Anyone use fully synthetic oils?

Chemical swelling

I converted my fleet to amsoil years ago and went from 2-3 engine replacements a year to none in 5 years. Synthetic is not thinner, it just doesn't thicken in the cold like regular oil. The leaks happen from the synthetic running cleaner and wiping away the gook or build up, but if the engine has been well maintained that buildup shouldn't be there. Cold starts are the worst wear on an engine and synthetic not thickening means it's getting through the oil journals immediately giving the best protection. Going to a thicker oil on modern engines to combat leaks is a bad idea because modern tolerances won't let the oil flow freely and it will miss critical wear parts in the amount necessary, even if the engine is worn in. I did a lot of research before switching and in my opinion mobil 1 is overrated. Go with amsoil or royal purple and you won't regret it.

^ don't listen to this. if you have hydraulic cam followers they wont be able to take in the oil and you will then have big problems.

guess

I wish people who only knew what they were talking about would comment, would save a lot of problems.

synthetic and mineral oil has nothing to do with the viscosity of the oil, either at temp or at startup.

they say synthetic oil doesn't break down as fast as mineral oil. but that's not really true either.

the difference between synthetic and mineral is one comes from oil the other is made.

Totally retarded answer.

whats the valvetrain look like under the cap? color wise?


why switch now?

I have a speedo

Oil is supposed to be changed every 3k miles or 3 months because it will breakdown with age. synthetic still needs to be changed with mileage but doesnt break down with age so I was told. I use synthetic in my 97 mustang and seals are fine. I rarely drive it so change oil every 2-3 years

Many engine manufacturers recommend that you DO NOT us synthetic during the break in period because your engine will never break in. That's how good it is.

With that said I run synthetic in everything I have. I never use conventional oil. The price is worth it if you own quality equipment.

I just turned a 100K on my wife's Land Rover LR3 and the engine is perfect. The exhaust, compression, and power are just like brand new.

I did buy a used Subaru Forester though with some miles on it. I use it as a winter commuter and when I started using synthetic it sprung a slight oil leak. But I like to tinker so if a seal or something was wearing out then I'd want to know about it anyway and the synthetic lets me find those weak points.

I run synthetic in my Honda XR650L Enduro and man it makes things smooth for a notoriously thumpy engine. It makes cold starts very easy. I bought it with 5000 miles from a buddy who did NOT use synthetic and I had no problems after making the switch.

I run the stuff in my lawn mower and my boat too. Synthetic oils are far and away superior. If you love your motors then definitely make the switch and fix any leaks that you MIGHT encounter.

I'm under such duress at this point I will have another beer and get back to you

so I guess the moral of the mellenium

is

when a had people have been had long enough

it is best to put them against another had people

in order to advance to the next level of had people

of those of mounted discourses of those thrive

With the miles you have you should just stick to fossil oil, and change it every 3-5k miles. Synthetic is good stuff but more so from the get go. The thing about synthetic is that it can handle greater extremes in temperature with out the viscosity breakdown, and it generally last twice as long at twice the price.

30 years in the automotive field.

Both my vehicles have in access of 150 thousand miles, my van, which I've had for ever. Is around 150 k on a rebuilt motor, had to replace the heads a year or so ago, and after a 100 or so thousand miles, everything look sweet, no carbon build up, pretty pistons. All it ever had was synthetic . And I'm a 55 year old dude that never lets his car warm too long 2-5 minutes and drives it like I want it to last for friggin ever...
And as I age, I try to feed my car and me the best..✌️

i argue with the jiffy lube guy about this all the time. syn oil has a higher flow rate, so i dont care for it.

you may want to rethink what happens to your oil over time.It becomes acidic over time,and acid eats metal, so not changing your oil is just stupid IMO.It dont matter how often you run it.

No i only like eatching racing on asphalt not dirt

I switched late.. not that late, but I can say this:

It makes a world of a difference especially towards the end of the oil change cycle. In fact I realize with newer cars, the high-mileages (8000-9000 miles) before an oil change only applies if you are using synthetic. And you can feel it. I would not try it w standard oil.

I recommend Penzoil Platinum.

I drive professionally and put ridiculous miles on my car.

I bought a 1913 S series Stanley for 1200$ and an original 1960 s batman lunchbox!

I bought a Miata on 10/2/2010. For the first 3 months I got about 26 mpg. I put full synthetic in engine, trans, and rear end, and have got 30mpg+ ever since. Last fill up, 9/12/2016, 30.38mpg.

Ok.....here's what I do....use a good quality oil and add one quart of synthetic. You end up with a blend which gives a little added protection and it's a lot cheaper. I still change oil every 3-4000 miles. I look at it as cheap protection. I use 10w-40 instead of that 5 or 10w stuff. My preferred oil is Castrol GT. As far as I know SN is the highest test rating and it is far superior to lower ratings they had even ten years ago.

I have 430K miles on my defunct Saturn wagon. Same engine, same transmission. Same Mobil 1 for the last 300K miles or so and now that its starting to burn around 3 quarts a month of oil I just keep adding the Mobil 1 probably until it gets to 500K and I probably won't change the oil filter either. Now who made that decision to let Saturns die?

The other interesting thing is that a few times I let the oil get a bit too low, you know past the end of the dipstick and she (the car) tells me when its time for more of that delicious crude down the hole. Its a strange humming sound that's kind of hard to describe. Kind of like a dynamo hum. Doing that is a good way to increase the piston to cylinder clearance kind of like precision grinding on the fly.

and I as lord would would ask

how cold was it when you start it


they say " colder than shit "

and I would answer

5 or 0

then I would say how hot does it get when you drive

they would say " it would be all sittin there idling away and then it would drive by itdelf to the nearest Texico station

Texico rhymes with mexico

i take it most dealers and oil change shops don't use full synthetic due to price

I've used nothing but synthetic now for the last 10-12 years. No leaks less oil changes and mostly very easy starting in our Minnesota cold winters. It doesnt "gel" like conventional oil in the cold and as such spins a lot faster when starting. 2 cars btw both over 100 k now.

I agree. Good luck cranking an engine in a cold climate running 20w50. You plan on running an oil heater, too?

As for the OP's question, its not recommended to switch to a full synthetic after many miles of a conventional oil. As a former lube tech, the consensus was unless you started with synthetic from the start, you should stick with the conventional oil.

Bad idea, you need lubrication at start up as well. Much wear will happen while that heavy oil heats up and starts to flow.

I drive a modern muscle car. Came with synthetic in it. It has a oil life monitor system. Determines change time based on operating conditions. I change it between 30 to 25% life left. Always ran good synthetic and a long life filter. have 130k miles. Runs like new, looks like new under the valve covers. Always run easy till warmed up.

Don't let Jiffy Clowns near your car.