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survival handbooks, medicine, general survival skills

 
Anonymous Coward
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12/10/2010 09:44 AM
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survival handbooks, medicine, general survival skills
Could any one provide me with links to manuals or handbooks that have all the information on raising your own garden, natural medicines etc. I'm looking to print some of these out and put them in a file cabinet for help maybe in the future to reference if the internet is not available. Thank you
Anonymous Coward
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12/10/2010 09:45 AM
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Re: survival handbooks, medicine, general survival skills
you should have started this YEARS ago, hon.

There is SO much info, I have thick volumns of printed out and organized info, but the best place to start is any site dedicated to just survival.
Luckystrike

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12/10/2010 09:47 AM
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Re: survival handbooks, medicine, general survival skills
you should have started this YEARS ago, hon.

There is SO much info, I have thick volumns of printed out and organized info, but the best place to start is any site dedicated to just survival.
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 621620


If you haven't already, then start today. Today is better than tomorrow...
Everyone needs to believe in something...I believe I'll have another beer.
Maguyver
Fix'r

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12/10/2010 09:47 AM

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Re: survival handbooks, medicine, general survival skills
Look for an old, pre-1900 cooking and medicial book. Yes, they are often in the same binding. It should have instructions on everything from butchering a cow and processing the innards to a salve to fight infection. I have a couple passed down through the family. VERY interesting reading.

cheers
Adversity is inevitable, misery is optional.

Do or do not. There is no try.

"The enemy will never attack where you are strongest...He will attack where you are weakest. If you do not know your weakest point, be certain, your enemy will." Sun Tzu
Silver Surfer
User ID: 1088204
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12/10/2010 10:02 AM
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Re: survival handbooks, medicine, general survival skills
Could any one provide me with links to manuals or handbooks that have all the information on raising your own garden, natural medicines etc. I'm looking to print some of these out and put them in a file cabinet for help maybe in the future to reference if the internet is not available. Thank you
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 1190713



This is all you will ever need OP
These books have everything you need! (Old School Rules)
FoxFire Series

Buy them all!

[link to www.foxfire.org]
[link to www.foxfire.org]
Lazy_Dog

User ID: 547537
United States
12/10/2010 10:04 AM

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Re: survival handbooks, medicine, general survival skills
you should have started this YEARS ago, hon.

There is SO much info, I have thick volumns of printed out and organized info, but the best place to start is any site dedicated to just survival.


If you haven't already, then start today. Today is better than tomorrow...
 Quoting: Luckystrike

I agree, today is much better, for there is DOOM tomorrow and Monday.
Luckystrike

User ID: 1041289
United States
12/10/2010 10:06 AM
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Re: survival handbooks, medicine, general survival skills
you should have started this YEARS ago, hon.

There is SO much info, I have thick volumns of printed out and organized info, but the best place to start is any site dedicated to just survival.


If you haven't already, then start today. Today is better than tomorrow...

I agree, today is much better, for there is DOOM tomorrow and Monday.
 Quoting: Lazy_Dog


Really? I always thought doom came on Tuesdays. Learn something new everyday...

Last Edited by Luckystrike on 12/10/2010 10:25 AM
Everyone needs to believe in something...I believe I'll have another beer.
Anonymous Coward (OP)
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12/10/2010 10:07 AM
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Re: survival handbooks, medicine, general survival skills
Yes, better late than never. Ill be sitting by the printer today for quite a while
Anonymous Coward
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12/10/2010 10:12 AM
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Re: survival handbooks, medicine, general survival skills
[link to www.wilderness-survival.net]
Anonymous Coward
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United Kingdom
12/10/2010 10:15 AM
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Re: survival handbooks, medicine, general survival skills
Yes, better late than never. Ill be sitting by the printer today for quite a while
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 1190713


Try to laminate them aswell if you can. Will take twice as long but it's worth the effor when you've got a neat little 380 page full-colour folder. They also sell quite well on ebay lolsign
Mercy143
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12/10/2010 10:20 AM
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Re: survival handbooks, medicine, general survival skills
Here is a thread with lots of information on survival and wild edible plants.
Thread: Survivalist: Edible Wild Plants Foraging & Uses Info @ GLP

I have this one bookmarked, it has lots of really good info. I hope this helps
Anonymous Coward
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12/10/2010 10:23 AM
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Re: survival handbooks, medicine, general survival skills
Here is a cut-n-paste from a prior thread, sorry no link I just put the info in a .txt file, but here ya go:



Rhubarb Plant Feb to Mar…3 feet in ea direction from plant…can be started from seed root divisions or cuttings, if starting from seed allow 6 to 8 weeks indoor growth..No harvest till 2nd season of growth, then for only 1-2 weeks..3rd season can harvest 1-2 months, after that harvest at will, DO NOT EAT LEAVES COMPOST…

Peppers Plant indoors 8 – 10 weeks before last frost, put in ground in Mar to early Apr…70 to 90 days till maturity..18-24 inches between plants 24-36 inches between rows green is early red is ripened…possible cross pollination between hot and sweet peppers…will effect the seed…

Lettuce Plant in Mar, start 4 to 6 weeks indoors before planting outside..1/8 to ¼ inch deep 6 to 8 inches apart in all directions grows good in cool weather, and shade, not hot…40 to 60 degree soil temp..plant in two week intervals for continuous harvesting, quick grower repeat a planting in fall…

Cabbage Plant in Mar, start 8 to 10 weeks indoors before planting in ground…likes high phosphorous ratio…plant shallow like lettuce, and space 12-18 inches apart, with rows being 18-24 inches apart..harvest 55-130 days can be cold, depending on rate of growth can be planted again in fall..

Zucchini Plant in March and in Late Aug…3 feet apart, harvest 35 to 50 days…1/2 to 1 inch deep 3 feet between rows…

Peas Plant Mid Mar to early Apr, plant in two week successions for continuous harvest…no cold…Dig furrow four inches deep cover seeds with only 1 to 1-1/2 inches of dirt, fill in to top as seedling grows.. Space seeds about 1 to 2 inches apart in the row. Thin seedlings to 2 inches apart when they are 4 inches high. Space rows about 24 to 30 inches apart. Bush varieties can be grown in wide rows, spacing the seeds only 2 inches apart in all directions. Pole types can be planted on both sides of the trellis support to double yield. Sow seeds at 2 to 3 week intervals, until mid-spring for continual harvest. Sow in mid-July for fall harvest.

Fava Beans Plant mid March to April..1 inch deep 5 to 6 inches apart….good winter crop as well..

Turnip/Rutebega…Plant in March and again in August…winter crop…plant 5 to 20 seeds per sq foot of row depending on yield you want..12 to 24 inches between rows…four to six inches apart when thinned…

Endive also Escarole…less bitter as a fall crop, does not handle heat well…plant 2-4 weeks indoors then put in ground March to April…1/2 inch deep, can be scattered…* inches between plants when grown..

