%&*@ Check engine light and i cant afford to fix shit.

Me too.

Well if the code read exactly as you posted:

"circuit condition or idle speed higher/lower than expected"

it indicated a problem in a circuit, maybe the Idle Control Motor, which I do change quite a few of. Be careful, I also change many Throttle Position Sensors on those engines and it fits better with your description of it acting up at speed. The 360 is a great engine and easy to work on BTW - A CLASSIC.

What is the code number?? should in this format - P0999.

The correct way to diagnose that would be to hook up a scan tool capable of displaying live data and observe the voltage from the TPS while it acts up.

Has it ever killed or not started? The throttle position on all Chrysler's is a common problem. Usually we get a different code - A P0320.

If I were you the first thing I would do would be to inspect the throttle body by removing the intake boot. If dirty clean it with some induction cleaner and a brush. Clean the blade and the bore around the throttle blade as good as you can. It will smoke after don't worry about it.

If that doesn't do it you can pull off the Idle Control Valve and see if the pindle is stuck due to a carbon build up. If so clean the valve and the spot where it mounts on the intake.

The throttle body cleaning will help performance anyway, so its easy and worth a try IMO.

P0505

Mine was on, had it checked at Uncle Ed's oil change, and they put this little machine somewhere in there...said it was a gas-mix thing, a little off on the gas mix. That it really didn't matter, I might just not get as good mileage. Later at the car repair place. they again looked at it, said the same thing, and just turned off the light/sensor thing, and said ignore it. Old car, whatever......

Also check the oil filler cap. My 2011 Chevy Cruze never had the O-ring gasket in it and it leaked oil out. The engine light came on. The dealer took out my "splash pan" due a recall and put in a new oil filler cap.

It's probably nothing, i've never had a car that didn't have the check engine light on.. lol. They last for years. Check engine light never warns you of a real problem anyway.

That is usually the IAC or the wiring harness (a big problem on those.....HOWEVER the code is commonly caused by the PCM (powertrain control module)burning up.

Here is how you test it...

1. Remove the 4-wire connector for the Idle Air Control (IAC). Attach a test light to battery ground. Start the engine, probe the four circuits while revving the engine up and down. The test light should blink on all four circuits. If it does, attach the test light to battery positive and re-check each circuit again. Once again the test light should blink on and off on all four circuits. If one or more circuits are not blinking, the wiring or the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is at fault. If they are blinking the IAC is bad.

2. Test the wiring between the PCM and the IAC for open circuits or for short circuits. Repair as needed.

3. If the wiring is OK, replace the PCM.

Running lean or rich can burn up O2 sensors or catalytic converters.....I see it all the time.

What kind of car?

Go to your local auto parts store, they will run a code scan for free, and tell you what it is, then you can go from there. If its real bad sell the car to TTowngirl and buy another.

My check engine light is on and has been for a while. My code and the dealer tells me its a malfunctioning fuel sensor. Now it`s up for a smog inspection and it failed. Now I have to pay to fix my fuel sensor to pass a smog test to renew the reg. My vehicle is only 6 years old and has 48K on the mileage!!!

Yeah I believe that emission testing is biased. I see so many old ladies with 1997 Buicks with 10,000 miles on them that won't pass inspection. Now a 85 year old, living on a fixed income has to spend big bucks on a car that has a very minor problem and is driven 50 miles a year....HOW IS SHE KILLING THE ENVIRONMENT??

Inspections are a racket.

"dirty throttle body" or it could be a plugged catalytic converter ?

I would try to clean the throttle body first. Take the round vent that comes from the air filter off and see if the throttle body is dirty around the butterfly as these kinds of motors are very sensitive to small accumulations of carbon and dirt around that butterfly.

Here is a picture of the location that typically causes the problem clean it with carb cleaner and a toothbrush.


[link to www.google.com]

and a You tube video to help you:

ROFL, read my above post.

Good point about the cat though. Chrysler cat converters suck, but they usually make a rattle noise or set a P0420 code.

If it is just on and not blinking you have a problem with the Emissions system, if it is flashing you have a serious problem.

Top off all your fluids. My break light was on until I topped off my brake fluid. My service engine light was on until Topped off coolant and added some Seafoam to the gas tank.

I hate the idea of an engine light. Like something that Microsoft would have invented "Car failed press Ok". Can't the auto makers spend a few dollars to add a plain text english read out in the dash!?

Way to make a simple issue a pain in the ass, guys. lol

Your fine in the short term (a year or so) as ONE other poster said. It is almost 100% certainty that it is your O2 sensor. Not hard to fix at all, it is located by your exhaust manifold where it joins into the motor. A Haynes manual for your car gives very simple instructions in layman's terms, how to replace it.

Fixing cars is not that difficult, learn to do it yourself and stop paying triple in labor costs.

I can understand as I've seen so many times where an oxygen sensor out of range code shows up and autozone sells them an oxygen sensor that doesn't fix the intake leak that was causing the erroneous code.

It's not always as easy as reading the code and replacing the part it tells you. Often one problem has caused a cascade of error codes. Getting to the REAL cause of it all still requires knowledge and experience much of the time.

It is not a 100% bet that is is an O2 sensor....far from it.

With the Dodge, it most definitely is not.

true it could be any number of things, most things that set off CEL are related to emissions anyways.

also if you don't tighten your gas cap tightly after getting gas, that will also set off the CEL.

if you want to make it go off without getting the computer scanned then just disconnect the negative battery cable and let the car sit a while.

then hook the cable back up and the CEL should be gone. it may come back and if it does it means that its a hard fault.

usually the cars computer needs to see certain problems over many drive cycles to rule out reporting something that may not need attention since the computer can make many adjustments to adapt for different driving conditions.

a bad 02 sensor would be a good example of a hard fault since the cars computer can no longer receive data from it period.

If you run a car ignoring the light and it is running severely lean it can roast your cat, o2's and EGR system....NOT ADVISABLE!!!

You just gave bad advice that could cost people much more money later.

Had problems with wiring harness(have piggy-back on it)
thanks so much for the info,have something ta go on when i take her into the shop.

i believe it needs a jumper wire to be present in the obd 1 plug also but i may be wrong.

Put a piece of electrical tape over the light, that way you will not have to look at the stupid thing.

sounds like a vacuum leak.... to check yourself get a can of brakeclean and with the engine running rough at idle lift the hood and spray a little brakeclean around all the various vacuum lines you see. if you notice the engines idle change or smooth out just for a second then that may be where you leak is.

Yes, you have to jump the plug....thats the easy part. I'm a lead tech so I always get distracted while trying to count out a long one..Lol.

The P0505 indicates a malfunction in the circuit for the IAC. I gave him the test to perform, all he needs is a test light.

It is likely the IAC (Idle Control Valve), its wiring, or the PCM (the computer - which are known to fail on Dodge trucks.)


TO THE DODGE OWNER: The last customer I sent to the dealer had a 1997 Ram in need of a PCM. They made a 50% goodwill adjustment as it is a known problem....worth a shot.