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Anonymous Coward User ID: 31962559 Canada 01/20/2013 10:14 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Sounds likely friend. You know, you can go down to Advanced Auto parts and they can hook up the computer to it and do a quick test for free. Quoting: Anonymous Coward 32679929 Might help you identify the issue. how can i do that when the car wont start? Duh, sorry. Sounds like OP is getting pissed. OP you can borrow from Auto Zone Pep Boys etc, a hand held unit to read the codes. Leave a deposit get it back when you return the reader |
David Fap User ID: 868284 Canada 01/20/2013 10:14 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Fuses may look good but are actually blown or have high resistance and are garbage. Fuses are cheap so just replace a bunch and see what happens. Relays, same deal. Double check them and smell them for a burned odor or any blackening or smoky signs. Recheck every connection and harness, physically pull or take them apart again and reinstall. Sometimes tiny pins look like they are connected but aren't, maybe they are bent too. Occam's razor, it's something basic most likely. Start at the battery and clean and tighten it up and just work your way back like a forensic detective and examine every connection and fuse. |
SmellslikeDrama (OP) User ID: 1267719 United States 01/20/2013 10:15 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: ... 32668200 If you get power to the Ign. Switch and lights etc. then It IS Not the fusable link... It sounds like your ECM/ECU (Brain) might have Fried... They seam to be around $150.00 to $175.00 ish and appear to be available after market... ... . That's what i was thinking , maybe the new alternator killed it. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 16178844 United States 01/20/2013 10:18 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 32690571 United States 01/20/2013 10:19 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 16178844 United States 01/20/2013 10:19 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
SmellslikeDrama (OP) User ID: 1267719 United States 01/20/2013 10:21 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Get the main pc tested, check ignition module, maf sensor, are you getting spark at all? also cps (crank sensor). Quoting: Anonymous Coward 32690571 no spark at all No power at the t plug leading into the coil. Since it is a 1994 model it only has ODB-I controls....minimally helpful at best in self diagnostics. Therefore you need to do the legwork. Use a voltmeter and test the link back from the coil to the ignition module. Since the fuel pump isn't running either, test the fuse box link leading to the fuel pump and see if you can make it work by putting 12 volts directly through it. Off the top of my head it looks like you have some burned wire / circuit problem...if you are ABOSOLUTELY SURE all the fuses are ok. I tested all the fuse with a tester. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 10783814 United States 01/20/2013 10:22 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | OMG, ok. Pull the ecu and have it tested. Probably better to seek elsewhere but, you're lucky and have found me. Simply pull the ecu and have it tested. NOT BY advance auto or O'Reily's etc, as they make a commission on what they sell you and will tell you that a perfectly good ecu is no good for the commission. (OR) If you have (or can get your hands on) a simple multi-meter and - obviously know how to use your computer, you can search various car enthusiast sites for your car and they will give you the specs on the ecu. This lets you test the ecu for yourself. You simply cross certain links and observe the readings. If they are all within specs you're good. If not, hook-up with your local junk yard and replace it on the cheap. Or, search "discountautoparts" and you will find a place I've used for parts on the cheap which are the same as you'll get at advance, etc only they will be 1/3 the price. Keep in mind that it's a 1994 Chrysler. Just sayin. The ecu is about $100 from the right source. If all else is good but the money flow then it's probably worth it. Hope this helps. |
SmellslikeDrama (OP) User ID: 1267719 United States 01/20/2013 10:24 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 32690571 United States 01/20/2013 10:24 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Btw if it is your main that went then something caused that as well, Your new alt should not have done anything but your old one going out could have caused issues. Just double check the wiring on the new alt to make sure since that was last touched. But strongly think your ignition control module went. They are quick and easy to replace sometimes u can borrow 1 just to see. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 32690571 United States 01/20/2013 10:28 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