Radish Plant March to April…1/4 to ½ inch deep..1 inch apart, thin to 4 inches apart as grown…20 to 30 days to harvest for some species…60 to 70 for others…can be cold, plant again in August..

Italian Dan. Plant in March and again in August…65 days to harvest, can handle some cold..

Purslane Don’t compost seed growth rampant, start from seed, very weedy give own area..Plant in March and Apr..60 days or so to harvest

Mache Plant in early spring, March to early Apr..deep soil and mulch, add sand to soil to help growth, cold plant..plant again in August…30 days to harvest or so…

Orach Plant in March, 1 inch deep and rows 2 feet apart, plants 18 to 24 inches apart, harvest 40 to 60 days…can eat leaves and sprigs…

Radicchio Plant in March, and again in August and inch or so deep and 10 to 12 inches apart 80 days to harvest...cut at root to harvest…note: like chicory root…can be used as coffee substitute, but can affect vision long term…also root good for kicking out digestive worms in humans and animals…

Corn Plant Apr 20th thru May 15th..(earlier if possible) one and a half inch deep and 4 to 6 inches apart..think to 1 foot apart at 3 to 4 inches growth..harvest 20 days after silk appears..no less than four rows, by four rows, 2.5 to 3 foot apart..must cross pollinate..58 to 60 degree soil..can also be planted in small mounds…4 to seeds per mound, space two feet apart in all directions…thin to 2 or 3 plants per hill once grow up 4 inches or so…60 to 80 days for some varietys, 80 to 100 for others… family of five.. 400 foot of rows.

Soybeans Plant Apr 19th thru 28th..as late as May 25th…approx 1 to 1.5 inches deep and 18 to 24 inches apart…

Onions Plant mid April to May 1 inch deep 4 inches apart rows 16 to 24 inches apart…2 to 4 pounds of seed per acre…or can plant through rootings of other onions..

Squash Summer squash 50 to 65 days to mature…Winter squash 60 to 100 days…(cucumbers, pumpkin, melons, squash) Plant in mounds 1 to 2 feet in diameter mid Apr to mid May…2 to 3 feet apart no more than 2 to 3 plants per mound think out weaker plants…winter squash (thicker skinned) can be planted again in july or so for late harvest…leave approx 3 inch stem at harvest on fruit…

Tomatoes Plant mid Apr to mid May…15 inches apart if staked or caged…24 to 36 inches apart if not, leave a good two to three feet between rows, harvest when red or ripened, 54 – 80 days depending on variety.

Chard Plant in April, thickly,…1 to 2 inches apart and rows 3 feet apart, 1 to 2 inches deep, 45 to 65 days to harvest…eat leaves and stalks…(also swiss chard) plant again in August..

Greenbean pole beans, six to eight seeds per teepee, plant six to eight inches apart.(one for ea string)..pole will continually produce……Bush beans, plant in 2 week successions4 to 6 inches apart 1 to 2 inches deep..50 to 60 days to harvest…

Kale can do cold like chard1 to 2 inches deep leaving 12 to 18 inches apart from plants, two to three feet between rows…Plant in April, again in July to Aug..

Broccoli Plant mid April..1/4 inch deep, 12 inches between plants 50 to 100 days to harvest depending on environment and type…50-60 degree soil temp family of five, 25 plants 4 to 6 lbs in a ten foot row…

Beets Plant mid April..6 to 12 seeds per foot, ½ inch deep...six inches between plants, two foot rows…40-70degree soil temp..45 to 60 days to harvest…note: for better taste harvest when shoots are young, 1.5 to 3 inches tall…green tops can be harvested after 6 inches tall…15 lbs for a 10 foot row…family of five..50ft row..

Brusselsprouts …2 to 3 seeds per foot, ..24 inches between plants ¼ inch depth…60-70 degree soil temp..Plant in mid April.. 80 to 120 days to harvest from seed…80 to 90 days from transplant, can start indoors 4 to 6 weeks before putting outside…4 to 6 lbs for a ten foot row 25 plants for family of five..harvest from bottom to top when buds approx 1 inch…anywhere from 30 days after planted all the way to kill frost…

Cauliflour one per foot, 1/16 to ¼ inch depth start indoors 4 to 6 weeks before taking out in mid April..50-60 degree soil temp, can withstand cold to an extent…50 to 100 days from transplant..30 plants for family of five…

Carrotts Plant in mid May…1/4 to ½ inch deep18 to 36 inches between rows…4 to 5 inches between plants…2lbs per acre for seed…stores well with onions and potatoes at 32 degrees…harvest 60 to 80 days after planting…if fast enough can plant again in July out of heat…

Celery is a long crop, plant May, soil temps no less than 50degrees needs a good 5 to 6 months to grow, can take some of first frost if protected..start five to six weeks before ground time indoors transplant seedlings…or do seed 1/2inch deep and a few inches apart, thin out weaker plants….plant eight inches apart once grown, or thin to…and rows being 24 to 30 inches between…does not like hot so keep shady some..

Potatoes Plant May to June..no more than two years in same field..prepare soil nov dec time…mounds six to eight inches deep 3 to 4 feet in diameter,..four to five seeds per mound..rows 15 inches apart at least… every 4 to 5 inches of growth, recover with dirt,…do twice at least…flowers when potatoes are growing, flowers stop, harvest 2 to 3 weeks later….

Watermelon indoor start 3 to 4 weeks before planting…one seed every 24 to 36 inches, plant 1 to 2 inches deep in mid May…soil temp 68-75 degrees…approx 80 days to harvest..sound slap for ripeness…high not done, low too ripe, medium just right..20 plants for a family of five…

Strawberries plant sooner than May if weather permits…can plant by seed, or cuttings, root divisions…plant rows 36 to 48 inches apart…everbearing fruit or June bearing, will harvest for couple of months through summer..ever bearing will harvest bigger yield at end of season if you pinch back the flowers till late in season…

Eggplant start indoors 4 to 6 weeks before taking out in mid May…transplant with first true set of leaves…1/4 inch depth..18 inches between plants 70 degree soil temp…75 to 90 days to mature…3 to 6 per plant….20 plants for a family of five…

Spinach ½ inch depth…4inches between plants…60-70 degree soil temp, plant in mid May…40 to 70 days till harvest..60 ft row for family of five…

Garlic plant after first good frost of autum, again if late in early early spring…needs the cold sit to bud…one inch down and four to five inches apart..(cover with ten inches of mulch during winter)once tops brown pull em, allow to dry for one week…will store well at cold temp..

