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| The Antichrist 666 
I am who I am
User ID: 365261
5/14/2008 12:51 AM
 | | Re: Survival Kit For 2012 | Quote |
Now I need to recruit some professionals are you a hunter, nurse, fisherman, dishwasher!!!
I'm the one and only true ANTICHRIST!!! |
| Frigg Stuyvesant
User ID: 398933
5/14/2008 12:56 AM
 | | Re: Survival Kit For 2012 | Quote |
Dude You did it I think this is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you! Quoting: The Antichrist 666
I have more stuff if you are interested.Important info.
Sorry I didn't get back w/you on your book,I still want to read it. |
| The Antichrist 666
I am who I am
User ID: 365261
5/14/2008 1:01 AM
| | Re: Survival Kit For 2012 | Quote |
Dude You did it I think this is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
I have more stuff if you are interested.Important info.
Sorry I didn't get back w/you on your book,I still want to read it. Quoting: Frigg Stuyvesant
I'm definitely interested! I'll take whatever you got! knowledge is the key to survival! The book is always there i'll send you one for free anytime and a hoody like the one I'm wearing up top! ;{>
I'm the one and only true ANTICHRIST!!! |
| The Antichrist 666
I am who I am
User ID: 365261
5/14/2008 1:02 AM
| | Re: Survival Kit For 2012 | Quote |
I'm the one and only true ANTICHRIST!!! |
| Frigg Stuyvesant
User ID: 398933
5/14/2008 1:32 AM
| | Re: Survival Kit For 2012 | Quote |
Storage would not be complete without knowing the shelf life of your stuff! My last bit of new information for this thread. Hope you have gained something from it.
Shelf Life Guide:
Here is a list for foods stored at room temperature (70 degrees F). Remember that shelf life decreases by roughly 50% with every 20-degree increase in temperature.
The ideal storage temperature for most nonfrozen foods is around 35 – 40 degrees F. Remember, whenever possible, keep cool, dark, and dry (CDD).
Once a container is opened, the contents may not last long. I suggest dating containers with a grease pen, so you can change markings if the container is opened or reused.
Many dry or canned foods will last longer than their official shelf life, but can’t be relied on to last longer.
• Indefinite: Indefinite means that under the right conditions, these materials will last a very long time, possibly longer than you live. Honey, sugar, salt, soy sauce, apple cider vinegar, black pepper, Worcestershire sauce, and properly packaged wheat fall into this category.
• 5 to 10 years: Most dried legumes and most whole grains are in this category, as are dehydrated cheese, instant coffee, vacuum-packaged coffee, baking powder, powdered eggs, and frozen butter.
• Up to 5 years: Processed (partially hydrogenated) liquid vegetable oils, Crisco shortening, cornmeal and corn flour, and nonfat powdered milk.
• 2 to 3 years: Bouillon cubes, corn starch, white rice, powdered gelatin, white wheat flour, white flour pasta (dry), tapioca, textured vegetable protein (TVP), hydrogenated peanut butter, catsup, canned salmon and sardines, most other canned foods except for meats, some fish, and fruits. Sprouting seeds, such as alfalfa, mung, soybean, wheat, and so on, will keep for two to three years.
• Up to 18 months: Canned meats, canned seafood (halibut, mackerel, tuna, and shrimp), unshelled raw nuts, dry active yeast, bag-packaged snack chips, cake mixes, dry puddings, herb teas, black teas, bottled juices, most seasonings and extracts, jams and jellies, canned noncitrus fruits (blackberries, blueberries, cherries, pears, peaches, plums, etc…), cranberry sauce, pickles, canned rhubarb, and sauerkraut.
• 1 Year: Canned nuts, packaged dry breakfast cereals, rolled oats (oatmeal), bottled dressings, mayonnaise, natural liquid vegetable oils, candy bars, bottled juices (grapefruit, pineapple, apricot, and orange), most dried fruits, canned citrus fruits, and natural nut butters.
• 6 months: Most store-packaged food in boxes, fresh potatoes (keep cool, dark, and dry), granola, shelled raw nuts, and unshelled roasted nuts.
penguin
Repost: (+) THE ART OF THE (WEAPONS) CACHE (+)
www.sit-rep.com (defunct website?) ^ | March 1, 2001 | Travis McGee
Posted on 11/08/2006 7:21:48 PM PST by SW6906
This is a repost from 2001. Here is the original (locked) thread
Sad to say, the march of anti-constitutional laws continues to quicken the pace. Today tens of thousands of law abiding citizens face becoming "armchair felons" because they are not gullible enough to comply with mandatory registration and licensing of long owned firearms. Collectors have been raided on bogus pretexts, then arrested for "paper violations", and had their assets seized. It's a shame, but in many jurisdictions your AR-15 or SKS is an "outlaw rifle", and you are at risk every day that you keep it in your house. It is doubly a shame because these are exactly the types of arms the founding fathers were speaking of when they wrote the 2nd Amendment...
So if you will not register or turn in your weapons, and are reluctant to keep some of them in your house, what is to be done with them, to preserve them for use at some future date? Many folks just say "bury them" but this is simplistic and may be self defeating, for a buried gun may be rusted, forgotten, or paved over in time. The "art of the cache" is then the subject of this lesson.
First we must define a few terms, for there are several classes of caches. A fighting cache or ready cache is one where a rifle or other weapon is kept, sighted in and with the correct ammunition and cleaning gear, available on short notice. A long term cache should be able to lay undetected for years if need be. An Escape and Evasion cache will contain a complete getaway kit in addition to a firearm, against the day that the owner finds himself pursued by enemies.
An E&E cache will contain the items listed in Squantos' E&E kits, as well as hair dye, "instant tan" lotion, scissors, a razor, a nylon windbreaker and a hat for a quick appearance change. Cash, gold, a space blanket, a poncho for shelter and a pistol would also be included. All of these items can be kept in a .50 caliber metal ammo box available at any army surplus store.
What arms to cache? If you are considering caching any weapons, it makes sense to cache both your black "outlaw" firearms and your cheap surplus military rifles, the Enfields and SKS's and so on. The former may land you in legal trouble, the latter are inexpensive and may best prove their worth by waiting hidden and silent for the moment of need. Pistols also should be considered, particularly inexpensive surplus police revolvers. There is no other type of firearm which may be handed to a complete novice with confidence that the new shooter will be able to use it effectively on the first try, and you may someday be in the position of arming a complete novice. Millions of non-shooters may become ardent RKBA advocates in the years to come and you should consider arms for them as well as for yourself.
Where should you locate your cache?I will consider three broad areas: rural caches, urban caches, and underwater caches.
The Rural Cache: In the countryside, cache options abound far beyond the cliched hole in the ground, although that option is not to be left out! In the boonies, look for old private junkyards, every big farm has at least one on the back 40! Rusty forgotten tractors, cars, refrigerators and farm equipment are made to order, full of hidden nooks and crannies where a rifle or three may be inserted, yet remain readily available. Of course, hiding firearms in and around old iron negates the chance of technical detection. Abandoned farmhouses, barns, ruins, and foundations provide countless hiding places, as do small caves, worked out mines, and graveyards. And of course you can just bury your package, preferably near or around some clutter of old scrap metal to provide magnetic camouflage.
The Urban Cache: In cities and towns you must be a bit more creative to find a good cache location which will remain undisturbed for years. Abandoned factories and warehouses, forgotten steam tunnels, scrap yards and neglected corners of basements and attics of some buildings may be used. You need to find a quiet dark out of the way corner were you can remove some tile or blocks or panels to create a mini vault, then hide by replacing the cover. Old large diameter pipes or pump casings may be used as is. Sometimes it is possible to create a cache by adding a bogus utility box or fake run of pipe which has no other purpose than to look old and nasty, and hide a gun or two.
The Underwater Cache: Arms may be sealed into a PVC pipe, then sunk for a great cache. Ammo packed inside around the arms will provide enough weight to sink the tube. Tie a strong nylon or monofilament line around the middle of the pipe, and lower the cache under an old rotten abandoned dock or wharf. So much junk accumulates under old docks that one more slime and barnacle encrusted pipe section will attract no attention at all. Tie the top end of the line to a piling down under the waterline, the entire line will soon be so nasty that no one will ever touch it, except you!
Packaging the Cache: No matter where your cache will be located, you should go to great pains to make sure that it remains sealed and moisture proof. As mentioned, large diameter PVC pipe fits the bill perfectly. If you want access without cutting open the pipe, you can buy an end cap with a threaded center. For really long term storage, release the springs from your magazines and operating rods where possible. A chunk of dry ice dropped into a watertight package and allowed to "steam off" before sealing will purge out the rust producing oxygen. Store bought silica desiccant bags may also be used. Wherever ammo is stored, beware of using penetrating oils, as in time they may deaden the primers.
Plastic five gallon buckets with sealed lids may also be used, as well as heavy duty "white water rafting" bags, marine "flare kit" boxes and containers, surplus military ammo and ordnance boxes and many other types of containers. Where possible, for long term storage seal the lids with a bead of silicone glue.
Where tight cache space is a consideration, you may have to merely wrap your weapons in plastic. In this case use the biggest thickest heavy duty lawn and garden bags you can find. After placing the arms inside, suck out all the air you can, twist the end, put a few strong wires ties around the neck, fold it over, and put more wire around it again. Then do this again inside another bag. Long rifles which will not fit in a bag will have to be wrapped in industrial plastic sheeting, taped up, and kept in a fairly dry location. This type of packaging may be considered where a weapon may be in a "fighting cache", ready for use on short notice.
Locating Your Cache: Nothing is worse than stumbling around looking for a cache so well hidden that you cannot find it, so give a lot of thought to the landmarks you will locate it by, and write them down! Don't put the entire location on one piece of paper (for security), just the final directions which will not make sense if the paper is compromised. Remember, your cache area may look very different in different seasons, so choose landmarks which will stand out in summer foliage or winter snow. It is a good idea to take compass bearings from several permanent landmarks, as well as pacing the distances where possible. Or you may locate the cache by aligning it with an old wall, or between distinctive boulders, just make sure the features are permanent: bushes and gullies may disappear. Be alert to construction around your cache, and if the survey stakes go up, move it out ASAP. You may use GPS coordinates, but consider that GPS may be degraded or turned off at any time, and mark your location the "old fashioned way" first.