SmellslikeDrama (OP) User ID: 1267719 United States 01/20/2013 10:28 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Useless Cookie Eater User ID: 29696048 United States 01/20/2013 10:30 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Get the main pc tested, check ignition module, maf sensor, are you getting spark at all? also cps (crank sensor). Quoting: Anonymous Coward 32690571 no spark at all No power at the t plug leading into the coil. Since it is a 1994 model it only has ODB-I controls....minimally helpful at best in self diagnostics. Therefore you need to do the legwork. Use a voltmeter and test the link back from the coil to the ignition module. Since the fuel pump isn't running either, test the fuse box link leading to the fuel pump and see if you can make it work by putting 12 volts directly through it. Off the top of my head it looks like you have some burned wire / circuit problem...if you are ABOSOLUTELY SURE all the fuses are ok. I tested all the fuse with a tester. OK...if they are 100%...and you are sure. Next get a digital voltmeter if you don't have one. ...they are cheap these days. [link to www.northerntool.com] ...give the fuel pump 12 volts from the fusebox and see if you can make it spin. You should be able to hear it. If that works/ tests ok, and the lines to the coil are testing all OK and not burned, I'm going to start leaning toward the ECU as being the problem too. Others have mentioned that already as well. Here's a link to some. You need to get the numbers off the old one to match it up with the new one. [link to www.partsgeek.com] Last Edited by Useless Cookie Eater on 01/20/2013 10:34 PM |
SmellslikeDrama (OP) User ID: 1267719 United States 01/20/2013 10:37 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Since it is a 1994 model it only has ODB-I controls....minimally helpful at best in self diagnostics. Therefore you need to do the legwork. Use a voltmeter and test the link back from the coil to the ignition module. Since the fuel pump isn't running either, test the fuse box link leading to the fuel pump and see if you can make it work by putting 12 volts directly through it. Off the top of my head it looks like you have some burned wire / circuit problem...if you are ABOSOLUTELY SURE all the fuses are ok. I tested all the fuse with a tester. OK...if they are 100%...and you are sure. Next get a digital voltmeter if you don't have one. ...they are cheap these days. [link to www.northerntool.com] ...give the fuel pump 12 volts from the fusebox and see if you can make it spin. You should be able to hear it. If that works/ tests ok, and the lines to the coil are testing all OK and not burned, I'm going to start leaning toward the ECU as being the problem too. Others have mentioned that already as well. Here's a link to some. You need to get the numbers off the old one to match it up with the new one. [link to www.partsgeek.com] what if i cant find the right part number? |
Useless Cookie Eater User ID: 29696048 United States 01/20/2013 10:45 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Useless Cookie Eater Since it is a 1994 model it only has ODB-I controls....minimally helpful at best in self diagnostics. Therefore you need to do the legwork. Use a voltmeter and test the link back from the coil to the ignition module. Since the fuel pump isn't running either, test the fuse box link leading to the fuel pump and see if you can make it work by putting 12 volts directly through it. Off the top of my head it looks like you have some burned wire / circuit problem...if you are ABOSOLUTELY SURE all the fuses are ok. I tested all the fuse with a tester. OK...if they are 100%...and you are sure. Next get a digital voltmeter if you don't have one. ...they are cheap these days. [link to www.northerntool.com] ...give the fuel pump 12 volts from the fusebox and see if you can make it spin. You should be able to hear it. If that works/ tests ok, and the lines to the coil are testing all OK and not burned, I'm going to start leaning toward the ECU as being the problem too. Others have mentioned that already as well. Here's a link to some. You need to get the numbers off the old one to match it up with the new one. [link to www.partsgeek.com] what if i cant find the right part number? There is USUALLY a white "OE" (Original Equipment) tag on every ECU. Some of them have barcodes on them as well. If not, the OE part number will be stamped on the plastic itself. That is the part/model number you need. Last Edited by Useless Cookie Eater on 01/20/2013 10:46 PM |
Chef. User ID: 32692863 United States 01/20/2013 10:50 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | So i have a car , its not getting power to the electric fuel pump or coil. Quoting: SmellslikeDrama The starter will turn over with the key, and the dash lights and all work. None of the fuses are blown. I replaced the fuel relays , and auto stop relay. I smelt something burning like a computer while the key was on by the battery. I figured out the smell was coming from the engine control module. It smells like a burn computer board. Would that be my problem? Its my daily doom I would check to see if this car has the safety shut-off in the trunk it kills the fuel pump if rear ended. Should have a reset you can push. Out of the pan into the Fire. |
SmellslikeDrama (OP) User ID: 1267719 United States 01/20/2013 10:54 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | OK...if they are 100%...and you are sure. Next get a digital voltmeter if you don't have one. ...they are cheap these days. [link to www.northerntool.com] ...give the fuel pump 12 volts from the fusebox and see if you can make it spin. You should be able to hear it. If that works/ tests ok, and the lines to the coil are testing all OK and not burned, I'm going to start leaning toward the ECU as being the problem too. Others have mentioned that already as well. Here's a link to some. You need to get the numbers off the old one to match it up with the new one. [link to www.partsgeek.com] what if i cant find the right part number? There is USUALLY a white "OE" (Original Equipment) tag on every ECU. Some of them have barcodes on them as well. If not, the OE part number will be stamped on the plastic itself. That is the part/model number you need. Yes all the ones iv looked at aren't the same number . |