Asparagus From a Crown from seed dealer..if growing from seed allow one extra year…will continue to grow back year after year for several years…plant one year old crowns, in Apr to May can harvest April through June next year…plant crowns in 8 to 9 inch deep trench, cover with dirt as grows, till reaches top of trench.. harvest between five and eight inches tall….let turn to seed at end of season…

Cereals and Grains

Wheat Plant in spring, April to May harvest August to Sept…Plant in winter, mid. August to October, harvest mid May or July………Seed per foot rather than pound per acre….30-50 seeds per sq foot, optimum 30-35 seeds per sq foot …….Also can plant by pound, 80-90 lbs per acre or 100’ by 100’ plot..18-22 lbs….spread, or plant shallow…
Harvesting wheat starts with cutting it with a Scythe or sharp knife….Stook it..by wrapping it in bundles roughly 8 to 10 inches in diameter to ..Threshing..(open stook, beating it with a Flail till heads come off..remove straw..put through coarse Sieve..)…Chaff…throw in wind over a tarp or smooth sheet..wind blows Chaff away…yield approx one quart per Stook……..the chaff and Straw when separated can be combined with your game/feed corn and rye...even adding later leftover hops or barley parts and the leftovers from beer making…..

Hops Plant as root or rhizome no later than May…grows viney up to 25ft 120 days of frost free growth till harvest..(1 to 2.5 lbs flowers per plant) …..Plant root buds point up 2 inches in soil 3 to 5 feet apartonce one foot long wrap clockwise on trellis systemTrim after you get a light sticky feeling on flowers from pollen….bury vines after harvest for next seasons growth….Note: (male and female parts…seeds used to produce new variety, new strain….the roots and rhizomes will grow back every year…don’t know if it possible to separate males or not…)

Barley/Oats Plant April 27th to May 27th..spring plant fall harvest..fall plant June harvest…like wheat…Use as food for livestock, alcohol, malting for beer, cereals (with oats or other grains) can roast it to malt to the color you want……Kernel cracked, seed can be milled and sieved out or blown out…milled powder can be used in cereals as well as used as a thickening agent

Rye Plant early spring, April to May, can harvest in approx 80 days….can plant in winter as well, no later than October 15th again eighty days….good grazing plant…can put in pasture sixty to eighty days before moving livestock…no lower than 39 degrees outside….can throw around spread style or plant very shallow…

Herbs This section is a brief about Herbs, noting some of the ones that can grow in cold and by seed, but with herbs sometimes its best to get cuttings or prestarted plants from a nursery if you cant start them yourself indoors…

Rosemary Reoccurs in warm weather areas, otherwise can die off from winter temps before next season…plant 2 feet apart can be started from seed indoors up to 4-6 weeks early, harvest throughout its growth..

Parsley Start plants indoors 6 to 8 weeks prior to planting, put in ground in March…This is a re-seeder..grows like a weed so give it its own space….

Thyme this can be grown from seed, grow up to a year and harvest little, divide roots next April and spread, Harvest from July on…Typically grown in root divisions…

Sage Start indoors 6to 8 weeks prior to ground planting in March…can sustain some cold weather..Plant 2 foot apart in each direction from plant…cut plant down before hard winter comes will regrow if protected with mulch…

Mint Start indoors 6 to 8 weeks to planting, put in ground March to April, space 12 to 18 inches apart and cut back at end of season…this is an overtaker, give it space….will return bigger each season..same goes for Catnip…

Basil Plant late March, approx ½ inch deep and two feet apart in each direction…does no tlike cold, can start indoor 4 to 6 weeks prior….Keep seed….

Dill Start 4 to 6 weeks indoors from seed, will spread, self seeder, give space…not much cold, start March to April..

Coriander/Cilantro From seed, start March to April, spread thinly and plant continually for multiple crops…self seeder, give space and keep from getting too hot, heat makes it Bolt (give seed) is good cold plant.

Oregano Start 4 to 6 weeks indoors before transplanting in ground in March to April, not a cold liker, and will tend to get woody after 2 to 4 years so keep seeds…(no fertilizer)

Pepper Plant grows 3 to 4 years before first fruit, lot of water and viney…can plant from seed, but germination can take a long time, several weeks even…better if possible to get cuttings..

Caraway Plant from seed, does not like cold, probably better in greenhouse environment, grow two years before harvesting seed, grow one year before harvesting root… let propogate can eat leaves and roots as well…plant for just that even…harvest seed for more planting and spice, eat root…

Poppy Spring to Summer planting, can be from seed started indoors 4 to 6 weeks prior to ground in Apr to May, early June…Flowers July to Sept, does not like cold…

Cumin Can grow from seed, start indoors 4 to 6 weeks, doesn’t like too cold…plant outdoors with sea of green method (nuts to butt) Harvest when plant browns, cut heads off and dry…

Tobacco Plant March, to April, from cuttings if possible otherwise start seed indoors, not sure how long however…but can be harvested in approx 10 weeks when flowers…does not like cold but can be grown for short season here in Michigan…Plant multiple plantings of this….

Coffee Order green cuttings…plant indoors, like greenhouse..needs warmth.. altitude produces better fruits…if starting by seed this can take 2 to 6 months to germinate..plant then transplant again..cherries will come after 2 to 3 years for harvest….(Arabica variety is self pollinating)

Winter Plants and Flowers

Datura/Moonflower Plant in April…approx 24 weeks to flower…nocturnal flowering, very pretty…harvest seed pods later in year, before too wet from season change, can mold, but will repropogate itself…

Good winter flowers that can survive below 45 degrees…..
Amaryllis, Azalea, xmas cactus, Freesia, Hyacinth, Impatiens,Larkspur, Nasturium, Memesia, Pansy, Primrose, Snapdragons, Sweet Pea…..
Good winter crops…Beets, Broccoli, Brussel sprouts, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflour, Celery, Cilantro, Fava beans, Garlic, Kale, Lettuce, Parsley, Radish, Spinach, Swiss chard, Turnips, Parsnips best when pulled in January if protected good….(keep in mind they can still die from a good cold frost, so you need to help make it possible for them to reach that last harvest, possibly three to four frosts or snows in….this is how

Keep track of last frost dates from year to year….start looking around October 15th, look for cold front in jet streams coming from north west…usually about ten days before first frost….first kill frost can usually come between Oct 28th and Nov 14th…Utilizing things like small green houses or cold frames can help keep plants alive longer into first winter months…sometimes even a thick layer of mulch can help protect them long enough to get to harvest and remember always water less in winter….
Cold Frame Like a wooden box with high sides, anything to keep the cold wind and frost/snow off…can even use tires for cold boxes…just make some sort of hinged windowed door that can open and close over the plants…Keep in mind any good winter crops can be planted early in spring, early April even keeping them in the same manner, starting them indoors 4 weeks prior…just take off the cold frames or cover when warms up…some good cold frame crops are…
Arugula, Chard, Endive, Escarole, Italian Dandelion, Lettuce, Parsley, Radish, Scallion Spinach…

Mulching Sawdust, Bark, Leech Nitrogen...Newspaper, Peatmoss mix…till into soil after winter, mulched soil must be tilled…mulch some plants between 4 and 8 inches thick…

Green Manures ..Some plants can leech soil if grown more than two years, most plants shouldn’t be grown more than one season in the same soil without rotation.(see next para) so it’s a good idea to have some good quick growing (still edible) greens to re-till/plow into the soil come.soil defrost…
Plants from the Legume family add nitrogen to soil..cut off tops and roots added to compost are helpful as well…alfalfa, Austrian field pea, white clover, Alsike clover, Crimson clover, Red clover, vetch types fava beans winter peas cowpeas…all of these can be grown into winter and returned into the soil come spring to re-add nutrients to the soil….

