Pull your own engine, fine, but please don't disassemble it before taking it to your rebuilder. Please?

I have to agree here, what a waste of resources.

"Who would ever have thought that a chevy V8 could be so complicated!"

NO...This is GLP DATA MINING...tptb will need mechanics to help build their 3rd riech....

If you knew shit about rebuilding an engine, the rods should be rebuilt or at least resized on the big end any way. Problem solved.

I wonder if they even make plastigauge sp? any more.

WTF did he just say.? Talkin that jibberish shit again.

[link to www.speedwaymotors.com]

I've been in repair and parts for 25 years. I always love hearing "It said this/that on the internet" The internet turning everyone into mechanics instantly. And yes, it does end up costing you twice as much to have someone go back and fix your mistakes.

The main caps ought to be a cinch to work out. As for the rod caps, if you're rebuilding the crankshaft (turning/new bearings), it isn't going to make a damned bit of difference.. I know, I know, it's supposed to, but it doesn't. The only reason the main caps have to go back where they were is to make sure the bore through is straight, otherwise you'll have bearings rubbing hard on the crankshaft main journals and it'll wear out quick, if it doesn't bind. With rods as long as none of them are damaged it's not going to matter. They're all bored to the exact same size and the quality control is pretty good. The only thing I will say is put the cap on the rod, tighten the cap bolts and see if there is a prominence where they join inside the journal. if not, you're all right.

I've always numbered them and put them back where they went, including an arrow pointing towards front of engine(even "good" mechanics forget this sometimes and that WILL ruin a job!)

Yes, and I wouldn't put a rebuilt crankshaft in without trying it. Sometimes there will be a mislabeled bearing and poof, it's all gone again.

Redundant, unless a rod has been knocking. Unless the engine has been really abused the rods will still be fine. On most jobs you'll have one rod knocking (usually the front) and that rod needs to be REPLACED with a new rod.If you've got several that were on worn out bearings, you can have them all resized and put matching oversize bearings on. At ever step where machining is involved there is the chance for error, and one .005 error means a crankshaft that runs a few minutes before it's shot again.

generally speaking the first method is better on your wallet and holds together better

a well trained eye can match up the big end caps and rods again.
also i hate hearing how different engines are now if you understand sensors and a CDI its the same engine as a late 90's.the computer does all the work i think they are easier now.

Actually stock SBC rods are forged and already fitted with 170Kpsi bolts. Pioneer bolts.

Only morans do rod work to a fine rod. This engine was running. Therefore no bad bearings. The rods wouuld get washed and that's it. I've built hundreds of engines this way. Btw..#5 rod is the lucky rod that usually goes due to being last to receive oil.

You have every right to go shill for Israel or catapult propaganda in ANOTHER THREAD.

Most of the time I would have sold him a 350 and could make it look like the original 307. But 307 only came with 2bbl. It'll be easier for me to pull a set of good used rods off the shelf for this job. These rods will get sized, bolts, shotpeened. Balanced. The bitch about this is you do all this work to stock forged rods, when you can buy aftermarket forged rods 190,000 bolts and floaters if you want for $125.00 new in the box.

Last Edited by TwentyTwenty on 05/23/2015 08:00 AM

Doesn't this potato fit in that shashawshing down there and make it vrooom?

hey, look on the bright side, you get to charge to resize the big-ends now.

I guess.

Sounds like the old screwdriver and claw hammer tear down.

Luckily, older small block Chevys are pretty forgiving.