HEAD GASKET Repairing Sealants - DO THEY WORK ? | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 2408738 United States 01/04/2012 12:02 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | K&W NanoTechnology Permanent Head Gasket & Block Repair, 32 fl. oz. (401232) [link to www.amazon.com] |
Burt Gummer User ID: 7702124 United States 01/04/2012 12:04 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ...so I'm facing a tough choice here Quoting: shade tree mechanic 1440812 Do I use one of those liquid head gasket repair sealants and hope and prey that it actually fixes it or should I just forget that and start wrenching, taking stuff apart and just change the gaskets Have you ever used any miraculous liquid sealers or is it all just "snake oil" actually making things worse in the long run ? Currently the engine (vg33e) uses a little water and some steam comes out of exhaust until it warms up there's no water in the oil and no oil in the water (yet) air or rather exhast gasses bubble out of radiator slowly The cooling system has been neglected in this car is likely what caused it.. so what's your opinion GLP ? Don't bother. Once it's blown....it's blown. ....FYI....water mixed with oil = bad news for your engine. Replace it. Last Edited by Useless Cookie Eater on 01/04/2012 12:05 AM |
Leggy User ID: 1210386 Australia 01/04/2012 12:17 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Pull the head. Take it to the shop for crack test and maybe 10 thou plane... You need to check between the water jackets in the block and the bore. Sounds like it may have corroded in between. If so, you also need to take in your block and have it "decked". In aus it is about $60 for a crack test on a head Well worth making sure it is right from the start A mechanic can pressure test and tell you if you are losing water. But bear in mind it's a lot more pressure than usually runs thru your motor. So it could just blow the gasket clean away anyway |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 1515928 United States 01/04/2012 12:25 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 4293914 United States 01/04/2012 12:26 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | A couple years ago I bought a '99 GMC Jimmy with, apparently a faulty head gasket. The pseudo-dealership i bought it from used that sealant stuff long enough to sell the vehicle. Lasted three months after I bought. It is really pricey to have it done which I'm sure you are aware, but in my opinion completely worth it. |
flyzone User ID: 1730690 Canada 01/04/2012 12:40 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 7657675 United States 01/04/2012 12:50 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | VG30's and 33's used to blow head gaskets between cylinders. I do not believe the sealant will help you. It would be like a 24 hr band aid. Next failure would be catastrophic (engine replacement). As of right now it can be fixed, but it should be fixed right. Im suprised at how many half ass technicians there are around here giving out questionable advice. No wait, sorry, forgot. This is GLP. I think your question would be better asked in www.clubxterra.com |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 7246535 United States 01/04/2012 12:53 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Op you still there? Look, I own a 300ZX Turbo and I've worked on the VG30ET and swapped it for a VG33E and turboed it. DO NOT USE ANY OF THESE SEALANTS ON THIS MOTOR. You WILL FUCK IT UP and then will not be able to salvage the motor. Do it properly. Yes, it is a pain in the ass to pull the heads off especially if you still have a lot of the stock crap/idle controls in the way, but it is possible to do it in the car. I have never done it in the car, but I've seen pictures of many who do. When I did my engine, I just pulled it out with an engine hoist. |
Burt Gummer User ID: 7702124 United States 01/04/2012 12:57 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Op you still there? Look, I own a 300ZX Turbo and I've worked on the VG30ET and swapped it for a VG33E and turboed it. Quoting: Anonymous Coward 7246535 DO NOT USE ANY OF THESE SEALANTS ON THIS MOTOR. You WILL FUCK IT UP and then will not be able to salvage the motor. Do it properly. Yes, it is a pain in the ass to pull the heads off especially if you still have a lot of the stock crap/idle controls in the way, but it is possible to do it in the car. I have never done it in the car, but I've seen pictures of many who do. When I did my engine, I just pulled it out with an engine hoist. Nice cars...always thought the styling of that car was way ahead of its time....but what a bitch to work on....especially with the turbo. You literally need a shoehorn to fit anything else under the hood. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 8164313 United States 01/04/2012 12:59 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 7246535 United States 01/04/2012 01:02 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | To be sure buy an exhaust gas test kit and test the radiator fluid. That or rent one of those cooling system pressurizers and see if there are any external leaks. Then check to see if there is water in the cylinders through the spark plug hole. Yes, this would make things worse but you should be parking that car instead of relying on it. Who knows when it will REALLY blow. Not sure if it's realistic for it to hydrolock, but its a possibility. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 5769488 United States 01/04/2012 01:03 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 1370806 United States 01/04/2012 01:13 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 7246535 United States 01/04/2012 01:14 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Op you still there? Look, I own a 300ZX Turbo and I've worked on the VG30ET and swapped it for a VG33E and turboed it. Quoting: Anonymous Coward 7246535 DO NOT USE ANY OF THESE SEALANTS ON THIS MOTOR. You WILL FUCK IT UP and then will not be able to salvage the motor. Do it properly. Yes, it is a pain in the ass to pull the heads off especially if you still have a lot of the stock crap/idle controls in the way, but it is possible to do it in the car. I have never done it in the car, but I've seen pictures of many who do. When I did my engine, I just pulled it out with an engine hoist. Nice cars...always thought the styling of that car was way ahead of its time....but what a bitch to work on....especially with the turbo. You literally need a shoehorn to fit anything else under the hood. I did everything for simplicity and quickly taking it apart though. Relocated the turbo to the top, modified a maxima intake manifold, removed a lot of the idle crap and vacuum lines(didn't work anyway), electric fan, etc. I know doing that kind of stuff and not keeping the car stock isn't everyone's cup of tea. I have seen the stock engine bay from factory and it does look like a nightmare. I've heard working on 300ZX Twin Turbos with the VG30DETT is much more of a nightmare than on mine. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 7246535 United States 01/04/2012 01:14 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Op you still there? Look, I own a 300ZX Turbo and I've worked on the VG30ET and swapped it for a VG33E and turboed it. Quoting: Anonymous Coward 7246535 DO NOT USE ANY OF THESE SEALANTS ON THIS MOTOR. You WILL FUCK IT UP and then will not be able to salvage the motor. Do it properly. Yes, it is a pain in the ass to pull the heads off especially if you still have a lot of the stock crap/idle controls in the way, but it is possible to do it in the car. I have never done it in the car, but I've seen pictures of many who do. When I did my engine, I just pulled it out with an engine hoist. Nice cars...always thought the styling of that car was way ahead of its time....but what a bitch to work on....especially with the turbo. You literally need a shoehorn to fit anything else under the hood. I did everything for simplicity and quickly taking it apart though. Relocated the turbo to the top, modified a maxima intake manifold, removed a lot of the idle crap and vacuum lines(didn't work anyway), electric fan, etc. I know doing that kind of stuff and not keeping the car stock isn't everyone's cup of tea. I have seen the stock engine bay from factory and it does look like a nightmare. I've heard working on 300ZX Twin Turbos with the VG30DETT is much more of a nightmare than on mine. |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 1440812 China 01/04/2012 01:38 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
AWFUL User ID: 8216434 United States 01/04/2012 01:48 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 3218498 United States 01/04/2012 02:22 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 1244929 United States 01/04/2012 02:25 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | I am a self taught mechanic and gearhead and have been working on engines since i was 6 years old, quite literally. DO NOT use any type of head gasket sealant, as it will make matters worst within a few days or weeks, including causing water pump seal failure which leads to water pump failure and leaking, clogged or obstructing water passages in the head and especially the radiator,and jamming of the thermostat. This will cause an increase in engine temperature and eventually cause the water to escape more rapidly. Steam coming from the exhaust is completely normal in all modern cars on cool or cold days, as the catalytic converter converts certain combustion byproducts to water. Water dripping from the exhaust pipe under all weather conditions is also normal until the exhaust system heats up. If you are losing only a small amount of water replace the radiator cap which might have a defective seal or a worn out pressure regulator and check the hoses, especially the heater hoses going to the heater core, the small hose that goes from the radiator to the water reservoir tank, and the cap on the water reservoir tank. Gasses getting into the cooling system is not necessary the result of combustion gasses leaking into the cooling system, in fact I seriously doubt that is your problem based in your symptoms. If it were a head gasket leak between a water passage and the combustion chamber, steam production from the exhaust would INCREASE DRAMATICALLY as the engine warmed up and the combustion gasses would cause a contamination of the coolant that looks exactly as if oil has leaked into the coolant (white gooey material floating under the radiator cap) Of you want my guess , air is being drawn into the cooling system while the engine is cooling off after being shut down because of a defective radiator cap seal when the engine cools or the radiator to reservoir hose has a leak. Air entering the cooling system form anywhere displaces water causing it to be forced out of the reservoir overflow. Bubbles that are emitting smoke emerging from the open radiator cap are in fact a symptom of a cracked head or leaking head gasket, but pure air bubbles are not indicative of a blown head gasket or or cracked head, they are most likely the result of a leaking heater core, hose connection or radiator cap. If you determine you do have a blown head gasket, leaking radiator or leaking water seals and your car is a beater and you're just trying to get a few extra miles out of it, the adding of a simple egg to the radiator will temporally plug leaks and works as well as the most expensive sealant. Hen it starts leaking again feed it another egg. The egg white finds and plugs the leaks and cooks into a material harder than lead. |
AWFUL User ID: 8216434 United States 01/04/2012 02:27 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 8241877 United States 01/04/2012 02:32 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 1244929 United States 01/04/2012 02:44 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Get a CLUE already. When a head gasket blows, the car is basically.......TRASH Quoting: Anonymous Coward 8241877 Horse manure. All it takes to blow a head gasket is an improperly torqued bolt at the factory. I bought a 2000 GMC Sierra for 1000 dollars with 160 g's on it that was smoking, had water in the oil and oil in the water and was smoking so badly the police pulled me over and told me i couldn't drive it down the road because it was obscuring the vision of drivers behind me. A felpro head gasket set costing 60 dollars and weekend of fun pulling and cleaning the cast iron heads and engine block and replacing the head gasket, intake gasket, valve seals , exhaust manifold gaskets and egr gasket resulted in a perfectly running truck that i have since put 180,000 miles on with no relapse of problems, only minor repairs such as worn out water pump and alternator. The guy I bought the truck from offered me 4000 dollars a month after I bought it from him for it because he was told the same thing you just said. |
