islamic republic. Will gain her respect, to see how disciplined and quiet the whole plane will move to border control. When it was my turn, bored clerk (the one in the night) did not even ask me any questions. Nothing not instruct. Crash stamps and I am in stool evil. It is here that the nozzle hate another war.

The first breath of fresh air leads to a reflection on the architecture of airports. All modern are mostly bland. It's behind me could easily be in any European city. What's more, the visitor does not hit the giant Khomeini's portrait or password rallying to fight against the U.S. or any other imperialism. And if any oppressive to reveal it will be ... Samsung Galaxy III generation passionately touted on most carriers. Fast themselves explain that little tourist traffic here and abroad, probably reluctantly let out, and if it is, officers or citizens thoroughly checked. The thought ukolebie me to sleep, when the hour's rickety Peugeot 405 finally find myself in a hotel bed.

From the morning begins, however, a series of surprises. The sanctions are mainly financial transaction lock - in effect, a visitor must be equipped with the right amount of cash. While guidebooks recommend dollars, the natives are of course much more fondness for the EURO, but both the one and the other, confront us with a choice: to replace it in the bank or exchange office? The question is purely rhetorical: the difference between 24.000 and 34.500 per dollar strongly discourages the first option. We order a taxi. Arming the guard in the next, this time striking a clean, 405 First, second, third, fourth intersection and it becomes clear that Cairo, Amman, Algiers, Tripoli, Tunis and Rabat is a completely different city. But it may be only a small part of this great city: district-card. It is, however, something else: the Persians apparently form a completely different, much more European than Arab societies. Replacement of the counter is not accompanied by a sophisticated scam is for a bored cashier along with the taxi driver who brought us here, ostensibly counts a large pile of these notes. Both take a clear suspicion of benevolent understanding. This situation is probably the place very often, whereas I feel like a pensioner from Germany on a trip to Olsztyn. All around familiar, but somehow like others.

Cash will be a moment to purchase tickets for internal flights on Iran, but no-one and nothing we did not mind. To do that once in the Soviet Union would be quite impossible for a tourist to do, here is carried out without any problem. When buying tickets situation hit me on the street: a young girl arguing with a policeman. More precisely, it is obviously on it wisely. I do not know exactly what went wrong, but it looks like that did not allow her to park on upatrzonym place at the neighboring house. Well, surprise again. According to the stereotype should be paralyzing fear of the authorities. So what is she doing alone in the car!

The reality around me reminds me more Jaruzelski in the era of the late communist, but friendly diplomat, who is here for years and it was rather late Lonka Brezhnev. Of course, the question of whose perspective makes these observations, because Teheranów are many. My unofficial tour guide declares, in principle, from the point that it is not religious, but he believes in God. I do not drink alcohol because it is unhealthy. Dancing, of course, likes and very willing to do it. Pornography does not watch, because her dream is to connect sex and love. But I saw something with animals. I did not like her, but expanded horizons. All these states, resulting in efficient car in the streets, where the example of other countries in the region the rules do not apply. "Agentura some?" - I just wonder what interest would the Islamic Republic in convincing tourists that it is promiscuous. The more that is going to convince her quite well: in a public park Marycha feel of any large group of young people and vehicles under active bars mixed company lets the hits from mobile phones. Here's Marycha carries the death penalty, and other than religious music is officially banned. "In Iran everything is forbidden," - says my tour guide - "but as you want, you can all" and this bold thesis is relatively easy to confirm.

Interestingly, a bit different to see diplomats. Of course, that people live their lives, but it is not nearly as colorful. However confirms one thing: without a stamp in the proof of electoral work in the state-owned (and hence social) has a chance. Opinion that devout Muslims are opportunists in post, my interlocutors do not share, but I sense a certain solidarity officers here. "They pray five times a day after because I do not want to lose" - here the tour guide sounded much more reliably. "The private job the there are no rules. Marna pay, no insurance and little prospects for advancement. Everyone is dreaming state attractive job. " These reactionary views recognize in the middle of the night in the student pub, on the street and in a secluded city park. Anywhere quiet and peaceful. Could merit public executions? "What?" - Asks the tour guide clearly skonfudowana. "But this is the perfect entertainment for the masses" - explains the point of the diplomat, adding that it is primarily an instrument of domestic policy, which here is the same role as in our dark soap opera with Magda and her mom. "We basically do not like anyone" - explains the tour guide. This is confirmed by the words of a diplomat. Iran official and subcutaneous has basically only enemies, but the above information should be read in knowing that ... citizens have passports at home and can go where they want and when they want. "Subject to the entry visas" - he adds with a wry smile diplomat ensuring that the Iranian passport when traveling quite a hurdle. Western lifestyle? "Sex, alcohol and drugs are mainly interested in them" - a portrait of his generation my tour guide. "Europeanization? No! Modernization "- denies Pole-Iranista insisting that events are, of course, but not so boisterous, that yes, they drink, but not so much as a modern and trendy clothes does not mean that it is a European style (sic).

We both agree on one thing: the war in Iraq has become a founding myth. This is what the intention of the American strategists had swept Ayatollah, the practice has built the Iranian people. Even the Arabs (according to the Persians: the worst bastard), residing Petroleum noon, took the side of the Iranian homeland. That is why war is in Tehran "always alive" and every move to get murals glorifying fallen heroes. In contrast, it is difficult to monuments of the revolution itself. Generally, the symbols of Islam and the Prophet gestuje green color here very carefully. And although there is a lot of mosques are small and almost invisible. In addition, the Arab regulars extremely surprised at the total absence of public space advocates the muezzin prayers.

Strange is that the Islamic Republic. Without the great monuments of the revolution at every turn, with carefully preserved palaces Shah (which are made available to the public), with support for studies at foreign (including American) universities. On the other hand, the "revolutionary fervor" convinced in November 2011 British diplomats. The storming of the embassy staff remembered as vividly before 22 years, when the young revolution attacked the U.S. embassy, with the difference that this time was not taken hostage.

Conclusion? Black PR Iran has and will continue to have good, because its maintenance is probably in the interests of both parties. Ethos of the founding of the Islamic Iran war. Chief American ally in the region need a foe. Everyone is happy.

And ordinary people? The young taxi driver was carrying me to the airport. When I say that is the first taxi driver under 40 what I have seen here makes it clear that the same taxi rides his grandfather and father, and he's only when you do not want to at that. English knows quite well. I want to go, but just to make money and go back to Iran. Girls? Well, Iran is the most beautiful, but they want to get married - and it is a big problem. Do you have a sister? It has, but his sister is different than most girls! "Girls in Tehran behave like Ukrainian: sharp makeup, good clothes, all to catch a husband" - he explains.

We drove on the highway. Fasten seat belt, speed control and a ban on talking on a cell phone. Someone who disregard this information, bitterly disappointed: some 5 km away stands a patrol with radar. Tehran 4.45. The radio goes Rihanna
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