Recession proof GLP Things that might aid you in turbulent uncertain times

get moving people thats a pretty good list ihave been at it for over a year and it takes a lot of time to compile.

.. and you don t have much time. so double speed.

You look like you got it going on there in the woods.

I tip my hat to you..Smart.

:Frigg:

I need two machetes. My swords will do if they have to. But they aren't nearly the same.

who frigg?

the savior, or the closet we get. for now.

closets are very important. Almost noone sees them except for the trained ones.

Rule #1: Keep your preparedness plans to yourself

Rule #2: Avoid using credit cards. Leave as little paper trail as possible. You never know who's tracking your credit card purchases.

Never paint a big red target on your back

Guerrilla gardening. A big, out in the open garden is equal to painting a big red target on your back. Learn to plant various crops, spread them out over large, hidden, out of the way spots.

XLR8 you are always thinking..


He is 100% correct.
I should have posted that at the beginning!

Yeah, it is that time again.

People of the world...

IMPORTANT WEAPONS CACHING INFO
Quote

This is some useful info if the New World Order somehow succeeds in banning guns in the U.S. by using the Virginia Tech massacre as a catalyst.

Hiding guns in your house won't be good enough since the police state thugs who will come to confiscate your guns will have metal detectors and will tear apart your house and your property looking for guns.

If you hide your weapons in undisclosed caches for later use, this will intimidate police state thugs and foreign troops from taking action against the American people in a future "Red Dawn" scenario which is now being incrementally implemented every day with new gun laws, the construction of police state control grids, police state crackdowns and martial law.

Everybody who wants to keep their guns and defend America should make copies of this.

------

WEAPONS CACHING(from defunct site sit-rep.com)

Sad to say, the march of anti-constitutional laws continues to quicken the pace. Today tens of thousands of law abiding citizens face becoming "armchair felons" because they are not gullible enough to comply with mandatory registration and licensing of long owned firearms. Collectors have been raided on bogus pretexts, then arrested for "paper violations", and had their assets seized. It's a shame, but in many jurisdictions your AR-15 or SKS is an "outlaw rifle", and you are at risk every day that you keep it in your house. It is doubly a shame because these are exactly the types of arms the founding fathers were speaking of when they wrote the 2nd Amendment...

So if you will not register or turn in your weapons, and are reluctant to keep some of them in your house, what is to be done with them, to preserve them for use at some future date? Many folks just say "bury them" but this is simplistic and may be self defeating, for a buried gun may be rusted, forgotten, or paved over in time. The "art of the cache" is then the subject of this lesson.

First we must define a few terms, for there are several classes of caches. A fighting cache or ready cache is one where a rifle or other weapon is kept, sighted in and with the correct ammunition and cleaning gear, available on short notice. A long term cache should be able to lay undetected for years if need be. An Escape and Evasion cache will contain a complete getaway kit in addition to a firearm, against the day that the owner finds himself pursued by enemies.

An E&E cache will contain the items listed in Squantos' E&E kits, as well as hair dye, "instant tan" lotion, scissors, a razor, a nylon windbreaker and a hat for a quick appearance change. Cash, gold, a space blanket, a poncho for shelter and a pistol would also be included. All of these items can be kept in a .50 caliber metal ammo box available at any army surplus store.

What arms to cache? If you are considering caching any weapons, it makes sense to cache both your black "outlaw" firearms and your cheap surplus military rifles, the Enfields and SKS's and so on. The former may land you in legal trouble, the latter are inexpensive and may best prove their worth by waiting hidden and silent for the moment of need. Pistols also should be considered, particularly inexpensive surplus police revolvers. There is no other type of firearm which may be handed to a complete novice with confidence that the new shooter will be able to use it effectively on the first try, and you may someday be in the position of arming a complete novice. Millions of non-shooters may become ardent RKBA advocates in the years to come and you should consider arms for them as well as for yourself.

Where should you locate your cache?I will consider three broad areas: rural caches, urban caches, and underwater caches.

The Rural Cache: In the countryside, cache options abound far beyond the cliched hole in the ground, although that option is not to be left out! In the boonies, look for old private junkyards, every big farm has at least one on the back 40! Rusty forgotten tractors, cars, refrigerators and farm equipment are made to order, full of hidden nooks and crannies where a rifle or three may be inserted, yet remain readily available. Of course, hiding firearms in and around old iron negates the chance of technical detection. Abandoned farmhouses, barns, ruins, and foundations provide countless hiding places, as do small caves, worked out mines, and graveyards. And of course you can just bury your package, preferably near or around some clutter of old scrap metal to provide magnetic camouflage.

The Urban Cache: In cities and towns you must be a bit more creative to find a good cache location which will remain undisturbed for years. Abandoned factories and warehouses, forgotten steam tunnels, scrap yards and neglected corners of basements and attics of some buildings may be used. You need to find a quiet dark out of the way corner were you can remove some tile or blocks or panels to create a mini vault, then hide by replacing the cover. Old large diameter pipes or pump casings may be used as is. Sometimes it is possible to create a cache by adding a bogus utility box or fake run of pipe which has no other purpose than to look old and nasty, and hide a gun or two.

The Underwater Cache: Arms may be sealed into a PVC pipe, then sunk for a great cache. Ammo packed inside around the arms will provide enough weight to sink the tube. Tie a strong nylon or monofilament line around the middle of the pipe, and lower the cache under an old rotten abandoned dock or wharf. So much junk accumulates under old docks that one more slime and barnacle encrusted pipe section will attract no attention at all. Tie the top end of the line to a piling down under the waterline, the entire line will soon be so nasty that no one will ever touch it, except you!

Packaging the Cache: No matter where your cache will be located, you should go to great pains to make sure that it remains sealed and moisture proof. As mentioned, large diameter PVC pipe fits the bill perfectly. If you want access without cutting open the pipe, you can buy an end cap with a threaded center. For really long term storage, release the springs from your magazines and operating rods where possible. A chunk of dry ice dropped into a watertight package and allowed to "steam off" before sealing will purge out the rust producing oxygen. Store bought silica desiccant bags may also be used. Wherever ammo is stored, beware of using penetrating oils, as in time they may deaden the primers.

Plastic five gallon buckets with sealed lids may also be used, as well as heavy duty "white water rafting" bags, marine "flare kit" boxes and containers, surplus military ammo and ordnance boxes and many other types of containers. Where possible, for long term storage seal the lids with a bead of silicone glue.

Where tight cache space is a consideration, you may have to merely wrap your weapons in plastic. In this case use the biggest thickest heavy duty lawn and garden bags you can find. After placing the arms inside, suck out all the air you can, twist the end, put a few strong wires ties around the neck, fold it over, and put more wire around it again. Then do this again inside another bag. Long rifles which will not fit in a bag will have to be wrapped in industrial plastic sheeting, taped up, and kept in a fairly dry location. This type of packaging may be considered where a weapon may be in a "fighting cache", ready for use on short notice.

Locating Your Cache: Nothing is worse than stumbling around looking for a cache so well hidden that you cannot find it, so give a lot of thought to the landmarks you will locate it by, and write them down! Don't put the entire location on one piece of paper (for security), just the final directions which will not make sense if the paper is compromised. Remember, your cache area may look very different in different seasons, so choose landmarks which will stand out in summer foliage or winter snow. It is a good idea to take compass bearings from several permanent landmarks, as well as pacing the distances where possible. Or you may locate the cache by aligning it with an old wall, or between distinctive boulders, just make sure the features are permanent: bushes and gullies may disappear. Be alert to construction around your cache, and if the survey stakes go up, move it out ASAP. You may use GPS coordinates, but consider that GPS may be degraded or turned off at any time, and mark your location the "old fashioned way" first.

Cache Security: When you look for a cache location, consider that you will need a "cover for action" to explain your presence in the area. If you jog cross country, go on hikes, bike or four wheel drive you have it made. The cache location must have terrain or vegetation cover to conceal your loading and unloading it: forget the "cover of darkness", in this era of NVGs that is a thing of the past.

Before returning to a cache do some counter-surveillance: loop around the area looking for the "watchers" who may be staking it out, or a new "utility box" which may contain a remotely operated camera. When finally approaching the cache, don't go directly to it, first "fish hook" your trail, double back and observe your own path in to check for followers. Finally, walk right past your cache and make a "false unload". If you are taken down at this point, they may not find the true cache, and your "cover for action" (eg.: taking a leak on a routine hike) may pass muster. Only when you are truly sure of your safety should you go to the cache and unload it.

In addition, you should leave "tell-tales", small innoucuous secret marks which will tell you if anyone has disturbed and replaced your cache. It is a favorite trick of security forces to put tracking devices into cached weapons in order to follow the guerrilla back to his base and catch the entire band. A tell-tale may be a bit of thread or a pebble etc. placed in such a way that if the cache is disturbed it will break or fall out without the security forces noticing it.

In Summary: I hope this has been an informative and thought provoking article. Even if you do not think it is necessary to cache any weapons (or an E&E kit!) at this time, you will at least be able to take walks in the woods to scout out some likely sites for future use. Look for sites at various distances from your home from a short walk to a day's drive: don't keep all your eggs in one basket. It is a good idea to "load" a cache with some old tools just for practice. See if they rust, see if the local eleven year old boys find them, see if you can get in and out of the area without being seen. Practice makes perfect, so try some "dry runs" today so that you will be a seasoned pro if and when it becomes necessary to cache "the war iron" for real and for keeps.
-------

WEAPONS CACHING
[link to members.aol.com]

First: We recommend that you use a surplus military container. These have seals on the ends and a purge valve also. Second best is PVC pipe. We recommend the thick wall white PVC.If this is not available use the regular black pipe. The end caps with gasket seals are best but more costly but seal the best. If you have to use the plain end caps make sure you put pipe cement everywhere as if is very hard to seal these caps and not have a pin hole leak. Remember if you have a pin hole leak you treasures are junk. This is why we recommend using our NoRust Bags. You can put your weapons in a NoRust bag (one per item) and fold the end of the bag over four or more times on a 3/4" fold and duct tape all the way around. Next put this inside another NoRust Bag and do the same. Why two? It's just cheap insurance. DO NOT use any plain plastic bags as they will draw condensation. Put all your stuff into the tube. You can use desiccant bags in the tubes on the outside of the NoRust Bags. If you happen to put a hole or tear in the NoRust Bag you can just put duct tape over the hole. We recommend that you bag every item separately that you put into tube.

Planting:

We recommend planting in an upright position (vertical) as this makes it much harder to detect. Dig down 18" below length of tube. You can cover with something heavy or we like buying steel ball bearings and throw them around everywhere. When you step on them they go into the ground and makes metal detection virtually impossible. This drives them nuts! They can't dig everywhere! Just make sure you make a good map so you can find them!




Survival sites
Quote

Medical/Dental/ Etc.

[link to www.hesperia] n.org/publicatio ns_download. php#wtnd

[link to healthwright] s.org/books/ WTINDentistonlin e.htm

[link to www.healthwr] ights.org/ books/WTINDonlin e.htm

[link to www.desertus] a.com/mag98/ dec/stories/ water.html

[link to www.equipped] .com/fm21- 76.htm

[link to www.stevequa] yle.com/News. alert/05_ Prep_tips/ 041129.RV. for.3.html

[link to www.stevequa] yle.com/index1. html

[link to www.survival] -center.com/ dl-list/dl1- toc.htm




I remember reading Peter Capstick Hathaway talking about having to burn the privy when a Black Mamba took up residence there. The biggest bummer was the loss of the toilet seat. Pretty ubiquitous, but try sitting on a piece of plywood with your bare ass... A 5gal paint bucket with the appropriate sized trash liner with some kitty litter will make a decent toilet. Supposedly Cabellas sells a toilet seat that fits a bucket. Chemical toilets are pretty decent. With end of RV season you might find chemicals on closeout. Thetford is the best.

Probably brown, green, or camo is the best choice for plastic tarps. The heavy duty ones will wear very long time. 6mil plastic or even 4mil is also super for building or patching with. The very thin plastic floor padding makes a great insulation material if sandwiched between two tarps and sewn so it won't shift around.

The only place to buy junk tents is at the resale shop. If you pay $5-$10 for them, you get your money's worth. I did get a Eureka Timberline in like new condition for $25 once. They are Very Nice. Wenzel is also a good tent you might find at Wally's. The NorthFace VE25 is about the best backpacking/mountaineering tent ever designed for 4 season use. You might also find a USGI 4pc sleep system. The GoreTex bivy, compression bag plus light & med wt synthetic sl bags that nest make for a very workable 4 season solution. Not like you can lay in a puddle and not get wet, but goretex is pretty decent stuff. About $100 used, $165 new for one of these. You might find the camo bivy sacs on Ebay for $25-$50.

Hardware is great to have.
A good selection of decking screws in all lengths will enable you to fasten stuff securely and then retrieve your screws later on. Heavy duty galvanized lag screws will hold really heavy stuff in place. They go on quick with a ratcheting socket wrench and could enable fast shelter building in the woods. With an axe, saws and a couple of wedges you could be making timbers or even a log home. Chainsaw is even better. A 16-20" bar with 3/8" pitch chain is a real workhorse that will really earn its keep. Stihl or Husqvarna are the best makes. Poulan is supposedly Husky's cheaper brand.

You might consider fastener systems also. A hammer-tacker stapler is a super tool for rigging plastic sheeting. Adhesives in various formulas come in caulking gun tubes and make application very clean and easy. The big caulking guns really enable big jobs to go fast. You might think about keeping some cheap-0 Wally World sillicone sealant. Then there is gasket maker material.

Where does it end? Well, you have to realize if you can't fix stuff you have to adapt it. A tube of sillicone will go a long way if you don't have RTV.

Great idea on the Refugee Kits, Enigma!

Bump with addition from other thread
Many good thoughts here, Stuey
Esp 30 friends being more important than 30 guns...
Thirty provisioned and prepared friends/alllies, eh?
======================================================

Lester User ID: 637798 3/19/2009 1:18 AM
Re: THE ONLY survival book you will EVER NEED Quote

I can endorse the USAF Survival Handbook.

Bought one last Summer while in town at a Barnes & Noble. Kind of a rarity for me to waste time in a bookstore, but for $15 and with the info it contained, a great reference.

Found the Army manual on Survival Evasion and Escape some years back in a thrift store. The USAF manual is way better.


Might want to also pickup some of the Tom Brown Handbooks and a book or two about making trapping sets; but the basics are all in the USAF Survival Handbook, and the price is right!

Bushcraft is a paperback that you might find around. Shows a lot of illustrations of lashing timbers, making cordage etc.

www.survival.com is a great site. Ron Hood has done countless videos on survival topics. Hood has Hood's Woods forum which discusses many of his works and other practical survivalism topics.

Kurt Saxon put together timeless information in the 80s. The Survivor and Poor Man's James Bond are worth owning.


Lots of survival info in Cresson Kearny's book Nuclear War Survival Skills. Lots of improvised sheltermaking and what you need to come through a nuke strike.

Probably want to see if your local library has a book on local edible plants. Color illustrations are always nice, if you wonder whether eating a berry might make you sick. Mostly you can eat what the birds eat.


If I were stockpiling food, I would buy all the whole grains, organic if possible, I could; including a variety of beans and legumes like lentils. Large restaurant supply containers of cooking herbs, Olive oil, Mazola corn oil, crisco, a couple of grain mills, a Katadyn Expedition Water Filter w/3gal reservoir, and lots of zip loc baggies and plastic storage jars w/lids. Canning jars, lids and seals plus a Ball Blue Book and a large and medium pressure cooker.

Brown rice, hard red winter wheat, rolled or stone cut oats, corn, grits, and McCormick soup base in Chicken and Beef, plus all the canned tomatoes, tomato paste, canned meats, soup, beans vegetables, sugar, flour, tea/coffee, raisins and other dried fruit. Plus an Excalibur Food Dehydrator, the 9 tray model.

Food, cooking gear & utensils, weapons and ammunition, camping gear and outerwear, plus storage batteries, inverters and a solar panel or two should enable some modicum of comfortable survival. A 5gal bucket with a 50lb bag of kitty litter makes a decent makeshift toilet, or get a camper's chemical toilet and lots of RV chemical packets.

Dishpans save water, drying racks and or lots of dishtowels.

Got sewing gear? First Aid and various over the counter medicines and pain relievers?

Good binoculars and spotting telescope are also worthy of inclusion.

Whatever you can add to your kit to enable more self-sufficiency and ability to repair/restore gear & technology, especially references; get em now!

Hi Stu,

You sent me a PM which I could read but was unable to reply to, asking about cutting/pasting from my posts.

In the thread immediately above my prior post, you cut & pasted these remarks of mine without attribution:
"I remember reading Peter Capstick Hathaway talking about having to burn the privy when a Black Mamba took up residence there. The biggest bummer was the loss of the toilet seat. Pretty ubiquitous, but try sitting on a piece of plywood with your bare ass... A 5gal paint bucket with the appropriate sized trash liner with some kitty litter will make a decent toilet. Supposedly Cabellas sells a toilet seat that fits a bucket. Chemical toilets are pretty decent. With end of RV season you might find chemicals on closeout. Thetford is the best.

Probably brown, green, or camo is the best choice for plastic tarps. The heavy duty ones will wear very long time. 6mil plastic or even 4mil is also super for building or patching with. The very thin plastic floor padding makes a great insulation material if sandwiched between two tarps and sewn so it won't shift around.

The only place to buy junk tents is at the resale shop. If you pay $5-$10 for them, you get your money's worth. I did get a Eureka Timberline in like new condition for $25 once. They are Very Nice. Wenzel is also a good tent you might find at Wally's. The NorthFace VE25 is about the best backpacking/mountaineering tent ever designed for 4 season use. You might also find a USGI 4pc sleep system. The GoreTex bivy, compression bag plus light & med wt synthetic sl bags that nest make for a very workable 4 season solution. Not like you can lay in a puddle and not get wet, but goretex is pretty decent stuff. About $100 used, $165 new for one of these. You might find the camo bivy sacs on Ebay for $25-$50.

Hardware is great to have.
A good selection of decking screws in all lengths will enable you to fasten stuff securely and then retrieve your screws later on. Heavy duty galvanized lag screws will hold really heavy stuff in place. They go on quick with a ratcheting socket wrench and could enable fast shelter building in the woods. With an axe, saws and a couple of wedges you could be making timbers or even a log home. Chainsaw is even better. A 16-20" bar with 3/8" pitch chain is a real workhorse that will really earn its keep. Stihl or Husqvarna are the best makes. Poulan is supposedly Husky's cheaper brand.

You might consider fastener systems also. A hammer-tacker stapler is a super tool for rigging plastic sheeting. Adhesives in various formulas come in caulking gun tubes and make application very clean and easy. The big caulking guns really enable big jobs to go fast. You might think about keeping some cheap-0 Wally World sillicone sealant. Then there is gasket maker material.

Where does it end? Well, you have to realize if you can't fix stuff you have to adapt it. A tube of sillicone will go a long way if you don't have RTV.

Great idea on the Refugee Kits, Enigma!"


If you want to use my remarks, please cut/paste the entire thread with header info, as I did in the post above. I don't mind your posting my remarks on this forum, as you said "to help others". Posting my remarks on GLP is fine, but I don't give or allow anyone to use, revise, edit anything I've written for profit or financial gain. Hope that is fair. If not, oh well...

regards,

Lester

Sorry for not doing it on those.

Lester User ID: 474299 7/27/2008 3:54 PM

That MYTHICAL 100 Things To First Disappear list....
Quote

I have seen this promulgated and promoted for years. Much of the "stuff" on it is stupid conjecture. Actually, there are many items more critical that will disappear first, but anyone who is seriously considering survival preparations, and relies on this list, is setting themselves up for failure.

Here is the list from Joyce Riley's powerhour site, at least that is the attributed link.

I will offer my thoughts on more critical items as this thread develops.

100 Items to Disappear First

1. Generators (Good ones cost dearly. Gas storage, risky. Noisy...target of thieves; maintenance etc.)
2. Water Filters/Purifiers
3. Portable Toilets
4. Seasoned Firewood. Wood takes about 6 - 12 months to become dried, for home uses.
5. Lamp Oil, Wicks, Lamps (First Choice: Buy CLEAR oil. If scarce, stockpile ANY!)
6. Coleman Fuel. Impossible to stockpile too much.
7. Guns, Ammunition, Pepper Spray, Knives, Clubs, Bats & Slingshots.
8. Hand-can openers, & hand egg beaters, whisks.
9. Honey/Syrups/white, brown sugar
10. Rice - Beans - Wheat
11. Vegetable Oil (for cooking) Without it food burns/must be boiled etc.,)
12. Charcoal, Lighter Fluid (Will become scarce suddenly)
13. Water Containers (Urgent Item to obtain.) Any size. Small: HARD CLEAR PLASTIC ONLY - note - food grade if for drinking.
16. Propane Cylinders (Urgent: Definite shortages will occur.
17. Survival Guide Book.
18. Mantles: Aladdin, Coleman, etc. (Without this item, longer-term lighting is difficult.)
19. Baby Supplies: Diapers/formula. ointments/aspirin, etc.
20. Washboards, Mop Bucket w/wringer (for Laundry)
21. Cookstoves (Propane, Coleman & Kerosene)
22. Vitamins
23. Propane Cylinder Handle-Holder (Urgent: Small canister use is dangerous without this item)
24. Feminine Hygiene/Haircare/Skin products.
25. Thermal underwear (Tops & Bottoms)
26. Bow saws, axes and hatchets, Wedges (also, honing oil)
27. Aluminum Foil Reg. & Heavy Duty (Great Cooking and Barter Item)
28. Gasoline Containers (Plastic & Metal)
29. Garbage Bags (Impossible To Have Too Many).
30. Toilet Paper, Kleenex, Paper Towels
31. Milk - Powdered & Condensed (Shake Liquid every 3 to 4 months)
32. Garden Seeds (Non-Hybrid) (A MUST)
33. Clothes pins/line/hangers (A MUST)
34. Coleman's Pump Repair Kit
35. Tuna Fish (in oil)
36. Fire Extinguishers (or..large box of Baking Soda in every room)
37. First aid kits
38. Batteries (all sizes...buy furthest-out for Expiration Dates)
39. Garlic, spices & vinegar, baking supplies
40. Big Dogs (and plenty of dog food)
41. Flour, yeast & salt
42. Matches. {"Strike Anywhere" preferred.) Boxed, wooden matches will go first
43. Writing paper/pads/pencils, solar calculators
44. Insulated ice chests (good for keeping items from freezing in Wintertime.)
45. Workboots, belts, Levis & durable shirts
46. Flashlights/LIGHTSTICKS & torches, "No. 76 Dietz" Lanterns
47. Journals, Diaries & Scrapbooks (jot down ideas, feelings, experience; Historic Times)
48. Garbage cans Plastic (great for storage, water, transporting - if with wheels)
49. Men's Hygiene: Shampoo, Toothbrush/paste, Mouthwash/floss, nail clippers, etc
50. Cast iron cookware (sturdy, efficient)
51. Fishing supplies/tools
52. Mosquito coils/repellent, sprays/creams
53. Duct Tape
54. Tarps/stakes/twine/nails/rope/spikes
55. Candles
56. Laundry Detergent (liquid)
57. Backpacks, Duffel Bags
58. Garden tools & supplies
59. Scissors, fabrics & sewing supplies
60. Canned Fruits, Veggies, Soups, stews, etc.
61. Bleach (plain, NOT scented: 4 to 6% sodium hypochlorite)
62. Canning supplies, (Jars/lids/wax)
63. Knives & Sharpening tools: files, stones, steel
64. Bicycles...Tires/tubes/pumps/chains, etc
65. Sleeping Bags & blankets/pillows/mats
66. Carbon Monoxide Alarm (battery powered)
67. Board Games, Cards, Dice
68. d-con Rat poison, MOUSE PRUFE II, Roach Killer
69. Mousetraps, Ant traps & cockroach magnets
70. Paper plates/cups/utensils (stock up, folks)
71. Baby wipes, oils, waterless & Antibacterial soap (saves a lot of water)
72. Rain gear, rubberized boots, etc.
73. Shaving supplies (razors & creams, talc, after shave)
74. Hand pumps & siphons (for water and for fuels)
75. Soysauce, vinegar, bullions/gravy/soupbase
76. Reading glasses
77. Chocolate/Cocoa/Tang/Punch (water enhancers)
78. "Survival-in-a-Can"
79. Woolen clothing, scarves/ear-muffs/mittens
80. Boy Scout Handbook, / also Leaders Catalog
81. Roll-on Window Insulation Kit (MANCO)
82. Graham crackers, saltines, pretzels, Trail mix/Jerky
83. Popcorn, Peanut Butter, Nuts
84. Socks, Underwear, T-shirts, etc. (extras)
85. Lumber (all types)
86. Wagons & carts (for transport to and from)
87. Cots & Inflatable mattress's
88. Gloves: Work/warming/gardening, etc.
89. Lantern Hangers
90. Screen Patches, glue, nails, screws,, nuts & bolts
91. Teas
92. Coffee
93. Cigarettes
94. Wine/Liquors (for bribes, medicinal, etc,)
95. Paraffin wax
96. Glue, nails, nuts, bolts, screws, etc.
97. Chewing gum/candies
98. Atomizers (for cooling/bathing)
99. Hats & cotton neckerchiefs
100. Goats/chickens
===============================================

What kind of idiot compiled this list?

Is this list what the know-nothings will buy/stampede for and thereby remove from circulation? Does it matter what the idiots buy?

Generators: probably not the first priority of most. Unless you have 5-10gals of fuel per 24hour run period or have a propane-converted unit with fairly large tank; what good does a genset do for you?

Batteries, all sizes and types. Really? Gonna be chucking them away after they've been expended or do you NEED nicad/nimh and a recharger with some spares? What about using Heavy Duty Deep Cycle batteries and inverters? How about inexpensive Solar Panels and electric repair/diagnostic eqpt????

Coleman fuel??? AT $7-$10/gal, "impossible to stockpile too much"??? How many mantle lanterns and campstoves run on Unleaded Gasoline anyway?

Charcoal Lighter Fluid? Gonna pay $4/qt when you can mix gasoline and kerosene or diesel for about $1/qt???


The original list is just worthless. If you intend to take the CONSUMER APPROACH to Survival, you are very ill-equipped.

I agree that some of the items are not strictly speaking essential survival items by a long shot.
I am not trying to take credit for anything here but as most people will actually be "bugging in" many of these items would be welcome items.


I welcome all of your suggestions. I will not quote you further. Please throw in any advice or better yet a more realistic comprehensive SHTF survival list. From you, I am sure it would be stellar.


If it goes MAD MAX all bets are off anyway.

Last Edited by Frigg Stuyvesant on 03/21/2009 05:05 PM

If any of you have the wherewithal I STRONGLY suggest you print this entire thread to hard copy paper.


There are so many threads that supplement this thread in the recession proof category.Look this shit up and PRINT it!

For the 15th!

Should they even be there? Please comment on this video clip. I don’t think Robert Cooper or Brad Wright would ever let these two ever have any serious part on Stargate Universe. Well maybe the brunette…

[link to www.koldcast.tv]

Useful Info, Bringin' It Back to the Fore Bump

.

Dr.Gatling?