Cache Security: When you look for a cache location, consider that you will need a "cover for action" to explain your presence in the area. If you jog cross country, go on hikes, bike or four wheel drive you have it made. The cache location must have terrain or vegetation cover to conceal your loading and unloading it: forget the "cover of darkness", in this era of NVGs that is a thing of the past.
Before returning to a cache do some counter-surveillance: loop around the area looking for the "watchers" who may be staking it out, or a new "utility box" which may contain a remotely operated camera. When finally approaching the cache, don't go directly to it, first "fish hook" your trail, double back and observe your own path in to check for followers. Finally, walk right past your cache and make a "false unload". If you are taken down at this point, they may not find the true cache, and your "cover for action" (eg.: taking a leak on a routine hike) may pass muster. Only when you are truly sure of your safety should you go to the cache and unload it.
In addition, you should leave "tell-tales", small innoucuous secret marks which will tell you if anyone has disturbed and replaced your cache. It is a favorite trick of security forces to put tracking devices into cached weapons in order to follow the guerrilla back to his base and catch the entire band. A tell-tale may be a bit of thread or a pebble etc. placed in such a way that if the cache is disturbed it will break or fall out without the security forces noticing it.
In Summary: I hope this has been an informative and thought provoking article. Even if you do not think it is necessary to cache any weapons (or an E&E kit!) at this time, you will at least be able to take walks in the woods to scout out some likely sites for future use. Look for sites at various distances from your home from a short walk to a day's drive: don't keep all your eggs in one basket. It is a good idea to "load" a cache with some old tools just for practice. See if they rust, see if the local eleven year old boys find them, see if you can get in and out of the area without being seen. Practice makes perfect, so try some "dry runs" today so that you will be a seasoned pro if and when it becomes necessary to cache "the war iron" for real and for keeps.
And don't forget to BLOAT! Buy Lots Of Ammo Today! |
| Frigg Stuyvesant
User ID: 398933
5/14/2008 1:33 AM
| | Re: Survival Kit For 2012 | Quote |
BIONAID™ Silver Hydrosol vs Colloidal Silver Water
It should be made clear from the outset, the distinction between conventional Colloidal Silver and Covalent Silver is immense. Colloidal Silver can not be properly absorbed into the bloodstream and cells because its particles are many times larger than BIONAID™ covalent silver particles:
Undisputed facts about covalent silver:
• Permanently suspended by covalent fusion (UCLA and Southwest Labs).
• The Silver Atom is held in permanent suspension by the covalence of many Oxygen atoms and the covalence of a single Silver Atom.
• The orbiting electrons of a single Silver Atom wrap around the Oxygen Atom as the Hydrogen Atoms are being separated during the reaction. The Silver, now a covalent sub-nanoparticle, can then be ingested like any nutrient through the intestinal wall. This minute particle can travel in the blood stream and penetrate cell membranes (without damaging the cell). As a dietary supplement for supporting the immune system, one primary elimination process occurs when silver's positive charged electrons, orbiting past the covalently bonded Oxygen Atoms' nuclei to the outer side of the particle, make contact with a disease-causing micro-organism's negative charged electron (single). The charge of the overall Bion molecule becomes positive due to the ratio of positively charged protons in the nucleus of the oxygen atoms being greater than the number of electrons being shared amongst the other oxygen molecules, silver ion and covalent silver particles. This is one primary factor that speaks to the superior immune support aspects of BIONAID™ and its unique particle. Significantly more infectious micro-organisms (parasites) are dispatched on contact with our Bion particle, exponentially beyond inferior, non-covalently bonded, colloidal particles (whether they be colloidal silver proteins, "super" or any other colloidal silver products). If its not covalent bonded (specifically the type of covalent bond created by the covalent reactor), its not as effective, and "their can be only one" - Bion. The secondary technology used in BIONAID™ is the overall sub-nano-size of the entire water solution that makes our covalent silver's delivery system even more effective. BIONAID™ is not just a colloidal silver product.
Undisputed facts about colloidal silver:
• It is not an atomic reaction.
• It is too large to enter the blood stream through normal ingestion processes.
• It is a colloid by static bonding and will fall out of suspension at the slightest agitation.
• It often has approximately 3-5 days shelf life.
• Argyria is a potentially permanent side effect from excess consumption of colloidal silver, deposition of silver salts in the skin cause a permanent blue to bronze discoloration of the skin and mucosa that is darker in regions exposed to UV light. Argyria is an extremely rare occurrence and is seldom harmful; it is generally caused by the excessive consumption of home made colloidal silver or colloidal silver protein (CSP). covalent silver does not cause Argyria or any harmful side effects, and you are unable to overdose from its beneficial properties.
BIONAID™ is H2O, which is two Hydrogen Atoms sharing electrons with One Oxygen Atom. The Bion Reactor Strips Hydrogen Atoms which contain 1 Proton and 1 Electron from the Oxygen Atom making a positively charged Oxygen Ion +2 (it wants two electrons) Simultaneously Supercharged Negative Silver Ions (which have 47 electrons) and millions of electrons are created by the reactor (1M to 2M). Up to a million or so Oxygen Atoms immediately bond to each Silver Ion by grabbing two of the millions of electrons from the Silver Ion and sharing them with the Silver Ion as well as with other oxygen molecules already attached to the Silver Ion. The result is a clear liquid silver solution with an indefinate shelf-life that retains it effectiveness irregardless of sunlight or temperature. Bionaid contains several trace minerals, but the one focused on here is the covalent silver. BIONAID™ is under 3 ppm because is doesn't need to be higher to be the most effective silver solution.
As millions of positively charged oxygen atoms bond to the negatively charged silver ion the charge of the overall molecule becomes positive due to the ratio of positively charged protons in the nucleus of the oxygen atoms being greater than the number of electrons being shared amongst the other oxygen molecules and silver ion. The molecule therefore at any chance will continue to attract negatively charged electrons found in hostile organisms. Hostile, gram-negative Bacteria, Viruses, Molds etc. have one electron (-1) in their molecular makeup. They are therefore attracted to the Bion molecule and die once they contact the Bion molecule because the Bion molecule steals the electron from it changing its polarity and killing it in the process. As electrons are collected full oxygen atoms are released from the Bion molecule and the positive charge of the molecule is maintained. These molecules are permanently suspended in water and are not toxic to the body. Unlike a standard silver ion, which is missing one electron and will try to collect one electron before it is inert and no longer affective in killing bacteria or other harmful organisms, the Bion molecule can continue to attract millions of infectious organisms and continue to kill them. BIONAID™ could be used in research to treat malaria-infested ponds or other water supplies that are undrinkable and turn them into safe sources of water for millions who are currently drinking infected waters.
A simplified analogy (for legal reasons we must present this specifically as theoretical only) regarding the superior effectiveness of BIONAID™ over colloidal silver is as follows: A petri dish with a million infectious bacteria is the test subject. If a colloidal silver particle comes in contact with 15 of the infectious bacteria they will die, but normally no more than 15 because the colloidal silver particle has exhausted its electron potentials for eliminating infectious micro-organisms. A BIONAID™ particle, when placed in an identical petri dish with the same amount of infectious bateria, and if it comes into contact with the all the infectious bacteria it will kill all the infectious bacteria and sterilize the petri dish. One of the key attributes of the BIONAID™ particle is its covalent bond with millions of oxygen atoms and their electrons that extend the frequency of silver exponentially in addition to the electrons of the silver. Added to this is the particle size and the surface area contact potential. Bioactivity is rated as the amount of the positive charge held by a particle (molecule) which is the result of the presence of a greater number of protons than electrons in that molecule. The "best" form of a Colloidal Silver molecule has 15 more protons than electrons giving it a plus 15 rating, i.e, it can destroy fifteen bacteria/viruses etc., before loosing its bioactive properties. This is another reason BIONAID™ is superior - its high bioactivity levels are unmatched by other silver dietary supplements and their manufacturers
Foundation for Incurable Diseases
28 Overland Avenue, Cranston, RI 02910
(401) 942-8399 voice/fax -
please limit faxes to 2 pgs (no cover needed)
06 January 1998 Release No.: 980106
For Immediate Release:
CURE FOR AIDS AT HAND!
The Foundation for Incurable Diseases is pleased to announce it
has come to an agreement with Dr. Marvin Antelman of Antelman
Technologies, which will provide to those suffering from AIDS
a cure for little or no cost!
Dr. Antelman has developed Tetrasil (r) (tetrasilver tetroxide)
which is a patented bioinorganic antipathogenic molecular crystal
device. Tetrasil kills pathogens by electrocuting them!
Dr. Antelman, whose work throughout the years has varied from
innovative designs for nuclear submarine reactors and smart card
batteries, discovered that silver (Ag) actually is formed by Ag
and Ag3, and it is this discovery that lead him to the development
of Tetrasil. (Tetrasil is not colloidal silver.) Through the
construction of a molecular sized semiconductor, Dr. Antelman was
able to force natural silver (which is actually ag2) into its two
separate components of Ag and Ag3 and to keep them separate, thus
retaining the potential for an electron discharge. In layman's
terms, one section of the Tetrasil machine contains an extra
electron charge that desparately wants to cross to the other side,
but cannot due to the manner in which the molecular machine is
constructed. The molecular machine is, thereby, polarized and
charged, and remains so until triggered. The Tetrasil machine is
triggered when it comes into contact with a pathogen (thus the
reason for the name "anti-pathogenic molecular crystal device").
Pathogens (bacteria and virii alike) are drawn to the device by
strong covalent forces, and when they come into contact with the
machine they are locked into place by these forces. The extra
electron charge is then free to make its way to the other side of
the Tetrasil machine by traversing the cellular membrane of the
pathogen, which it immediately does. The 2 volt discharge
electrocutes the pathogen in the process. A chelation process is
triggered as a result and both the Tetrasil machine and the dead
pathogen bound to it are removed by the liver. The liver is
stressed, but not damaged.
Tetrasil is classed as an EPA Class IV substance - the SAFEST
rating available, which means it is safe for human consumption.
EPA Class IV status is equivalent to FDA Stage One approval.
Tetrasil has redefined the standards by which the govt. judges
efficacy against e-coli: nothing works faster and more effectively
than Tetrasil.
In human clinical AIDS trials, a SINGLE IV injection of Tetrasil
cured 8 of 10 terminal AIDS patients, who showed no sign of disease
one year after treatment. The two other patients succumbed due to
the damange already inflicted by the disease. It was too late for
them.
Tetrasil will be distributed:
- as a cure for FAIDS (feline AIDS - 30% of all cats suffer from
the disease) in the USA, for which FDA approval is not needed.
- as spray disinfectants and wipes
- as treatment for drinking water and waste water (no poisonous
chlorine needed any longer)
- as disinfectant for cooling towers (no more legionaires disease)
- AS A CURE FOR HUMAN AIDS
- and many other uses
Dr. Antelman turned down millions of dollars from an NIH associated
group that wanted all rights to Tetrasil because he knew they would
make the treatment too costly or suppress it altogether.
(Dr. Antelman knows how the system works and is disgusted by it.)
Tetrasil has the potential to cure practically all disease caused
by pathogens, from TB, to the common cold. Dr. Antelman, an
orthodox rabbi, is a righteous man, who seeks to help ease human
suffering, not profit from it. (Rabbi Marvin S. Antelman is
a member of The Supreme Rabbinic Court, aka 'the Sanhedrin',
the oldest established court in the world.)
The Foundation for Incurable Diseases needs public support to
bring this modern miracle to the people of the world.
The pharmaceutical industry is already rallying to stonewall
distribution of Tetrasil, because it will replace all their
poisonous (and highly profitable) treatments for AIDS -- all of
which will kill a healthy person. Help us fight the true killers
-- the pharmaceutical industry. More people die from treatment for
AIDS than from the disease itself. The time has come to cease this
nonsense.
No one need ever die of AIDS again.
For information, please write to the above address, or e-mail
eellinwood@aol.com
redheifer@juno.com
Edwin Ellinwood
FID Public Relations
THE ART OF ORIENTEERING
Christopher Nyerges
as written for:
Preparedness Journal,
P.O. Box 25454 Salt Lake City, UT 84125
When you mention the topic of orienteering, the eyes
of some people just glaze over. You know who I mean
-- the people who buy compasses but never learn how
to use them, or the folks who did poorly in math in
school.
But orienteering is actually something we do every
day. In the most general sense, it refers to the act
of getting somewhere by utilizing all possible signposts
-- whether natural or man-made. In the more specific
sense, orienteering refers only to the art of using
a map and compass.
Let's begin with some of the more general concepts
of orienteering. We'll work our way up to the map and
compass.
NATURAL NAVIGATION
There are many observations that we can make in nature
which help us to determine north, south, east and west.
However, one generally can't rely on just one of these
natural signs because there are always local exceptions
to the general rules.
For example, we've all heard that moss grows on the
north side of trees, right? But is that a fact? One
of my teachers, Abby Keith, who involved with Search
and Rescue teams in the Southern California area, would
say: "Yes, moss grows on the north sides of trees
... and the east side, and the west side, and the south
side." We'd all laugh, and he would point out
that in a dense forest, moss can grow entirely around
a tree, and that the value of moss as a direction finder
is very limited. Keith would say, however, that if
you are looking at a pine tree with moss on one side,
in a clearing, in California, then the moss is probably
on the north half of the tree. Still, the value of
such information is somewhat limited.
Sometimes the tips of trees can be observed in order
to gain a clue about your orientation. Typically, tips
of pines and hemlocks will point to the east. This
is due to a prevailing eastward wind which occurs at
higher elevations. But this is not a hard and fast
rule, and you must take all local conditions into account.
In canyons, the stronger wind will usually be the downdraft
at night, which generally causes the tips of the canyon
trees to point south. This is most readily observed
with willows and alders which grow right along streams.
But once again, canyons aren't all in neat north to
south lines, so you must make several such observations.
The entire sunflower family is so called because the
flowers typically follow the sun. They will face the
east in the morning, south at noon, and the west at
sunset. This is certainly worth noting. Also, the compass
plant, actually a wild lettuce within the sunflower
family, has leaves which point north and south at mid-day.
It actually faces the edges of its leaves to the sun
in order to conserve moisture.
American Indians have developed volumes of weather
lore and direction lore based upon the observation
of plants and animals. For example, spider webs face
generally to the south so that the spider can take
advantage of the warmth and dryness afforded by the
sun. Though woodpeckers will peck holes all around
a tree, native Americans long ago observed that the
pileated woodpecker pecks its holes predominantly on
the eastern sides of trees.
In California where there are many hills running east
and west, Chumash and other Indians observed that you
could tell direction by the "sound" of a
hillside. That is, the north side of such a hill would
be very quiet to walk on. This was because that was
the side of the hill mostly in the shade and where
water and snow were retained. The north face of the
hill generally had more ferns, moss, and trees and
was easily identified. The southern face of a hill,
on the other hand, was always exposed. There would
be less vegetation on the south face of a hill, and
it would be characterized by dry grass and crackling
dry twigs.
American Indians of the past, or people who spend a
lot of time outdoors, are often able to fairly accurately
determine directions based on their observation of
several of these signs.
NAVIGATION BY THE SUN
There is a simple way to determine the approximate
time by the sun. When I was first told about this method,
it was referred to as a "Navajo" method of
reckoning time. I have since heard it attributed to
at least a half-dozen other Indian tribes, probably
due to the fact that this was somewhat universally
practiced.
In fact, this method doesn't actually tell time. Rather,
it tells you how many hours you have left until sunset.
Face the western horizon and stretch out your hand
to the sun. Keep your arm straight but bend your hand
so that your palm faces the sun and your fingers are
horizontal. Tuck in your thumb. Align this one hand
with the sun, and then bring each hand below the other
in this fashion until you reach the horizon. Interestingly,
four fingers equals just about the space that the sun
travels in an hour. Thus, you can ascertain how many
more hours until sunset, or -- in ancient terms --
how many hands til sunset. This method is useful when
you need to stop work so many hours before dark, or
when you need to stop hiking and make camp while you
still have light. Be sure to reckon into this method
the fact that you still have usable light for approximately
45 minutes after the sun touches the horizon.
For directions, pioneers and Indians have long resorted
to driving a stake into the ground. This would be done
on flat ground on a sunny day. They would mark the
end of the stick's shadow with a pebble. After a short
while, they would place a second pebble at the tip
of the new shadow. A line drawn between these two pebbles
produces a fairly accurate east-to-west line.
In fact, many people who work outdoors develop a natural
sense of direction and time simply by regularly observing
the position of the sun throughout the day. The only
reason we have lost this ability today is that too
many of us have simply forgotten to use our powers
of observation when we use clocks and wear a watch.
We have traded our skills for the toys of technology.
Indian scouts in the old days would travel in a straight
line by locating specific landmarks, generally any
two or three objects in a straight line along the intended
path of travel. As each landmark is reached, you need
to look back to make certain you're still going straight,
and then pick out a new landmark. As simple as this
sounds, people get lost all the time in the woods because
they have the mistaken notion that they are able to
"naturally" walk in a straight line. Usually,
they can't or don't.
STAR NAVIGATION
Night navigation brings with it a whole new set of
problems and challenges. For one thing, you usually
can't see very well. However, it takes between 30 minutes
to an hour for most eyes to adjust to the dark, enabling
you to see in the dark as well as owls.
On the other hand, pray for a full moon.
In the northern hemisphere, the north star is probably
the single most important star that you should learn
to identify. Though not the brightest star in the sky,
all other stars have an apparent rotation around the
north star.
The north star is located by first finding the Big
Dipper, a group of seven stars formed like a bowl and
handle. The bowl of the Big Dipper has two bright stars
which are often referred to as the pointer stars because
they lie in a straight line with the north star. The
distance to the north star from the two pointer stars
is approximately five times the distance between the
two pointer stars.
There are many other easily-recognized groups of stars
that are worth learning to identify. The best book
on this subject that I've found is The Stars by H.A.
Rey.
THE MAP
OK, let's proceed to your map. For any serious work,
you want a topographical map produced by the U.S. Geological
Survey. Topographical maps indicate the rise and fall
of the land by means of parallel lines.
To get started, I recommend that you purchase a topographical
map of your own neighborhood. Take it home and lay
it out on a big table. Now study it. The map is akin
to an aerial photograph wherein every picture has been
"coded" for simplicity. For example, a single
dotted line is a hiking trail, and a double dotted
line is a dirt road. Buildings are black squares. Water
sources, such as lakes, streams, springs, etc., are
always in blue.
By simply observing a topographical map, and consulting
a key for any symbols you can't figure out, you'll
learn a lot.
You don't yet have a compass. What can you do with
just your map?
If you know your location on the map, you can find
the easiest route to another site simply by planning
your journey so that you stay more-or-less within the
parallel elevation lines. This means that you will
stay on fairly level ground. Once you align your map
to the terrain -- a simple task of simply turning your
map until it visually lines up with two or three prominent
local features -- you'll be able to "see"
what's beyond the distant hills.
Not sure exactly where you are? Find two or three obvious
tall markers, whether they are peaks, radio towers,
water towers, etc. When you have accurately adjusted
your map to the local terrain, take a pencil and draw
a line on the map from each of the distant markers
and extend it toward your presumed location. Where
the lines cross is your location.
THE COMPASS
OK, let's assume you purchased a compass but forgot
about the map. Bad choice! Generally, a map is much
more useful than a compass, and a map with a compass
is extremely useful. But a compass by itself is a bit
limited in its usefulness.
Of course, you can determine north with the compass,
but so what? The compass needle is pointing to magnetic
north, not true north. This difference -- which can
be over 15 degrees -- is referred to as declination.
How can you determine declination in the field with
just a compass? You can't! That's why you need a map.
However, there are some useful functions of only a
compass.
You can walk in a straight line using just the compass,
and you can do this in the dark or in thick fog. And
by simply turning your compass around, you can walk
back in a straight line the same way you came.
THE MAP AND COMPASS
I won't kid you here. To truly master the use of a
map and compass, you owe it to yourself to enroll in
a college course, or purchase a good book on the subject.
The best, in my opinion, is Be Expert With Map and
Compass, by Kjellstrom.
When you purchase a compass, you usually get a few
pages of fine print describing how to use that particular
compass, and how to use compasses in general. READ
ALL THAT LITERATURE UNTIL YOU UNDERSTAND IT WELL ENOUGH
TO BE ABLE TO DESCRIBE IT TO SOMEONE. This is very
important.
The type of compass I recommend is the orienteering
compass by Silva or Suunto. This has a rectangular
clear plastic base, and a round movable compass housing.
Usually, it is designed so you wear it around your
neck on a cord.
The compass allows you to quickly and easily align
your map so that the top of the map is at true north,
rather than the magnetic north at the top of your needle.
Once you have mastered the basics of using a map and
compass, here are some of the things you can do:
1. Find the shortest route to a particular point.
2. Find the easiest route around a mountain.
3. Chart a course to an unseen destination.
4. Chart a course that passes through various environments.
5. Choose a hiking path that allows you to stay on the
highest ground possible.
6. Choose a hiking route that avoids as much contact
with civilization as possible.
7. Go directly to the nearest water sources.
8. Go directly to the nearest structure.
9. Chart a safe cross-country, off-trail hike.
10. Go directly to the nearest road.
This is by no means a complete list. Once you learn
the basic task of aligning your map with the actual
terrain by adjusting for local declination, you'll
be able to gain great enjoyment from your new skill.
Nyerges has been conducting Wild Food Outings and Survival
Skills outings since 1974. A free copy of his schedule
of classes is available from Survival Services, Box
41834, Eagle Rock, CA 90041. He is the author of Guide
to Wild Food ($15), Testing Your Outdoor Survival Skills
($12), Wild Greens and Salads, and Urban Wilderness.
He and his wife publish the Talking Leaves Newsletter.
Preparedness Journal,
P.O. Box 25454 Salt Lake City, UT 84125
|
| Frigg Stuyvesant
User ID: 398933
5/14/2008 1:36 AM
| | Re: Survival Kit For 2012 | Quote |
-
WHAT TO STOCK UP ON IF YOU'RE SURVIVAL MINDED
- AND WHY.
SURVIVAL ITEMS - POST TEOTWAWKI SCENARIO
This list is also available in a zipped text (txt) version - use the button to
download.
There are many lists of survival items that should be acquired floating around,
but following one list not specifically designed for your situation and
location, to the tee,
can land you in a world of trouble.
If you think something is missing or have a suggestion
please email me, address embedded in copyright notice.
I welcome feedback about layout, spelling, fonts etc.
Different scenarios call for different stuff.
At the same time - depending too much on "gear" for survival can drastically
reduce your chances.Take GPS ( Global Positioning System - sat.nav.) for
instance - it's become popular in the last few years, and some people depend
solely on their Magellan for navigation.
What do they do when it breaks down or run out of batteries post TEOTWAWKI?
Substituting hitech gear for skill and knowledge _will_ hurt you in a high risk
post TEOTWAWKI scenario.
To take an example from my experience -
I went for a one month stay in a lavvo (Sami tent similar to Native American
Teepee) ,
in the north of Norway in 1996.
It was springtime, so the nights were cold and it rained a bit.
I bought a Camping Gaz butane stove for the trip - and since I had to travel
nearly 1.400 miles to get to my campsite, I planned on buying the butane in the
last city
I visited before heading for the hills.
I skillfully managed to FORGET to buy the butane.
I found out when I was unpacking at the campsite, 40 miles from the nearest
store.
I did however know how to make a decent campfire, so heating and cooking was not
a problem.
If I hadn't known how to do that I would have had to abort the adventure
immediately.
There are however some items that will enhance your quality of life
and increase you chances for survival.
I, for one, feel that having a few "luxury" items in a bad situation, will make
life easier, especially psychologically, which is of vital importance to your
survival.
If life in a TEOTWAWKI situation is rotten due to lack of 'entertainment' and
poor equipment,
you'll not be in a good position to keep yourself and your family alive and
well.
To take an example - in the Bosnian civil war the soldiers were given
chocolates and biscuits before and during combat/campaigns.
This was done to
a - give them quick access to sugars
b - increase morale ( mostly this )
and so increase their ability and will to fight.
Having spent considerable amounts of time in isolated areas and war zones
I've found that a few things are important to keep me from becoming too fed up -
having clean durable clothes, good boots, basic hygiene articles, tobacco,
coffee and a little candy - greatly improves my morale.
Since a post TEOTWAWKI situation requires that you go a long time without
resupply,
a cache of important items is vital, storing everything at the house is not
prudent,
armed looters / criminals will most likely have the run of the streets,
and transporting your sh*t to your destination can be a real bitch.
Caching is not sorcery, but it does require some thought and preparation.
First - HOW LONG MUST SUPPLIES LAST ?
You must know how long you want your supplies to last before you start buying
stuff.
Second - find out how the climate is at the location you have chosen for your
cache.
Third - check the rodent / wildlife situation.
Fourth - find containers that will keep your supplies dry and safe -
if you are storing food, the containers need to be made of food grade plastics
or metals
although metals might give you trouble with long term storage
( rust and general degeneration of containers )
Some plastics can't handle frost and some can't handle exposure to sunlight.
Give thought to the fact that rats and mice literally "eat plastics for
breakfast".
I have been thinking of getting wood transportation crates, dress them
internally with wire mesh
and store my stuff in custom made three layer aluminum bags with silica gel
inside.
The bags I get from Protective Packaging Ltd.
Proper Planning and Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance
- British SAS special forces " Seven P's " rule
So before you start buying / acquiring items, decide what scenario you are
preparing for
and take time to plan what and how much gear you need.
Do the necessities first, and leave the "luxury" items for later.
By luxury items, I mean items that we take for granted and enjoy everyday that
are not strictly necessary e.g.. candy, coffee, tobacco etc.,but which will be
next to impossible to find / get
after things go haywire.
Also - please read the disclaimer at the bottom of the page.
I must take time to point out that my emergency plans are somewhat affected
by sharing a border with Russia, and living just below the polar circle,
so I plan on having at least a years worth of supplies,
banking on about five months of winter with snow and subzero temps.
One last word of caution -don't try to buy everything you need at once -
unless you're rich it'll hurt you economically and thereby lower your morale
and willingness to prepare.
Quality is essential - test your equipment as soon as possible after purchase
On to the items
A small explanation to go with the lists -
I put the item first - then amount needed - then my comments as to why etc.
Clothing -
Good quality clothes are of vital importance.
You probably wont be able to get new clothes for a long time.
Being in non 'city' situation will cause more than normal 'wear and tear',
reducing the lifetime of your clothes and requiring more repairs.
Usually it's easier to repair quality clothes.
Quality and price do not always go hand in hand.
You'll need
Winter-
Warm camo trousers - two at least - for hunting / combat situations
Warm work trousers - two at least - buy tough farming or mil.surplus stuff.
Warm indoor trousers - two pairs - something warm and comfy for rainy days
indoors.
Warm winter jacket - one at least - to wear for normal 'non sweaty' outdoor
activity
Warm winter jacket - two at least - for outdoor ( sweaty ) work, should
have less insulation.
Warm winter jacket - two at least - ( camo ) for hunting / combat
situations.
USArmy surplus 'rip stop' clothes are good.
Wool pullovers - two at least - a must in cold weather areas.
Wool socks ( long type ) - seven pairs min. - wool insulates even when wet.
Wool scarves - two min. - you'll definitely loose one, it's a law of nature
Wool / fur headwear, cover ears - three -
you loose about 65 % of your body heat through the head.
Warm heavy duty work gloves - two pairs min. - protect your hands and fingers.
Warm normal wear gloves - two pairs min. -
Wind- / waterproof glove covers - two pairs min. - cold wet hands are unpleasant
to say the least, also to consider is the 'wind chill factor'
Wool underwear, long, top and bottom - two pairs very min. -use the layer system
to keep warm while not active.
Wool mittens - one pair min. - for the really cold days.
Warm shirts - five min. - for inside and short outdoors stuff.
Pullovers - two min. - for indoor and short outdoor wear.
Ear warmers - 1 pair min. - keep your ears warm, they freeze real easy
Neoprene face mask - 1 - saves your face on cold windy days.
Skimask, white - one min. - for winter camouflage and heating face.
White winter camo suit - one min. - so the enemy / foe doesn't see you until
it's too late.
Other stuff optional
Summer-
Heavy duty work trousers - three pairs min. - summer sees more wear than winter.
Indoor trousers / jeans - two pairs min. - for feeling normal inside the
shelter.
Camo rip stop trousers - two pairs - for hunting / combat sits.
Camo rip stop jacket - two - for hunting / combat sits.
Jacket, normal, 'civilian' - one very min. - for feeling normal around the
shelter.
Shirts, summer , long-sleeved - 5 min. - for normal days
T-shirts, short sleeve, 14 min. - two weeks worth
Hat / cap with eye shade - 2 min. - loosing one is easy, keep your head cool on
warm sunny days - heatstrokes aren't nice.
Heavy duty work gloves - two pairs min. - for heavy duty outdoor work
Normal gloves - one pair - for different normal activities.
Cutoff jeans or shorts - 2 - for warm normal days.
Other stuff optional
All year stuff-
Poncho, camo / olive drab - one min. - for hunting / combat situations
Warning - some gear makes a lot of noise when you're moving.
Sweatshirts / long sleeve t-shirts - 7 min. - you'll want clean shit next to
your body.
Shorts - 20 pairs very min- clean underwear is vital to hygiene
Socks, standard sports type - 20 pairs min. - as above, you'll loose some as
well.
Rain coat heavy duty - one - if you have skill / gear for repairs - if not buy
more.
Rain 'pants' heavy duty - two - if skills etc.
Other stuff optional.
FOOTWEAR
You will be counting on you feet getting you to wherever you want to go.
Somehow I don't see a lot of public transportation working.
Your feet are important - ask any infantryman and he'll tell you - "take care
of your feet"
Feet can take some hard beatings and bounce back after a few days of rest,
but if you want to do a lot of walking you _have_ to take care of them.
Your boots should be worn in _before_ you go on long treks.
The quickest way ( in case of hurry ) is to find a 'semi' swamped area
and run around in the mud and water for about an hour.
Make sure you move your feet in every considerable fashion.
Then _wear_ the wet boots for about two hours, give or take.(you can pour out
any water )
I have been ordered to do this by three different instructors in three different
armies.
When choosing boots buy QUALITY, it's so important,
'cause where are you going to find replacements post TEOTWAWKI, and who's going
to
fix your feet if the boots are wrong?
What to get-
Leather mountain / hiking boots - two pairs - any brand you're comfortable with
Heavy duty boots - one pair min. - for that heavy duty stuff you
don't want to bust your combat / hiking boots on.
Rubber boots - one pair min. - for those really wet days at camp -
no need to get your combat / hiking boots wet if you're just mucking about in
the rain.
Sneakers - two pairs min. - for doing light stuff around the shelter
If you're in a wooded / rocky area, sneakers really wont do outside,
they'll be busted in no time flat.
Other 'normal' shoes - two pairs - for inside, so you don't have to clean the
floor thrice a day ;)
- besides, it's nice with a feel of normality.
Skiboots/shoes - if you're planning on skiing.
A word or two on shoe maintenance.
Make sure you have some shoe / sole glue and heavy duty thread / needle if
repairs are necessary.
The most important aspect of shoe / boot maintenance however are two things,
1 - waterproof them the minute you take them home from the store,
don't use the synthetic spray stuff though, leather really hates that.
Use something like Mink Oil ( Kiwi ) or order 'Bjørnefett' ( name translates to
'bearfat' )
from Norway, Sweden or Finland - it really waterproofs. ( I can be of assistance
with this. )
Reapply waterproofing if you've been trekking / in combat for several 'wet'
days.
2 - polish them _everytime_ you use them, without exception.
If you are present or former mil. remember what your instructor at boot camp
shouted at you ; )
"Carry on" equipment
( in your pockets / webbing / shoulder at all times )
- Sort of the bug out bag's little brother the "the bug out pocketwear".
There are items that should be with you at _all_ times.
If you are armed you NEVER leave your weapon or your _filled_ mags.,
NEVER EVER.
In the French Foreign Legion, at boot camp, we were instructed to sleep with
our weapons inside our sleeping bags when we were in the field.
Some of the guys thought that was bull and just put their weapons under
their heads or beside them, the next day our lieutenant had a nice collection
of FAMAS'es ( French army assault rifle ), and the guys whose rifles they were
tried frantically to explain how this could be
( they had to carry rocks in their rucksack for the remainder of our hike ( 30
miles ) LOL
The morale is -
it's easy to take someone's weapon if that person is not vigilant.
Besides, if you are standing there chopping wood, some 10 / 20 yards
from your shelter (and your gun) and an armed looter or enemy pops up,
you are in deep trouble.
So - weapon with you at all times.
Other things to carry ( note that you only carry one item at a time
- the other is stored at the shelter or wherever as a replacement.)
This is meant as 'normal' carry, for hunting or combat other rules apply.
Sunglasses - two pairs - snow blindness is serious, you can get it in deserts
and by the sea
as well as in snow-covered areas - if you're alone and can't see you die.
Hunting / combat knife - two min. - they break or you'll loose one
Swiss Army knife - two min. - same as above
Toiletpaper - half a roll for short trips - using poison ivy has been known
to inflict some discomfort ; )
Water- / windproof matches - one box ( lots more at shelter) -
waterproof box as well, no need to take risks.
Leatherman tool or equivalent - one min. - it's handy as h*ll
Candy / sweets - a small box / bag ( lots more at the shelter)
- morale thing, don't eat all at once, save it for the times that matter.
Compass - two very min. - you carry it always you don't forget it when you're
out walking
- getting lost in the woods is real easy.
Emergency medical aid bag - one - see the section on medicine ( coming soon )
for details.
Sealable plastic bags - two min. ( lots more at shelter) - you _NEVER_ throw
wrappings
or other waste outside - it announces to the world that " here be people"
Watch - wristwatch or pocketwatch -
String or parachord - a zillion uses
Portable ashtray/container - one - if you're a smoker, no cigarette butts on the
trail
- cigarettes/tobacco will be in short supply, and valuable, so looters / enemies
will take risks obtaining some, beside telling everyone there are people with
resources here.
Same applies to candy wrappers.
Water canteen - one, quart size - water is vital in any situation
Water purification tablets - enough to cleanse 5 liters ( 2 quarts ) minimum -
no need to get sick.
Camo stick/makeup - one (more at camp) - get used to carry it always-
things that go wrong, usually go wrong very quickly
Extra laces for boots - one pair min. ( with tons more at the shelter ) -
Map of area
Needle, thread and extra buttons
Flashlight with fresh batteries - one min. - I use a Mini Mag with red-light
cover myself.
Pen / pencil and paper.
Your comm. gear if you've got any.
A whistle - great in emergencies - get the emergency type from hiking / trail
stores.
Small binoculars - one pair min. -
For winter areas -
Ice picks - two - bound together hung around neck - if you go through the ice,
you'll want to be
able to pull yourself out - get from ski stores.
Snowslide emergency line - long brightly colored line with bright cloth tied to
your body -
get from ski stores
Vitamin and other supplements
Getting scurvy is something people think happened only in the 'old days', but it
is caused by
a lack of certain vitamins that we normally get from the vegetables in our diet.
In a post TEOTWAWKI scenario vegetables might be hard to find, so a supply of
vitamin
supplements / tablets is __vital__ to your health.
If you don't have vitamin supplements at hand, vegetables / roots are important
- buy a book
on herbs and their usage.
Don't ignore vitamin supplements - they will likely save your health.
Mineral supplements are important as well, your post TEOTWAWKI diet will most
likely
leave a few things to be desired.
Iodine tablets - speak to your local pharmacy regarding dosage - a must have in
a nuclear
scenario.
You'll get vitamin and mineral supplements in any drugstore.
Buy enough for one year minimum - wont cost you too much
Armament
DISCLAIMER - READ
Weapons and explosives are thoroughly regulated by law - ask your local law
enforcement agency what you're allowed to have.
Remember that explosives and munitions are _dangerous_ , don't do anything
you're not
trained to do. You'll find lots of recipes for explosives on the net, and most
of them
are extremely unstable and dangerous ( as well as illegal ) - no cooking in the
kitchen.
Store explosives, weapons and ammo in a safe place where children can't get at
them.
Don't break the law - serving time in the State Pen' is not good survival
preparation.
Nitroglycerin based explosives such as Dynamite ( tm. ) do not store well, the
nitroglycerin
will in time leak from the sticks and cause a hazard as well as rendering them
inert.
The most stable explosives are the plastique kind - but they are very illegal :
(
To the armaments -
Not the easiest subject, there are as many opinions as there are armed men and
women.
I won't go into caliber, loads or manufacturers,
but instead look at what _type_ of armament is necessary.
Other questions are - what experience do you have?, what can you carry and use?,
what is the layout of your campsite/shelter?, what weapons are useful and which
are not?, what will the enemy have?
and last but not least - can you repair your weapons?
Normally you'd need -
One assault rifle - with one identical in reserve for parts or in case the main
weapon breaks beyond repair, having a stash of spare parts is highly
recommended.
One shotgun - solid heavy duty quality stuff / or a bunch of cheap ones.
One hunting rifle, preferably with silencer - hunting animals for food.
One sidearm - large caliber type - you need a manstopper, a .22 just doesn't do
the trick.
One machine-gun - this one is optional - but having a M60 protecting your camp /
shelter is far
superior than having just a shotgun : )
A crossbow might also be a good investment - you get a really silent and
efficient weapon.
Buy lots of arrows though - you'll lose plenty.
Handgrenades - you can make crude ones if you can get your hands on some
explosives,
and you should try to get hold of as much explosives as possible.
With mil. grade explosives you can also make crude but effective claymores.
Don't be cooking them in your home though, it's only for people who know
_excactly_ what they're doing ( and it's illegal ).
Enough ammo to last you a year, split it up and store separately to reduce the
odds
of loosing all.
Cleaning kits, oils and pads - keep your weapons clean if you expect to use
them,
if you don't expect to use them, don't get any.
Have spare parts available for all your weapons.
Again quality is important, you'll be asking a lot of your weapons.
Navigation
Here skills come into play, a map and a compass have no purpose if you can't
read either.
Learn now.
What you need is -
Three sets of maps of the area you are in - waterproofed -store the copies in
different locations
Two compasses minimum - see entry in "carry on" list.
An analog wristwatch might also be used for navigational purposes.
Metal needles - for an improvised compass, explanation will be coming soon
in the 'What to do' section
GPS will likely be of little use, they depend on satellites and batteries.
Growing you own food
Growing your own food may become necessary in this scenario, it is likely that
food supplies will be way down,
and those who have will charge exorbitant prices for food, especially fresh
vegetables and meats.
Growing food is no easy task however, so reading up on farming and animal
husbandry
as soon as possible is advised.
Another trick is to start a small vegetable garden at you house, or another
place,
so that you can experiment with different seeds, fertilizers, tools etc.
You'll make mistakes and learn from them - I certainly have.
If your scenario dictates that you must grow veggies in a forested area or
any area with an animal presence to speak of, you must also learn to protect
your vegetables from animals and bugs.
Remember that birds will be gunning for your seeds, rabbits for you cabbage,
mice for the roots and deer etc. for everything.
I have read that using 'onion tea' ( cut onions into small pieces and put in
boiling water,
let stand off the heat for 20 minutes and pour / spray over vegetables when
sufficiently chilled )
will chase away bugs and prevent fungi growth.
Peeing around the boundary of the garden will also scare some animals away.
If you have fruit trees planted at your site you'll want to protect your produce
from birds,
this can be done by covering the tree(s) with nylon netting.
On another website ( I forget which, if you know please tell me so I can give
credit )
it was recommended to put sheets of fence netting on the ground to keep legged
animals from approaching the tree - remember that metal gives off a nice
signature to surveillance planes : (
Building a greenhouse is not a good idea, as it will announce your presence to
both planes and people.
( Reflection of the glass. )
To the items -
Shovel / spade - two - sturdy types for digging - make sure you have spare
handles,
they do break.
Small gardening type spade - one min.( two recommended ) - for the small
delicate jobs
( weeding etc.).
Small steel / iron rake ( big if it's a large area ) - one min. - for turning
the earth
and general maintenance
Fertilizer - lots if you're not keeping animals as well - any scraps from meals
go into
a compost heap.
Seeds - lots of different types, buy more than you need - they'll be in short
supply and valuable.
Wire / nylon netting - enough to cover your growth area twice -
protect your veggies from birds and animals. ( sink metal netting about half a
meter into
the ground surrounding you garden to keep rodents away. )
( not if you're growing grain over a large area of course - only meant for
vegetable gardens ).
If you think irrigation might be necessary get some ordinary garden hose with
sufficient length,
put a tract ( or the top half of a plastic sodabottle ) at the 'receiving' end
of the hose and cover it with wire mesh to prevent large objects from getting
stuck in your hose.
Pesticides - for emergency spraying if necessary.
A hand operated mill if you're growing grain ( remember spare parts )
Remember to clean your tools and keep them from rusting.
There are lots of other tools that might be useful to you, so experiment and see
what kind of farming you'll want to do, these items are the bare necessities.
Hygiene
Good hygiene is vital to your health and survival - you want to live?
-> you keep clean and sanitary.
Doctors and dentists will be in short supply and pulling your own teeth without
anastaethic
is an experience that leaves something to be desired.
Brush your teeth thoroughly twice a day. Use mouthwash which kills bacteria.
Keep your 'family jewels' clean and dry, infections require antibiotics which
will be hard to get, applies to both men and women.
Your shelter and your cooking / eating utensils should be clean to prevent
bacterial / fungi growth.
Items -
Washing brush , plastic kind - 6 min. - one for every two months -
do not use cloth for washing dishes - it is a 'germ breeding ground' of
gargantuan proportions.
Dishwashing detergent - enough to last a year + 5 bottles (0,5 liter) -
look at how much you're using now if you wash dishes by hand.
Chlorine - one one liter bottle per person per month - kill those germs before
they take you
( soak your brush regularly in chlorine solution to kill any germs / fungi ).
Cloth cleaning detergents - enough to last a year + 10 lb. - clean your clothes
often to prevent disease and degradation of cloth ( soil and sand etc. grind
away at your clothes ),
clean underwear is vital to keep disease at bay.
Lice treatment - enough for 20 treatments per person per year - you will most
likely encounter the lice problem in this scenario - treat them immediately.
Soap for personal hygiene - one large bar per person per week + 10 in reserve
per person
( get the unperfumed kind - perfumed soap used in a river will carry it's smell
and bubbles
for a good distance ) - learn how to make your own soap and stock up on
ingredients.
Shampoo - a luxury item, get what you feel necessary or use soap bars - keep
hair short to prevent lice, bacterial growth and fungi.
Toothbrush - one per month per person - change often, but keep the discarded
ones in case
you run out of fresh brushes, can be used for weapon/equipment cleaning as well.
Toothpaste - one tube per person per week + 20 in reserve - cut open when you
can't squeeze any more out, there's always some more in the tube.
Towels small ( dishwashing ) - 12 - use towels to dry the dishes, remember to
soak in chlorine solution often to prevent germ growth.
Towels large ( personal hygiene ) - 6 per person per year - clean often,
chlorine treatment.
Q-tips - two per person per day + 200 in reserve - keep you ears clean ( can be
used for weapons cleaning as well ).
Rat poison ( or traps ) - enough for a year - keep mice and rats far away from
your shelter
Nailclippers - 4 - keep nails short to prevent disease ( and destruction of
socks ; )
Fly strips or killers - enough for a year - a fly infested kitchen is not
healthy.
A dirty clothes hamper - keep dirty clothes away from clean clothes and cooking
areas -
clean with chlorine once in a while.
Toilet paper - two rolls per week per person and same amount in reserve - it'll
be one
of the first things that people run out of and dearly missed by those people.
Sanitaries for women - double one year supply - another item that will be dearly
missed by the female population.
Scrub for washing floors - two - keep floors clean
Cloth for washing floors - three -
Detergent for floors - one year supply -
Bucket for washing floors - two -
Bucket for clean water - three - separate by marking your buckets.
Sink or container for dishwashing - one -
Large container for washing clothes - one min.
Container for garbage - one - keep in shed or similar to keep animals away -
clean tin cans and bottles for reuse.
Clothes line - 10 + 10 meters -
Moth balls - lots - don't let moths eat your clothing and linen.
Tweezers - 2 min. - to remove splinters, wasp stingers etc.
Shaving gear for men - optional, but beards require cleaning every day to
prevent sickness.
Burn discarded wrappers, Q-tips, etc. outside for sanitary reasons, unless you
like charcoal
bugs in you hair of course ; )
At the shelter / camp
I have decided to divide this into two sections, one for necessities and one for
'luxury' items.
You'll be wanting a safe, comfortable, and practical shelter for yourself and
you group,
some items are of absolute necessity and other are less vital but still
important to keep
morale and a sense of normality.
Bare necessities -
TOOLS
Ax large type - two min. - 4 extra handles, they do break.
Saw large type - one min. - 5 extra blades and extra screws and bolts.
Spade - see growing food section -
Shovel for snow - 1 min - 2 extra handles - for snowy areas.
Hammer solid, heavy duty type - 1 min.
Hammer small type - 1 min. - for minor repairs
Screwdrivers - look at the equipment you'll be having and find out
which screwdrivers you need.
Nails large >2 inches - 200 -
Nails large >4 inches - 100 -
Nails small <2 inches - 100 -
Rope, heavy duty type - 100 meters - ( lots )
Rope, thin nylon - 200 meters ( lots )
Wire cutters - 1 min. -
Wire - 300 meters ( lots ) - can be used for a multitude of purposes
Plastic sheet, heavy duty - 40 square meters min. -
Canvas - 40 square meters min. - a million uses.
Pliers - one min. - not Leatherman (tm.) variety, much more solid.
Screws, large type - 50 min. -
Work knife, heavy duty solid stuff - 1 min. -
Butcher knifes - 2 sets min. - if you're planning on hunting.
Tape measure - two - plastic type, metal rusts.
Anti rust spray - 4 cans min. -
Bricks - lots and lots - only if you can transport them easily.
Cement - same as above
Wheelbarrow - 1 - extra wheel, extra bolts/screws
Metal bucket - 1 - for (re)moving hot ash 'n' stuff.
Plastic buckets - see HYGIENE section.
Super glue - 3 tubes - repairs
Ordinary woodglue - lots - used for tons of stuff, furniture etc.
If you can, store a decent supply of 'pre-chopped' firewood at the bugout
location.
Water containers - enough to store fifty liters per person - keep clean
Bedsheets - 4 sets per person per year - make proper beds, sleeping a year in a
sleepingbag is
not sanitary or good for morale.
Pillows - two per person per year -
Duvets, or covers for warm areas - two per person per year - clean as often as
possible.
Blankets - two per person per year - you can substitute one for reindeer or
other large furs.
Leather thick >2 mm. - lots - for all sorts of repairs,
Plates - two large, two small ones, and two soup bowls per person per year min.
Cups plastic - two per person per year + 4 extra in reserve -
Knife, fork, spoon, teaspoon - three of each per person per year - are easily
lost
Coffee- / tea kettle - one large min. -
Sieve - two - one fine mesh and one with larger holes
Large ( soup ) spoons - three -
Pots and pans - two large pots, two smaller pots, one very large pot, and two
pans.
Frying pan - one -
Breadknife - two -
Meatknife - two -
Vegetable knife - two -
Tin opener - two -
Normal baking utensils - two sets -
Bowls for baking, mixing etc. - four min.
Stainless steel sheets ( 40 X 40 cm min. ) - two - make your own oven, or bake
bread over fire
Oven, solid type - one -
Pipe for smoke from oven / fireplace ( metal )- one -
Lighting and fire - see section Lights / Fire.
Small plastic containers - 15 - to store different small things in a dry
environment
Normal size plastic / metal containers or sealable jars for food storage.
Large plastic containers - equipment storage - adjust to your amount of
equipment.
Plastic bags - lots -
Animal traps - read books on trapping in _your area_ before buying any.
Fishing rod - two - if there's fish close by.
Fishing reel - two - if there's fish close by.
Fishingline and lures / hooks - lots - if there's fish close by.
Fishnet - two - if there's fish close by.
Read up on fishing if you don't fish.
For winter -
Skis, ski poles and snowshoes - two pairs per person - keep lots of replacement
ski tips
( the curly things in front ; ) learn to ski if you don't know how.
Ski wax - one winter worth of supplies.
Field manuals and books - you decide what you need - different areas etc.
Pens - 100 -
Notebooks / pads - 20 min. - keep a journal, especially of things that break and
how you fixed them.
Paper - a box of 1000 sheets min. -
Binoculars large - one pair min -
FM / short-wave radio - two - find out what's happening in the world - needs
batteries -
solar powered chargers available.
Solar powered radios are also available, and won't kill your economy.
Non vital items -
Books or other reading material - lots - good for morale - don't get bored
Board games - good for morale if you're more than one
Playing cards -
Furs - keep warm and cozy -
Toys for the kids
Pictures on the walls
Camera and film - record your life -
Darkroom equipment and chemicals - so that you can develop your own photos -
learn __before__ buying.
Mattresses -
Still - make your own booze : )
Smoking oven - smoked meat lasts longer than fresh.
Flower seed - plant some flowers outside to make the place nicer.
Solar panel - have electricity all the time, here in Norway they cost 1.000
USDollars a pop.
Wind / water mill for electricity.
Fires / light
You need fire for warmth, cooking and cleaning.
You need lights.
Be careful with fires and fuel - do not burn down your shelter -
do not leave a fire or burning candles.
Candles - as many as possible min. 700 - better than relying on stored fuel,
but buy the paraffin/wax based ones, the other kinds rot quickly ( yuuch ).
Matches - one box per two days - buy some waterproofed ones as well,
seal in metal boxes inside plastic bags.
Emergency firestarters, paraffin, magnesium etc. - not all people can make
a fire with one match in all circumstances.
Oil lamp - three - replacements for all parts.
Oil for lamp - 50 / 100 liters -
Butane / propane stove / lamp - one - with replacement parts.
Butane / propane gas for stove / lamp - lots - take care with storage
If you have the possibility to store large amounts of propane you can
get a propane refrigerator : ) - no kidding, we have one in our summer cottage.
Flashlight - two - replacement parts - need batteries though - there are solar
powered
battery chargers on the market.
Oven in section above.
Medical supplies. |
| Insomnia
User ID: 432584
5/14/2008 1:44 AM
 | | Re: Survival Kit For 2012 | Quote |
auntie christ...for some odd reason i KNEW there would be a picture on here of you. you really want people to know you well don't you? lol
i just hope that your cabin is safe and doesn't fall victim to a forest fire.
i am in the medical field and i have been studying some books that are used when people are in places with no medical help like small villages in remote places. it's called "when there is no doctor" i have it on pdf if anyone is interested. it is basic first aid using natural means.
"survival and austere medicine" is a good list of safe herbs to use for different ailments, that are easily found in nature.
another good book i have is "tools for the gridcrash" about water collection, cooking without being 'found out' like hiding the smoke, cooking in trees that kind of thing, really valuable information. so many ideas i can't even begin to list them.
and the last book i have right now is "water storage"
if you are interested in obtaining this information please email me little.fluffy.clouds@hotmail.com
these are very important books to have printed out so that if you ARE stuck without your 'kit' and find yourself alone out there with nothing, you can at least utilize your surroundings to survive. |
| The Antichrist 666
I am who I am
User ID: 365261
5/14/2008 2:02 AM
| | Re: Survival Kit For 2012 | Quote |
auntie christ...for some odd reason i KNEW there would be a picture on here of you. you really want people to know you well don't you? lol
i just hope that your cabin is safe and doesn't fall victim to a forest fire.
i am in the medical field and i have been studying some books that are used when people are in places with no medical help like small villages in remote places. it's called "when there is no doctor" i have it on pdf if anyone is interested. it is basic first aid using natural means.
"survival and austere medicine" is a good list of safe herbs to use for different ailments, that are easily found in nature.
another good book i have is "tools for the gridcrash" about water collection, cooking without being 'found out' like hiding the smoke, cooking in trees that kind of thing, really valuable information. so many ideas i can't even begin to list them.
and the last book i have right now is "water storage"
if you are interested in obtaining this information please email me little.fluffy.clouds@hotmail.com
these are very important books to have printed out so that if you ARE stuck without your 'kit' and find yourself alone out there with nothing, you can at least utilize your surroundings to survive. Quoting: Insomnia
I was looking at that as I scrolled down thinking, I must be the only one who post pictures of himself, how foolish! I love seeing everyone elses picture and I do want people to see I'm just like everyone else, besides the whole Antichrist thing! LOL I do want that info so I'll email you! I knew that glp would be perfect for digging up this info! I'm gonna put it in a binder and have it at the cabin! ;{>
I'm the one and only true ANTICHRIST!!! |
| The Antichrist 666
I am who I am
User ID: 365261
5/14/2008 2:05 AM
| | Re: Survival Kit For 2012 | Quote |
-
WHAT TO STOCK UP ON IF YOU'RE SURVIVAL MINDED
- AND WHY.
SURVIVAL ITEMS - POST TEOTWAWKI SCENARIO
This list is also available in a zipped text (txt) version - use the button to
download.
There are many lists of survival items that should be acquired floating around,
but following one list not specifically designed for your situation and
location, to the tee,
can land you in a world of trouble.
If you think something is missing or have a suggestion
please email me, address embedded in copyright notice.
I welcome feedback about layout, spelling, fonts etc.
Different scenarios call for different stuff.
At the same time - depending too much on "gear" for survival can drastically
reduce your chances.Take GPS ( Global Positioning System - sat.nav.) for
instance - it's become popular in the last few years, and some people depend
solely on their Magellan for navigation.
What do they do when it breaks down or run out of batteries post TEOTWAWKI?
Substituting hitech gear for skill and knowledge _will_ hurt you in a high risk
post TEOTWAWKI scenario.
To take an example from my experience -
I went for a one month stay in a lavvo (Sami tent similar to Native American
Teepee) ,
in the north of Norway in 1996.
It was springtime, so the nights were cold and it rained a bit.
I bought a Camping Gaz butane stove for the trip - and since I had to travel
nearly 1.400 miles to get to my campsite, I planned on buying the butane in the
last city
I visited before heading for the hills.
I skillfully managed to FORGET to buy the butane.
I found out when I was unpacking at the campsite, 40 miles from the nearest
store.
I did however know how to make a decent campfire, so heating and cooking was not
a problem.
If I hadn't known how to do that I would have had to abort the adventure
immediately.
There are however some items that will enhance your quality of life
and increase you chances for survival.
I, for one, feel that having a few "luxury" items in a bad situation, will make
life easier, especially psychologically, which is of vital importance to your
survival.
If life in a TEOTWAWKI situation is rotten due to lack of 'entertainment' and
poor equipment,
you'll not be in a good position to keep yourself and your family alive and
well.
To take an example - in the Bosnian civil war the soldiers were given
chocolates and biscuits before and during combat/campaigns.
This was done to
a - give them quick access to sugars
b - increase morale ( mostly this )
and so increase their ability and will to fight.
Having spent considerable amounts of time in isolated areas and war zones
I've found that a few things are important to keep me from becoming too fed up -
having clean durable clothes, good boots, basic hygiene articles, tobacco,
coffee and a little candy - greatly improves my morale.
Since a post TEOTWAWKI situation requires that you go a long time without
resupply,
a cache of important items is vital, storing everything at the house is not
prudent,
armed looters / criminals will most likely have the run of the streets,
and transporting your sh*t to your destination can be a real bitch.
Caching is not sorcery, but it does require some thought and preparation.
First - HOW LONG MUST SUPPLIES LAST ?
You must know how long you want your supplies to last before you start buying
stuff.
Second - find out how the climate is at the location you have chosen for your
cache.
Third - check the rodent / wildlife situation.
Fourth - find containers that will keep your supplies dry and safe -
if you are storing food, the containers need to be made of food grade plastics
or metals
although metals might give you trouble with long term storage
( rust and general degeneration of containers )
Some plastics can't handle frost and some can't handle exposure to sunlight.
Give thought to the fact that rats and mice literally "eat plastics for
breakfast".
I have been thinking of getting wood transportation crates, dress them
internally with wire mesh
and store my stuff in custom made three layer aluminum bags with silica gel
inside.
The bags I get from Protective Packaging Ltd.
Proper Planning and Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance
- British SAS special forces " Seven P's " rule
So before you start buying / acquiring items, decide what scenario you are
preparing for
and take time to plan what and how much gear you need.
Do the necessities first, and leave the "luxury" items for later.
By luxury items, I mean items that we take for granted and enjoy everyday that
are not strictly necessary e.g.. candy, coffee, tobacco etc.,but which will be
next to impossible to find / get
after things go haywire.
Also - please read the disclaimer at the bottom of the page.
I must take time to point out that my emergency plans are somewhat affected
by sharing a border with Russia, and living just below the polar circle,
so I plan on having at least a years worth of supplies,
banking on about five months of winter with snow and subzero temps.
One last word of caution -don't try to buy everything you need at once -
unless you're rich it'll hurt you economically and thereby lower your morale
and willingness to prepare.
Quality is essential - test your equipment as soon as possible after purchase
On to the items
A small explanation to go with the lists -
I put the item first - then amount needed - then my comments as to why etc.
Clothing -
Good quality clothes are of vital importance.
You probably wont be able to get new clothes for a long time.
Being in non 'city' situation will cause more than normal 'wear and tear',
reducing the lifetime of your clothes and requiring more repairs.
Usually it's easier to repair quality clothes.
Quality and price do not always go hand in hand.
You'll need
Winter-
Warm camo trousers - two at least - for hunting / combat situations
Warm work trousers - two at least - buy tough farming or mil.surplus stuff.
Warm indoor trousers - two pairs - something warm and comfy for rainy days
indoors.
Warm winter jacket - one at least - to wear for normal 'non sweaty' outdoor
activity
Warm winter jacket - two at least - for outdoor ( sweaty ) work, should
have less insulation.
Warm winter jacket - two at least - ( camo ) for hunting / combat
situations.
USArmy surplus 'rip stop' clothes are good.
Wool pullovers - two at least - a must in cold weather areas.
Wool socks ( long type ) - seven pairs min. - wool insulates even when wet.
Wool scarves - two min. - you'll definitely loose one, it's a law of nature
Wool / fur headwear, cover ears - three -
you loose about 65 % of your body heat through the head.
Warm heavy duty work gloves - two pairs min. - protect your hands and fingers.
Warm normal wear gloves - two pairs min. -
Wind- / waterproof glove covers - two pairs min. - cold wet hands are unpleasant
to say the least, also to consider is the 'wind chill factor'
Wool underwear, long, top and bottom - two pairs very min. -use the layer system
to keep warm while not active.
Wool mittens - one pair min. - for the really cold days.
Warm shirts - five min. - for inside and short outdoors stuff.
Pullovers - two min. - for indoor and short outdoor wear.
Ear warmers - 1 pair min. - keep your ears warm, they freeze real easy
Neoprene face mask - 1 - saves your face on cold windy days.
Skimask, white - one min. - for winter camouflage and heating face.
White winter camo suit - one min. - so the enemy / foe doesn't see you until
it's too late.
Other stuff optional
Summer-
Heavy duty work trousers - three pairs min. - summer sees more wear than winter.
Indoor trousers / jeans - two pairs min. - for feeling normal inside the
shelter.
Camo rip stop trousers - two pairs - for hunting / combat sits.
Camo rip stop jacket - two - for hunting / combat sits.
Jacket, normal, 'civilian' - one very min. - for feeling normal around the
shelter.
Shirts, summer , long-sleeved - 5 min. - for normal days
T-shirts, short sleeve, 14 min. - two weeks worth
Hat / cap with eye shade - 2 min. - loosing one is easy, keep your head cool on
warm sunny days - heatstrokes aren't nice.
Heavy duty work gloves - two pairs min. - for heavy duty outdoor work
Normal gloves - one pair - for different normal activities.
Cutoff jeans or shorts - 2 - for warm normal days.
Other stuff optional
All year stuff-
Poncho, camo / olive drab - one min. - for hunting / combat situations
Warning - some gear makes a lot of noise when you're moving.
Sweatshirts / long sleeve t-shirts - 7 min. - you'll want clean shit next to
your body.
Shorts - 20 pairs very min- clean underwear is vital to hygiene
Socks, standard sports type - 20 pairs min. - as above, you'll loose some as
well.
Rain coat heavy duty - one - if you have skill / gear for repairs - if not buy
more.
Rain 'pants' heavy duty - two - if skills etc.
Other stuff optional.
FOOTWEAR
You will be counting on you feet getting you to wherever you want to go.
Somehow I don't see a lot of public transportation working.
Your feet are important - ask any infantryman and he'll tell you - "take care
of your feet"
Feet can take some hard beatings and bounce back after a few days of rest,
but if you want to do a lot of walking you _have_ to take care of them.
Your boots should be worn in _before_ you go on long treks.
The quickest way ( in case of hurry ) is to find a 'semi' swamped area
and run around in the mud and water for about an hour.
Make sure you move your feet in every considerable fashion.
Then _wear_ the wet boots for about two hours, give or take.(you can pour out
any water )
I have been ordered to do this by three different instructors in three different
armies.
When choosing boots buy QUALITY, it's so important,
'cause where are you going to find replacements post TEOTWAWKI, and who's going
to
fix your feet if the boots are wrong?
What to get-
Leather mountain / hiking boots - two pairs - any brand you're comfortable with
Heavy duty boots - one pair min. - for that heavy duty stuff you
don't want to bust your combat / hiking boots on.
Rubber boots - one pair min. - for those really wet days at camp -
no need to get your combat / hiking boots wet if you're just mucking about in
the rain.
Sneakers - two pairs min. - for doing light stuff around the shelter
If you're in a wooded / rocky area, sneakers really wont do outside,
they'll be busted in no time flat.
Other 'normal' shoes - two pairs - for inside, so you don't have to clean the
floor thrice a day ;)
- besides, it's nice with a feel of normality.
Skiboots/shoes - if you're planning on skiing.
A word or two on shoe maintenance.
Make sure you have some shoe / sole glue and heavy duty thread / needle if
repairs are necessary.
The most important aspect of shoe / boot maintenance however are two things,
1 - waterproof them the minute you take them home from the store,
don't use the synthetic spray stuff though, leather really hates that.
Use something like Mink Oil ( Kiwi ) or order 'Bjørnefett' ( name translates to
'bearfat' )
from Norway, Sweden or Finland - it really waterproofs. ( I can be of assistance
with this. )
Reapply waterproofing if you've been trekking / in combat for several 'wet'
days.
2 - polish them _everytime_ you use them, without exception.
If you are present or former mil. remember what your instructor at boot camp
shouted at you ; )
"Carry on" equipment
( in your pockets / webbing / shoulder at all times )
- Sort of the bug out bag's little brother the "the bug out pocketwear".
There are items that should be with you at _all_ times.
If you are armed you NEVER leave your weapon or your _filled_ mags.,
NEVER EVER.
In the French Foreign Legion, at boot camp, we were instructed to sleep with
our weapons inside our sleeping bags when we were in the field.
Some of the guys thought that was bull and just put their weapons under
their heads or beside them, the next day our lieutenant had a nice collection
of FAMAS'es ( French army assault rifle ), and the guys whose rifles they were
tried frantically to explain how this could be
( they had to carry rocks in their rucksack for the remainder of our hike ( 30
miles ) LOL
The morale is -
it's easy to take someone's weapon if that person is not vigilant.
Besides, if you are standing there chopping wood, some 10 / 20 yards
from your shelter (and your gun) and an armed looter or enemy pops up,
you are in deep trouble.
So - weapon with you at all times.
Other things to carry ( note that you only carry one item at a time
- the other is stored at the shelter or wherever as a replacement.)
This is meant as 'normal' carry, for hunting or combat other rules apply.
Sunglasses - two pairs - snow blindness is serious, you can get it in deserts
and by the sea
as well as in snow-covered areas - if you're alone and can't see you die.
Hunting / combat knife - two min. - they break or you'll loose one
Swiss Army knife - two min. - same as above
Toiletpaper - half a roll for short trips - using poison ivy has been known
to inflict some discomfort ; )
Water- / windproof matches - one box ( lots more at shelter) -
waterproof box as well, no need to take risks.
Leatherman tool or equivalent - one min. - it's handy as h*ll
Candy / sweets - a small box / bag ( lots more at the shelter)
- morale thing, don't eat all at once, save it for the times that matter.
Compass - two very min. - you carry it always you don't forget it when you're
out walking
- getting lost in the woods is real easy.
Emergency medical aid bag - one - see the section on medicine ( coming soon )
for details.
Sealable plastic bags - two min. ( lots more at shelter) - you _NEVER_ throw
wrappings
or other waste outside - it announces to the world that " here be people"
Watch - wristwatch or pocketwatch -
String or parachord - a zillion uses
Portable ashtray/container - one - if you're a smoker, no cigarette butts on the
trail
- cigarettes/tobacco will be in short supply, and valuable, so looters / enemies
will take risks obtaining some, beside telling everyone there are people with
resources here.
Same applies to candy wrappers.
Water canteen - one, quart size - water is vital in any situation
Water purification tablets - enough to cleanse 5 liters ( 2 quarts ) minimum -
no need to get sick.
Camo stick/makeup - one (more at camp) - get used to carry it always-
things that go wrong, usually go wrong very quickly
Extra laces for boots - one pair min. ( with tons more at the shelter ) -
Map of area
Needle, thread and extra buttons
Flashlight with fresh batteries - one min. - I use a Mini Mag with red-light
cover myself.
Pen / pencil and paper.
Your comm. gear if you've got any.
A whistle - great in emergencies - get the emergency type from hiking / trail
stores.
Small binoculars - one pair min. -
For winter areas -
Ice picks - two - bound together hung around neck - if you go through the ice,
you'll want to be
able to pull yourself out - get from ski stores.
Snowslide emergency line - long brightly colored line with bright cloth tied to
your body -
get from ski stores
Vitamin and other supplements
Getting scurvy is something people think happened only in the 'old days', but it
is caused by
a lack of certain vitamins that we normally get from the vegetables in our diet.
In a post TEOTWAWKI scenario vegetables might be hard to find, so a supply of
vitamin
supplements / tablets is __vital__ to your health.
If you don't have vitamin supplements at hand, vegetables / roots are important
- buy a book
on herbs and their usage.
Don't ignore vitamin supplements - they will likely save your health.
Mineral supplements are important as well, your post TEOTWAWKI diet will most
likely
leave a few things to be desired.
Iodine tablets - speak to your local pharmacy regarding dosage - a must have in
a nuclear
scenario.
You'll get vitamin and mineral supplements in any drugstore.
Buy enough for one year minimum - wont cost you too much
Armament
DISCLAIMER - READ
Weapons and explosives are thoroughly regulated by law - ask your local law
enforcement agency what you're allowed to have.
Remember that explosives and munitions are _dangerous_ , don't do anything
you're not
trained to do. You'll find lots of recipes for explosives on the net, and most
of them
are extremely unstable and dangerous ( as well as illegal ) - no cooking in the
kitchen.
Store explosives, weapons and ammo in a safe place where children can't get at
them.
Don't break the law - serving time in the State Pen' is not good survival
preparation.
Nitroglycerin based explosives such as Dynamite ( tm. ) do not store well, the
nitroglycerin
will in time leak from the sticks and cause a hazard as well as rendering them
inert.
The most stable explosives are the plastique kind - but they are very illegal :
(
To the armaments -
Not the easiest subject, there are as many opinions as there are armed men and
women.
I won't go into caliber, loads or manufacturers,
but instead look at what _type_ of armament is necessary.
Other questions are - what experience do you have?, what can you carry and use?,
what is the layout of your campsite/shelter?, what weapons are useful and which
are not?, what will the enemy have?
and last but not least - can you repair your weapons?
Normally you'd need -
One assault rifle - with one identical in reserve for parts or in case the main
weapon breaks beyond repair, having a stash of spare parts is highly
recommended.
One shotgun - solid heavy duty quality stuff / or a bunch of cheap ones.
One hunting rifle, preferably with silencer - hunting animals for food.
One sidearm - large caliber type - you need a manstopper, a .22 just doesn't do
the trick.
One machine-gun - this one is optional - but having a M60 protecting your camp /
shelter is far
superior than having just a shotgun : )
A crossbow might also be a good investment - you get a really silent and
efficient weapon.
Buy lots of arrows though - you'll lose plenty.
Handgrenades - you can make crude ones if you can get your hands on some
explosives,
and you should try to get hold of as much explosives as possible.
With mil. grade explosives you can also make crude but effective claymores.
Don't be cooking them in your home though, it's only for people who know
_excactly_ what they're doing ( and it's illegal ).
Enough ammo to last you a year, split it up and store separately to reduce the
odds
of loosing all.
Cleaning kits, oils and pads - keep your weapons clean if you expect to use
them,
if you don't expect to use them, don't get any.
Have spare parts available for all your weapons.
Again quality is important, you'll be asking a lot of your weapons.
Navigation
Here skills come into play, a map and a compass have no purpose if you can't
read either.
Learn now.
What you need is -
Three sets of maps of the area you are in - waterproofed -store the copies in
different locations
Two compasses minimum - see entry in "carry on" list.
An analog wristwatch might also be used for navigational purposes.
Metal needles - for an improvised compass, explanation will be coming soon
in the 'What to do' section
GPS will likely be of little use, they depend on satellites and batteries.
Growing you own food
Growing your own food may become necessary in this scenario, it is likely that
food supplies will be way down,
and those who have will charge exorbitant prices for food, especially fresh
vegetables and meats.
Growing food is no easy task however, so reading up on farming and animal
husbandry
as soon as possible is advised.
Another trick is to start a small vegetable garden at you house, or another
place,
so that you can experiment with different seeds, fertilizers, tools etc.
You'll make mistakes and learn from them - I certainly have.
If your scenario dictates that you must grow veggies in a forested area or
any area with an animal presence to speak of, you must also learn to protect
your vegetables from animals and bugs.
Remember that birds will be gunning for your seeds, rabbits for you cabbage,
mice for the roots and deer etc. for everything.
I have read that using 'onion tea' ( cut onions into small pieces and put in
boiling water,
let stand off the heat for 20 minutes and pour / spray over vegetables when
sufficiently chilled )
will chase away bugs and prevent fungi growth.
Peeing around the bo |
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