lightchild_uk Waiting for IT User ID: 8012632 United Kingdom 01/04/2012 02:51 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Steam coming from the exhaust is completely normal in all modern cars on cool or cold days, as the catalytic converter converts certain combustion byproducts to water. Water dripping from the exhaust pipe under all weather conditions is also normal until the exhaust system heats up. Quoting: Anonymous Coward 1244929 ^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^ What about doing a compression test on the engine? |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 1244929 United States 01/04/2012 02:56 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Steam coming from the exhaust is completely normal in all modern cars on cool or cold days, as the catalytic converter converts certain combustion byproducts to water. Water dripping from the exhaust pipe under all weather conditions is also normal until the exhaust system heats up. Quoting: Anonymous Coward 1244929 ^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^ What about doing a compression test on the engine? Better yet a leakdown test. Compression tests are grat for detecting leaking valves but if it is a minute leak a compression test won't detect it. If all cylinders are nearly equal in leakdown timing, there is no leak between the combustion chamber and the cooling channels. I could look at the OP's car about five minutes and tell him precisely what the problem is but his description is imprecise. |
TheRoaminGnome User ID: 1517855 United States 01/04/2012 02:58 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Replace. No debate there. *This reply is no threat, nor is it meant to be misunderstood nor construed, twisted, bent or otherwise shaped into something it is not. It is not idle nor deliberate nor meant to be taken in any kind of way that would implicate anything other than thoughts of marshmallow clouds, spring mountains or anything else pleasant, yet not illegal. Also note anything you say or do in reply, whether positive, pissed off, bent out of shape or distressed in any human form (disregarding on record mental illnesses) can be held against you in a court of law. Let it further be known that if someone leaves a response that I find derogatory, I reserve the right to piss and moan, cuss, kick objects that don't breath, (sorry PETA) and throw a general temper tantrum without be held responsible for any actions I may say or act out upon |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 1370806 United States 01/04/2012 03:04 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Usually you will see either a lumpy, chocolate milk colored substance along your dipstick, or similarly colored small globs in your radiator fluid. Check the radiator fluid when the engine is cold. Steam and water blowing out your tailpipe is normal. All manner of condensation occurs inside. It's not unusual to drive a considerable distance and still see water blowing out. As for the loss of water, that could just be that the seal on your radiator cap is getting old. You could also pull the plugs and see if they have a funky, whitish substance building up on them. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 1244929 United States 01/04/2012 03:11 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Yeah, the thing is with modern designs the engine compartment is so packed and there is so much 'stuff' that has to be removed before you can get to the head itself, the average person is incapable of doing the job. You have to remembered that this 'stuff' not only has to be removed, it has to be replaced exactly like it was or more than likely the engine won't run at all. I believe in the car described, the engine has to be completely removed from the engine compartment, adding to the cost and complexity. In a typical GM, Ford or Dodge v-8 or v-6 mounted in the traditional position of pre 2000 vintage, the entire engine can be rebuilt without even removing it from the engine compartment, including crankshaft, valvetrain, heads, cylinder bores , the whole works. A good mechanic like myself will charge 2000 dollars to replace a head gasket in a car like the op described simply because of the complex nature of the design. If it were a typical design like a traditionally mounted v-8 I would charge him less that 400 dollars + materials. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 7964455 Australia 01/04/2012 03:13 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Help!! User ID: 6204739 United States 01/04/2012 03:19 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | What is a fair price for a head gasket job on a '93 Olds? Mine is original owner with less than 80,000 miles, and yet the blue book value is less than the estimate a mechanic gave me of $1,200 to do the job. It seemed high, as I had done a headgasket job myself in my youth, but nowadays you have to take half of the car apart just to get access to the head bolts, and I don't have the patience or memory to put hundreds of pieces back together again, lol. Is $1,200 a fair price or a rip-off? |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 1244929 United States 01/04/2012 03:20 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | No they don't work even the best aviation grade wont work. Quoting: Anonymous Coward 7964455 Because by the time you notice you have a blown head gasket, you have probably already got head/block face warpage or cracks. Usually if you have a cast iron head and block mad eof the same material ,warpage or cracks are not a common problem unless the car is severely overheated, but the thing is most modern cars have aluminum heads. With aluminum heads, if your temperature gauge goes in the red you are assured serious problems will immediately develop. This was done to reduce weight and was one on the stupidest things ever thought up because the difference in the thermal expansion rate between the two materials results in inevitable head gasket, warpage and head cracking problems |