Rotating Crops onions carrots and potatoes good rotaters, same with garlic….growing squash in rows of corn can help balance eachother…flipping corn with soybean as well….can rotate corn also with tomatoes, lettuce, and beans…always rotate crops, no more than two years max in one location…
Anonymous Coward
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12/10/2010 10:24 AM
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Re: survival handbooks, medicine, general survival skills
And a bit more:

Fruit Trees..

Grapes Usually transplanted with cuttings, plant cuttings with a distance of 96inches between plants, can take a few years to get good fruit yields, and take up to one to two years to even bear fruit…youll want to put in the fence/trellis system after the plants have grown a good amount, Plant cuttings March to April

Blueberries Again planted with cuttings from other bushes, can take a good year to grow from seed to replant…blueberries are like a bush, so plant them at least 48inches between plants in each direction..will produce fruit in 3 to 4 years from planting…Plant in March to April as soon as soil warms...

Peaches Planting from seed is 3 to 4 years to fruit..plant 5 feet in diameter on all sides…self pollinating…if planting cuttings, plant when at least 4 inches tall, 5’ apart in rows…can plant 1year old trees at 2 to 3 feet tall…..plant in winter or early spring while dormant

Apples Plant at least two types, will not self pollinate, do not plant more than 40 feet apart or will not pollinate..plant as trees in field, 3 to 4 feet high and stake deep…small to med trees plant 6-8 ft apart…bigger trees plant 14-18 feet apart…(golden red delicious and gala have early to mid harvest…..fuji, breaburm, rome…mid to late harvest….gala empire both mid season ….pollinate with variety that shares similar harvest point…seed will be good and bred for an early to mid season harvest..) planting from seed would take some nurturing, growing indoors even if weather too volatile…transfer outdoors once right size….

Cherries Regional…soil must have good drainage..for tarts plant 14 to 18 feet apart, with rows 16 to 20 feet apart…for sweets…plant 16 to 20 feet apart with rows 22 to 26 feet, prune back as they grow, train how you want them…plant fall to winter with good 2 to 3 foot tree staked in ground…will be a few years before bearing fruit..

Plums Plant fall to early spring, 4 to 5 years will bear fruit…space apart like peaches, a good 5 to 6’ around every plant, if in rows, keep a good 12 to 14 feet apart…fruit produces over a month or so..thin in May and again in July when fruits half sized…

Pears 5yrs to fruit for dwarf variety…6 to 8 years for normal tree to fruit..plant in winter or early spring when dormantcan yield 1 bushel 1st year of fruit with dwarf variety….can yield 5 to 10 bushels with a normal sized tree…not a self pollinator, must have two varietys, and no farther than 40 feet apart or pollination may not occur….keep them a good 6 to eight feet of space around them with 10 to 12 foot rows between, plant as a small tree, 2 to 3 foot…can take cuttings from new sprigs and young growth from under trees in beginning of year..as for any tree…but to do by seed might want to start indoors for first year before putting out to the elements…

For any of the citrus variety of trees, the oranges, lemons, grapefruits tangarines, even to mangos and avocados can be grown indoors with coffee and tobacco given a big enough greenhouse…keep in mind the indoor growing can yield you crops year round, instead of having to rely soley on canning or preserving your harvests somehow…always store your potatoes and onions, garlic, the root/tuber type fruits…in a cool area, but not below 32degrees…an underground storage area is a good idea for these kinds of plants, as long as it doesn’t get too cold…if its too warm can propogate mold and mildew so underground could help keep a constant temperature at the right depth, maybe even going as far as adding a fresh air vent pipe going to the surface you can open and close…storing the grain and corn should be kept in a cool place as well, and always keep in mind storing in a sealed container or building is a good idea to keep out rodents and any other unwanted pests..




..................................


Exit Atrophy II


Basics to things we might have forgotten, this is no science, just an accumulation of things and ideas for surviving and self sufficiency….living green and self sufficient in a modern world…planting seeds for new ideas from a forgotten time…

Cement, Mortar, and Concrete

Portland Cement for instance is made up of a mix of gypsum, calcium, silicon, aluminum and iron…
Another mix… Limestone, Shells, Chalk or Marl with Shale, Clay, slate..or Blast furnace slag, silica sand, Iron ore…ideas for ingredients…a recipie is just that…and can be tweaked for your own uses like bread…
Concrete Water, Cement, Sandstone…
Sand, Gravel, Concrete, Aggregate Lime……additives are silica or gypsum….obviously all these ingredients are ground or pulverized somehow, but again this is just a manual of ideas, to make your own recipe…

Mortar basic is 3 parts sand 1 part masonry cement…2gal water on top mix, add up to one more gallon… also…..Hydrated Lime, Sand, and Cement…
So in conclusion….. Earth…Sand…Water..

Homes and Shelters sod homes are made by cutting strips of wet grass root out of ground, (using horse with cutter or sod cutter machine) then cut into blocks and stacking for walls…a thatch roof could be added..the problem with these is all manner of varmint and reptile would love to sleep with you, and over time in warmer weather the sun can dry out the sod, making for dust clumps falling on your head at night while sleeping….however this type of home was used and built temporarily during the homesteading of the early days of this country…
Shantys Basic frame, no foundation or rock…planked up and wrapped in tar paper or sealed canvas…again these homes were used quite often in the early days of America, they were the first portable homes…when the assessor would come to your land claim to make sure you had a house on your homestead you could put one of these up quickly, often with only one window…some families that shared neighboring properties were known to pick up the house and take it to their familys property before the assessor would get there and rebuild it so it looked as if they had a home as well…the down fall to these is they can blow apart in high winds and are not real insulated from the cold. But wioth a good woodstove and the right care, im sure could be quite cozy…

Log Homes building a log home does not require nails or screws…it’s a process of notching out logs and connecting/stacking them together locking in the notches…it is a big task but possible given the right area to put one up in a few days with help…after assembling however you need to Chink…the gaps..which is a process of filling them in by jamming sticks and woodchips into gaps, then filling remaining gaps with a mix of …Earth, Sand and Water to your liking…with the chimneys be carefull to do a good layer of this chinking between two log areas, then cover the entire inside of the chimney with the mortar mix, coating all the wood several good inches thick in a series of drying and curing steps over a few days…when building a log home it’s a good idea to have a good rock or cement foundation for the wall logs to build and rest upon, keeping the ground away from the bottom logs allows for rotting to be prevented…

Basic lean-tos and shelters can be made easily and fast in a pinch…it only takes a good forty min to an hour to get yourself a place out of the wind and cold, with a fire going…Keep in mind its basic, don’t put too much thought into it….utilize fallen or dead trees and fallen limbs as much as you can…build onto the larger trees in the area using the main support as the trunk even…keep it small unless you have to build big..a small place keeps in heat…good cover and a thick area of thatch or small sticks bundled and weaved together can work great at keeping out wind and giving you the peace of mind you need to get through the night..even if all you have is a tarp, it can be easily strung with fallen trees or the low limbs of a pine or other tree and tied up, staked down with other broken sticks…

Gunpowder Gunpowder dates back to 9th century China when they used it for fireworks and celebrations…the gunpowder here is only good for that type of low grade thing..keep in mind this is dangerous and trying to mix a fine powder or a more volatile powder could result in you blowing your ass up or burning your house down, so don’t be stupid…
Sulfur, charcoal, and salt peter..(potassium nitrate) sugar can substitute charcoal…most charcoal they used came from willow tree, burnt grapevine, hazel, elder, laurel, and pine cones… carefully ground together it was called serpentine…sometimes people would lmix with wine or water to transport safer, then screen out and dry in clumps, makes good fire starter…..basics…fuel (charcoal) oxidizer (saltpeter or nitrate) and sulfur…Ingredients mixed freely, almost to a molecular level and mixed together at the same time..get a good quick clean burn with fineness of mix….again this is for pyro grade, not propellant grade…but again…modification of recipes is what its about, tweaking…ex..add copper filings for fountain of colored sparks…mag dust or aluminum dust for flash powders…
Windmills and Milling


Basic idea of dutch grain mill…
Heres one print below for the gears and interworkings near the fans..cant read print but just gives the idea..



This picture above is a plan for a hand grinder, using a rotating grinding plate against a standing grinding plate..can be used for corn, wheat, etc…

This is an Archemedes Screw…this is the same desing found in combines and snowblowers…it can pull or push a medium, even water..it uses a hand crank attatched to the screw, its housed in a tube..(does not have to be air tight)…this idea..can be used to pull water up out of a lower field or valley for instance…hooked up to a wind mill can be very useful for pumping out a flooded field or area…
Picture below of a windmill being used with a hand pump to water livestock, ….


If you have a tapped well, and hand pump, you can utilize the screw or windmill to pull and pump the water out into a large tub, or water tower….the water tower can have a type of sump pump switch off like the guts of a toilet…so as to not overfill or flow…pvc tubes can be run from tower and gravity fed down into either livestock wells, filtration systems and irrigation for crops…think about it…a few towers, collecting pumped and rain water can be of great service to you and your homestead…
Watermills along rivers are also a great way to grind your flour and corn…stone wheels are usually big and could take a long time to make, hand grinding of the wheat and corn may be done as well though, the Indians didn’t have mills or anything like that…hell maybe they did who knows, but grinding by hand can be tedious, but also can be easier to just grind fresh what you need…have a grinding party for building up surplus…lol.. some food for thought before I’m done with this section…using a car alternator on a windmill…or making your own coil wrapped magnet and figure it out…it can be done again I’m not a scientist or engineer, just a thinker, and planting some old seeds…that’s all…a book of ideas, keep that in mind..

Curing Meats


Salting meat cover completely saturate with salt, repeat rub every seven days or so if needed…allow 2days per pound of meat to cure…but not less..than 25 days…4lbs salt, 1.5 lbs sugar, brown or white, mix and rub…soak in water before consumption…can be salted then packed in barrel and layered, salted meat…salt…meat salt meat salt…for several layers for storage

Smoking meat good brine solution….1/4 cup kosher salt, ¼ cup packed brown sugar, 4 cups of water..wisk together, poiur mix over fish or meat and let sit several hours to overnight submerged, add personal preferences…..smoke at 80 to 90 degrees in smoke house using good wood for approx two days..dont use resin type wood like pine…thin smoke as good as thin smoke, but leave room for smoke to move around the meat…70 to 80 degrees to continue aging the meat once done…to stop aging put in cold storage wrapped up…up to 6 months for ham/pork…1 month or so (not too much more) for fish….and forever for beef…..

Building a small smoke house or salt shack is as easy as building an extra shelter, the only diference is with the smoke shack you want to have some kind of ventilation for airflow to continue through…make sure to put large flat roof beams across your walls for good strength to hang your meat from…
Any small outbuildings built can be utilized for storage, smoke house/salt house, still or wine/beer making…keep in mind in the days of self sufficiency preserved meats, alcohols and wines were better than money….being able to provide things for an area others cant get anymore could become necessity to live if something wer to happen with our fragile money system…having those outbuildings for things like this is like having banks in your back yard…

Spit Cooking and Ground Cooking Ideas..

Roasting Goat allspice, sage and white wine…Salt, Pepper, Oregano, Thyme and Lemon…
Tie the ends of the goat and the spine to the spike your cooking with over the fire…this is for a goat approx 13 to 15 lbs dressed..start fire 7am (hypothetically speaking) get a good hot bed of thick coals, big as goat at least…start spit 30inches or so above the fire, reduce to 15 toward halfway point…cook 4 to 5 hours …bathe in oil and lemon juice and oregano blend constantly…low and slow…shoulders and thighs take longest so pile up coal bed at both ends of the animal…
Pig Hole (usually pig scalded or dehaired before roasting spit or otherwise, leave the skin on..)
Hotter in ham and shoulder, cooler near loin…when roasting spray with water for flare ups in the flames..roast pig to a overall temperature of 160 degrees farenheit… pigholes should be dug3’ deep 30 inches wide at least, build up a fire of coals at least 12 inches deep, 3 to 4 hours of fire prep, get coal bed and wood burnt to nearly double the size of original pit…level coals and cover in approx 2inches of pea gravel…wire mesh of sorts or grill on top of rocks…put pig on mesh, cover with something like galvanized roofing or sheet of metal supported by four posts(metal) , if not then all green leaves real thick..(real thick) then cover with approx a foot of dirt over whole thing, bury it…cook about 10 hours and undig carefully, serve there or take apart and retray….

Rabbit and Squirrell Ive cooked some of the best squirrel ive ever had over an open fire on a grill top camping one day….we had no spices, just skinned it and washed it off after it was all gutted..we layed it over a hot bed of coals just slightly bigger than its body, and cooked it for approx 45 min..(was a big ass squirrel) picked I tapart with our fingers and enjoyed…rabbit can be done much in the same way, with a spit or with a grate over coals, the whole idea is low and slow…any animal is thicker in the shoulders and hips…any of those areas just make sure are a bit hotter underneath, and don’t be afraid to get it a bit done, don’t want to risk parasites if your trying to survive or live off the grid…however if you do..chicory coffee..(refer to plant section) can help get rid of tape worms…lol
As far as cooking roasting anything in the wild outdoors or otherwise its just good to remember, the bigger it is the longer itll have to cook, low and slow brings tender meat, juicy…too hot and cooking for speed can bring a toughness you don’t want on your teeth…just cook it good and have fun with it…farming and hunting your meat is the cleanest and safest meat you can eat, especially if your feeding it…at least you know what its eating…deer and rabbit are some of the leanest meats in the world, but keep in mind too we need a certain amount of that fat in our nutrient regime…trying to live off straight rabbit can kill you without even knowing it, it can deprive you of essential oils and fats the body needs so mix it up…

Butter Cream separates from the milk, take cream..(milk fat) skim off…shake or whip vigourously till churned, add salt to improve consistency and taste as well as shelf life, can be done with both cows and goats…etc..

Breads Biscuts and Flatbread

Basic Biscuts 2cups white flour..2.5 tsp baking powder..1/3 cup shortening..3/4 cup milk...1/2 tsp salt mix flour, baking powder, and salt, cut in shortening, add milk and blend..knead out and cut ¼ inch thick…bake 475degrees 12 to 15 min…….can add garlic, roasted garlic, cheese, corn bread, other spices, and sugar make it your own…

Beer Bread Easy as hell….3 cups self rising flour, 1 twelve ounce can of beer, add sugar other spices to taste if you want, but that’s it…bake it at 350 degrees for 25 to 40 minutes, check periodically toward end, when its done its done…(also good yeast bait, more on that later.)

Corn Fritters 1 ¼ cup of flour…1 ¼ tsp baking powder…1 tsp salt, mix 2 eggs and ¾ cup of milk mix…..blend with dry mix and mix in one can of corn slightly crushed for flavor, mix batter up and deep fry in fat or grease in batches at about 375 degrees, flip once or twice, remove when brown and floating, cooks fast…

Tortillas 3 tbs of shortening..1tsp salt…2 cups flour..3/4 cup of water…sift drys..cut shortening..add water… roll as thin as possible and bake on slightly greased grittle or pan, turn to brown…

Flatbread 1 ½ cups of water…4 tbs olive oil…4 cups of flour…2 tsp of salt…2 tsp dry active yeastmix together into dough, let rest approx one hour…toss like pizza, roll thin and bake, bakes quickly in hot oven…makes low rising thick flat bread, good for travel and camping…

Basic Noodles 1 egg beaten…1/2 tsp salt…2 tbsp milk (top milk) 1 cup flour…(only as much as you need though) roll thin, let stand aprox 20 min..cut into ½ inch strips and allow to dry for 2 hours…

Campers all purpose baking mix…8cups flour…1/2 cup powdered milk…5 tbsp baking powder…4 tsp salt…can measure out, mix together then divide into different bags….also a basic bread for camping…used in next few recipies…

Campers Biscuts 2 cups of Campers all purpose baking mix…4 tbsp of butter, cut pieces…3/4 cup of water…bake in dutch oven 15 to 18 minutes till done….

Fried corn meal biscuts 2 cups corn meal…1 tsp salt…1 to 1 ½ cups hot water…2 to 3 tbsp of butter…grease pan with butter, mix rest…scoop small amounts of mix into greased pan, cook on each side till brown…8 to 10 minutes…

Dutch Oven Bread 2 cups campers baking mix…1/2 cup powdered milk…3/4 cup water…1 egg…3 tbsp of butter…spice..grease dutch oven with buter, get up on sides as well…mix dough, put in pan with lid, bake approx 15min or until brown on top…

Corn Bread ½ cup corn meal…1/2 cup campers baking mix…1/2 cup powdered milk…2tbsp sugar…1/2 cup water…3 tbsp butter…2 tsp of lemon juice…mix all but water lemon juice and butter….combine dry mix with water and lemon juice….melt butter and grease sides and bottom of pan…put mix into dutch oven bake 10 to 15 min toothpick inserted should come out clean…

Yeast and catching it

Yeast will grow in a sugar solution…It even appears naturally on grape skins and in the air..Older cultures would mix together their dough, then let it sit outside open to the elements for a period of time, collecting yeast right from the air around them…a good yeast bait is all it takes to get the little buggers to come to you and start doing their work….one good yeast bait is …1/2 cup water and ½ cup of flour..the guy I got this from let it sit out uncovered for seven days, capped it last two days….then used as a starter dough…..another good way…3 ½ cups flour…1 cup water…1/2 tsp salt….1/2 cup of the starter above, bake for 20 to 30 min at 450 degrees….
The recipe for Beer Bread is another good yeast catcher, utilizing the already occurring yeast in the beer with the self rising flour makes for a great medium to propogate on…..other ways yeast has been caught is literally by collectin the mold rings of old bread…some prisoners who would make their own pruno in jail needed yeast…wo they would save up hot dog buns and mahburg buns, scraping off the crust till they had enough..the crust itself is a yeast attractor as well….
You can get yeast from your beer barm as well, don’t know how this would work, if youd dry it out or what, but the barm from the first batch is used in the next, take some out, let it sit and try it, all u can do…


Natural forge or Kiln

There were some older cultures in Europe that there have been found forges built into hillsides facing oncoming winds, they would run up a lage pipe to help capture the wind using it as a bellows and channeling it into the bottom of the fire..you can adjust the amount of wind with a valve or tap type turning device….Smelting ore outside is different from using gas, doing it outside without the right hardwoods can be tough to build up a hot enough fire to smelt anything beyond the raw iron or copper you might be lucky enough to find…Ive had luck melting pennies in a soup can while camping before so Id imagine given the right kind of metal in surplus..(wheel weights, pennies, copper pipes or tubing..) you could melt most anything with this set up…
Kilns on the other hand were a different type of beast..its basically like a roasting oven..the convection of the heat you need for a sustained time…you can build a good kiln out of thick mud, or clay….leave a space to put your hot coals and log fire under it, and if your good you can make a clay shelf to lay inside to stack more things..this would be used for malting barley as well as drying and curing clay rope pots and the like…
For mold ideas, different grades of mixed hard packed sand can work, but if not available, you could chisel a shape out of hard rock or stone…something small like nail molds, or arrow heads…just use your brain and you can come up with many uses…fish hooks aren’t a very hard mold to do at all, just pour off carefully…spearpoints, slugs for blackpowder gun…nails of different sizes, needles, crochet needles…even hinges and hinge pins…cotter pins…all these things can be made in the wild with rock molds or sand molds..

Pressing Oil…


Hand Press Pressing your own oil can be a great experience…from sunflower oil, to hempseed oil..to vegetable and olive oils…they can be a necessity for good cooking and uses around the home…Olives aren’t really the type of thing I expect anyone to grow, but if you do then great, Im not getting into it here..the idea is basic…if its in a shell, take off the shell and press the seed…like sunflower for instance…this oil can be mixed with a few crushed nuts and berries and made into a veggie type patty…here is an example of making a hand press, with a hydrolic jack…
You can see from the picture, it is a jack inside of a steel frame someone made, but upon closer look, the jack is sitting on top of a can of holes..inserted into the can from the bottom is a crusher, a shaft of sorts that will withstand the pressures of the jack…the oil runs down the shaft pipe and gathers into a bowl with a filter or cheese cloth to strain it out before it runs through and down the bowl into a jar… easy enough…you can also press oil by hand, much like a can crusher with a shovel handle or lever, use your head and utilize the ideas given…
Some presses are made of stones, or stone wheels that crush and press at the same time whatever fruit or nut you want, but these wheels are usually very big and very heavy…unless yourlucky, finding a good enough stone for a wheel, then using it..is pretty far fetched…but the basic principle can apply to a smaller scale…using a round stone to crush and something to scrape off…filter the sludge once done…some nuts or seeds must be soaked/cooked, sometimes both…from there once cleaned can be pressed..if your not having luck with something try that, cooking it or soaking it first…ex..of yield…sunflowers..oilseed..net 1oz for every lbs of seed…confectioners variety yield 3 or more oz of oil per pound of seed….

Charcoal
Burning wood in presence of too little oxygen….use charcoal for slow burning fires, making bricks, kilns stills etc… Dig Trench foot or two deep, lay with wood and burn..once it gets going good, cover with corrugated iron or metal..cover with earth and let sit...dig up and shovel out coal in a couple days…another way I saw it done was by building a large ten by eight brick dome, with very little holes for oxygen…can build one coal kiln in one day…lay bricks in approw eight to ten feet diameter and build up to dome, close top and leave little door in side, fill with wood to ceiling and let burn, close holes around it to smother and snuff oxygen, shovel out coal next day or two once burned out…this type of coal can be used as trade, and used in ovens for cooking fires for roasting, or just for heat…

Paint
Okay this is a bit weird, found it on accident and had to add it…sour milk, hydrated lime and pigment of earth…. Lime and Sour Milk must neutralize eachother…use litmus paper to get this if possible…red more lime, blue more sour, till balanced……..Take pigment of eart….Earth color…clay, rock, dirt whatever color in earth you can find.....ex dirt color, or red clay…take medium..(dirt, clay) put in pot and boil repeatedly, each time in new water several times over..when done strain, and lay out sediment to dry in warm place…pulverize as finely as you can and store….can add this pigment dust to sour lime mix….there were pigment traders back in the day who would do this with various earth pigments and get them ready for trade or sell to others…specializing in making color pigment dust for folks who wanted something besides white, or off white to yellowish paint…lol

Soap
Basic soap is made from Fat and Lye….is a combo of an acid (fat) and an alkaline (lye)…
Making Lye drill holes in bottom of barrel …lay a good layer of Straw on bottom…fill barrel with wood ash from stove or firepit…pour bucketful of cold water over ash…a bucketful every 3 to 4 hours….the 1st 3rd and 5th day….water that works its way out the bottom collect, will be Lye…
Melt Fat slowly, strain into cold water and skim off top fo water…warm fat again..let cool to lukewarm…warm lye and mix till honey like as it runs off spoon….make borax solution….(add 1 ¼ pints water…8 tbsp Borax…dash of ammonia)……To a half gallon of soap mix….add 1 pint of borax solution just made…opt ½ cup of ammonia…mix again….can add in lavender, peanut oil, sunflower oil, or other flowers/herbs….pour into molds, cover and cool…..you got soap…might take your skin off, but hell at least your clean…lol

Again I want to reiterate…This is no how to book, this is not a perfect science or diy adventure….this is a basic manual of ideas to generate thought for the self sufficient mind and person who wants to live green and self sufficienly in this modern world…I by no means endorse these acts or projects, however all of this information has come from online sources and from several books in my collection..read and use at own risk…
Shine, Wine, Hard Cider and Beer

.M.A.C Mad Ass Champange….(The kind I make) 4 cups sugar…two packets of active dry yeast..(2tsp)…4 quarts of liquid juice/water…Condoms or Balloons…(non lubricated no spermicide..red box trojans) basic theory….sugar plus yeast equals two things…co2 and alcohol…
I take a large stock pot and heat 4 quarts of juice, like Meijer apple juice….heat to 120 – 130 degrees no more…while heating….blend four cups sugar and two packets yeast together…(I have a 1 gallon wine jug, but theres always a little more, so I divide up the sugar between the glass jug and one of the empty 2 quart jugs of juice….eye ball it…) once juice heated, I funnel it into the bottles….place balloon or condom over top and tie on with rubberband or twine so it wont blow off…shake up…Let this sit, (shaking occasionally) for two days…within first day condoms will expand exceptionally…if one pops just replace it….take off condoms, (pop em) …mix up an additional1 cup sugar 1 packet yeast together, now pour this into both bottles..(big one gets more, little one less…however be ready with next two condoms cause adding this to the bottles is like adding vinegar and baking soda, itll foam up quick…Ive rocketed condoms into the ceiling trying to get them on..) retie new condoms…let sit another two days…then filter off and rebottle in your jugs…keep in fridge… I haven’t had any of this go bad as of yet, the longest its stayed out was a little over a week….dont use citrus, and watermelon..is iffy….(using the condoms without holes in the tips…allows for the gasses to stay trapped in the bottle, slightly carbonating the drink…)
Filtering I cut up approx six two litre bottles at the top of the lable, and invert top into bottle, place coffee filter in and pour…rinse out filters a good half hour in to clean out the fine yeast and to not go through a ton of filters, takes approx hour to hour and a half to filter through….This is a concept…if you don’t have juice, you can use water, will still work…any mix of fresh fruit squeezed would work too…id imagine flowers and spice could be an option but haven’t tried yet…

Shine Time
Basics…. Alcohol boils off at 172 degrees water at 212 degrees….maintain a 172 degree constant by adjusting gas, or removing/adding coal or wood….separates pure alcohol from water…the idea from here is to re-cool it back into a liquid with the coils….
1..mash combination of sugar water yeast and rye (barley) or corn…heat up and let ferment several days to a week..
2..Transfer mash to still bin for boil off…(reuse mash?)
Still Bin The still bin consist of being all copper, this wont allow any impurities that other metals might add to the mix, so only only use copper..The bin is like a half sphere, with the opening looking up…a copper funnel contraption is reversed and set ontop like the tinmans hat…from there the copper tubing coils along the top and back down in a spiral to a far enough level to allow for adequate cooling, from there it can drip into a bucket or separate jug using cheese cloth to filter it of sediment or any other impurities that may come along…this is shine…don’t kill yourself, but youll probably go blind…anyway from here, this alcohol can be placed in burn oak barrels and stored for one to five years turning carefully every six months or so… turning it into more of an aged whiskey…the basics are there, maintain the temp at 172 and you will boil off the alcohol from the fermented mash/water mix….re cool and bottle…


Hard Cider

Making hard cider is relatively easy…Ive done it myself a few times now….cider has natural sugars in it, so you don’t need to add the sugar….I add one packet of active dry yeast to one gallon of store bought cider, dumping just a little out for space…I cap it with a condom, poking a hole in the resivor tip to make it a one way valve and tie on…then I just let it sit in the basement or on a shelf for about 30 days…freeze to kill yeast, then thaw and filter through coffee filters like the M.A.C…will take longer though, the cider is thicker than juice…after filtered I add sugar then to taste…usually a ¼ cup to a ½ cup per gallon…is very nice…(by poking holes in the condom you avoid carbonating the drink) really no need to let it sit more than thirty days, the alcohol content for wont really get too high past that…its pretty unorthodox…

Making Beer

Malting when malting barley, keep in mind it takes a bit…and some practice…Take harvested barley out (sac or whatever) dump it on floor..(couch it) let sit in pile in water for a few days, rake it out now and again so it doesn’t build up too much heat of its own, keep it sprinkled…(your basicall keeping it alive and letting the green grow out some) …once it starts to grow to approx 2/3 the size of the grain…Approx ten days or so, then transfer to kiln or roasting area….kiln at 120 to 140 degrees no more or will kill the active enzymes the beer needs…roast to color or darkness you desire..light brown, light brown color, dark roast darker beer…when its dry and colored to the shade you want take it out, let it cool some and crush it, don’t pulverize it, just crush it...this is your malt…you need one bushel for this recipe……

Boil 10 gal of water in kettle……have vat ready…(handmade barrel assuming with own wood cock ((tap))…in vat place bundle of straw tied for filter, place in barrel at bottom and run string out through tap hole, push in wood cock (tap) and pull on string for till tight fit…
Water Boils Let cool to approx 150 degrees, pour half into your vat…dump in one bushel of malt in rest of hot water and stir…..put up for night, cover with clean sheet and blanket…does its own work till next day….
Next Day open drain..(tap/cock) and drain into bucket…this liquid is called Wort…now sprinkle spent malt with kettle after kettle of boiling water till you get 10 gallons of Wort….put this in your Boiler Pan…
Boiler Pan Pack 1 lb of hops into a pillow case and plunge into boiler of ten gallons of Wort…(can add honey, sugar or malt extract if you want nows the time, but you don’t need it for this…) Boil this for at least one hour….
Clean Out Vat, spent mash is good for animal feed, pigs, goats, cows…
Draw One pitcher of the boiling wort hops pillow brew and let cool by submersing in cold water but don’t get any in it…once cooled to approx 60 degrees or so plop in your yeast…packet of beer yeast, 1 oz will do, if you don’t have that then a couple of tbsp of Barm..from your last batch that’s been kept covered in a cool place..(coming up)…now transfer rest of boilng wort, back into clean vat…
Cool majority of wort by submersing bucket after bucket of cold water into vat, don’t spill any…As soon as cooled (hand hot) 60 to 70 degrees pour in starter..(pitcher of yeasty wort) and stir…cover with blankets, leave for 3 days
Skim Off Barm wait till done fermenting…5 to 8 more days, rack it… (pour off into containers or bottles, cork it… drink it…(can distill beer)……Keep skimmed off barm in a cool place kept covered, can use as yeast for wort next time…

(Spruce Beer) Tender young sprigs of spruce or pine boiled in water for around 3 hours…the resulting liquor was strained into a wooden cask…and one quart of molasses added to every six gallons of brew…. “It tastes and smells like turpentine” old civil war drink….????? Never tried…..


Food For Thought
A friend of mine taught me something about carrying fire….layering on a good barkskin….tinder, fine starter tinder, tinder, fine starter tinder,””””and placing it sandwich like together with another good barkskin, tieing it together…(kind of resembles a cone) tie tightly…..you could drop a coal in it and keep it going a good three four hours walktime…if you made a few of these….well you get the picture…also, pine resin and frijtos, and peanuts…are good fuels to help build up a fire real quick once going…the oils in them burn well, and hot…can be all that separates you from freezing for real….keep your heads down, no matter what the situation is…even if it is just living sufficiently and green in a modern world…the modern world, as we have come to know it…is more fragile than glass…so bet not on its luxuries and innovations…take a second…stop and breathe…look around you, your space…your vicinity and field….then breathe…look again..dont talk just listen to it…feel it out, and what comes to a clear mind….watch your environment, the land and the animals will teach you, the sky will guide you…watch and listen to them all….become them..know them, and converse with them….build upon yourselves a foundation of truth, trust, love and heart….nothing more but empathy will bind them, in a soul willing to kill when necessary…forget not the steps you took to get here…they made you who you are….if low on food ration it, use math…most tools and weapons can be made of the earth,…resources, living free only with the cost of labor…but be aware…you can burn up your whole area in a year with fires alone keeping warm…assess your situation, your immediate situation…plan deeper if life allows….a tip on gathering wood…start farther away from home if your staying there a while…clear out what you need around you but gather away….use twine, or strong string, good three foot sections…lay on ground a foot or more apart, parallel, lay wood across strings in large pile, barley stacking…pull strings around and twist together till tight, good handle…untwist and dump go back out…figure out wood per hour ratio…..even wet wood will dry near a fire…recultivate the wild edibles and grow food for the animals away from your land, game food or just nurturing food, whatever..give back…spread what the life gives you around…from sprouts and new trees to love and hard work…stay away from convictions, and be not a cancer upon the earth….and remember..an electric fence sucks, chainlink or otherwise…especially if it is laying on the ground…..and another thing…horses cant limbo…so trick them into running after you with their posse, but have your buddys waiting with the limbo line and whatever other tools the situation needs…electricity travels through water…puddles or high pressure hoses...dont react, think and act right….water flows up and downhill, and seems to be wet…space looks dark but I don’t think it is…stars they say are old, so they cant be seeing us yet cause were not born…watch the children for the leaders, they are there…forget not the force which has brought you here, and kept your thoughts alive…say thanks and good luck….peace…
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