Useless Cookie Eater User ID: 29696048 United States 01/20/2013 10:59 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Useless Cookie Eater OK...if they are 100%...and you are sure. Next get a digital voltmeter if you don't have one. ...they are cheap these days. [link to www.northerntool.com] ...give the fuel pump 12 volts from the fusebox and see if you can make it spin. You should be able to hear it. If that works/ tests ok, and the lines to the coil are testing all OK and not burned, I'm going to start leaning toward the ECU as being the problem too. Others have mentioned that already as well. Here's a link to some. You need to get the numbers off the old one to match it up with the new one. [link to www.partsgeek.com] what if i cant find the right part number? There is USUALLY a white "OE" (Original Equipment) tag on every ECU. Some of them have barcodes on them as well. If not, the OE part number will be stamped on the plastic itself. That is the part/model number you need. Yes all the ones iv looked at aren't the same number . I don't follow what you are saying. There is only one OE part number that ECU unit in your car that will match the potential replacements. Give me / post ALL the numbers on the ECU. If you can't see them all....pull / take the ECU out. Last Edited by Useless Cookie Eater on 01/20/2013 10:59 PM |
SmellslikeDrama (OP) User ID: 1267719 United States 01/27/2013 02:07 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | NEW PROBLEM Ok What would cause the injectors to not be getting power? The wire harness that that leads to the injectors has fire. The car wants to start when using starter fluid. So its not getting gas.The fuel pump is working. I replaced the ecm and its all good. I cant get any fire on the injector plug while trying to start the car. Last Edited by <x> on 01/27/2013 02:11 PM |
SmellslikeDrama (OP) User ID: 1267719 United States 01/27/2013 02:10 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | come on i need some help..... I thought maybe bad gas ... But the no power to the injectors is confusing me. they should light up a light tester right? Last Edited by <x> on 01/27/2013 02:10 PM |
Useless Cookie Eater User ID: 29696048 United States 01/27/2013 02:12 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | NEW PROBLEM Quoting: SmellslikeDrama Ok What would cause the injectors to not be getting power? The wire harness that that leads to the injectors has fire. The car wants to start when using starter fluid. So its not getting gas.The fuel pump is working. I replaced the ecm and its all good. I cant get any fire on the injector plug while trying to start the car. Did you replace the ECU ? |
SmellslikeDrama (OP) User ID: 1267719 United States 01/27/2013 02:13 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
SmellslikeDrama (OP) User ID: 1267719 United States 01/27/2013 02:13 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | NEW PROBLEM Quoting: SmellslikeDrama Ok What would cause the injectors to not be getting power? The wire harness that that leads to the injectors has fire. The car wants to start when using starter fluid. So its not getting gas.The fuel pump is working. I replaced the ecm and its all good. I cant get any fire on the injector plug while trying to start the car. Did you replace the ECU ? yes .. now everything has fire . other then right at the injector plug. |
MHz User ID: 32332417 Canada 01/27/2013 02:15 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds and then reconnecting it. I had one vehicle (different than yours) that needed that because one sensor was blown and every time I shut it off it would not start again (but would turn over) until I did the disconnect thing. |
Useless Cookie Eater User ID: 29696048 United States 01/27/2013 02:16 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | NEW PROBLEM Quoting: SmellslikeDrama Ok What would cause the injectors to not be getting power? The wire harness that that leads to the injectors has fire. The car wants to start when using starter fluid. So its not getting gas.The fuel pump is working. I replaced the ecm and its all good. I cant get any fire on the injector plug while trying to start the car. Did you replace the ECU ? yes .. now everything has fire . other then right at the injector plug. If you have an old injector you can hook it up and crank the car to see if it is working, just like you can with a spark plug. I don't have any idea about Chrysler / Mopar alarm systems though. Last Edited by Useless Cookie Eater on 01/27/2013 02:16 PM |
DoomGod User ID: 25027150 United States 01/27/2013 02:17 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | mass air flow meter. [link to www.ehow.com] It's almost here.... |
SmellslikeDrama (OP) User ID: 1267719 United States 01/27/2013 02:17 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
MHz User ID: 32332417 Canada 01/27/2013 02:17 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
SmellslikeDrama (OP) User ID: 1267719 United States 01/27/2013 02:18 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | mass flow air meter or some name liek that - its normal, your car works one moment, and stops working the next moment, turn over for days, starts with starting fluid, and NO fuel given to engine (engine cannot sens air flow and does not know how much gas to mix into the stream of air it CANNOT SENSE anymore, so. it stops. Quoting: DoomGod mass air flow meter. [link to www.ehow.com] no shit? I did not know that. |
DoomGod User ID: 25027150 United States 01/27/2013 02:18 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |