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A Surfer Riding the Wave

 
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 363214
United States
07/28/2008 10:27 AM
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A Surfer Riding the Wave
It is true; only a surfer knows the feeling. It is one of supreme comfort, a moment of living in the now, riding the moving hills or the colossal mountainside faces of waves. Waves; truly alive like nothing else on the earth.

Powerful and beautiful, completely silent until the release of energy slams down on the beach shallows. The surfer accelerates as the breaking wave pulls water from the shoreline, racing over the shallows back out to sea, in an effort to sustain its compacting energy. The force embodied in the elemental begins folding over on itself as it rolls over the increasingly shallow ocean bottom. The sandy bottom creating a drag on the lower frequency oscillation of the wave while the higher oscillation is free to keep its momentum. The liquid – bound to the laws of physics – begins losing its ability to contain the energy. The wave frequency is being ripped apart.

Movement. Compression. Energy releasing through the water as it violently impacts back onto itself. This releasing of energy generates numerous, powerful underwater vortexes as the wave thunders down upon itself in an immediate need to dissipate the chaotic release of energy. Underwater turbulence. Physical. Powerful. Violent.

The surfer rides the structured wave form, its energy releasing as a constant white-water explosion chasing the surfer from behind. The process of being enveloped inside a living liquid vortex of nature is a lesson in Zen, a lesson in Tao. A timeless passage of right. All structures and concepts of time are impossibly compressed. All past memories, all of the plans or worries of the future are but transitory illusions from living in our societies. All unimportant now. The wave is being surfed and the surfer’s awareness is fixed on a dynamic wall of water.

The moment of getting ‘barreled’ – if you let me slip into my native tongue – is a moment of existing as one with the universe. It is a region in the Now, immobile yet accelerating. A region of polar duality. The center of the vortex. The surfer has arrived, both internally and externally, to the state of rigpa. It is a state of being that does not reside in a particular place for it is always moving, forever in motion. Changing. And yet there is always a center point. Dualism has not been separated; it has been built upon and transcended by the correct placement of consciousness obtained through the awareness and actions of a conscious mind and body. The surfer need not move. The surfer is in a state of supreme grace perfectly balanced inside the paradoxical universal serenity of structured wave stability and its violent structural collapse. A universe formed and living through the antithema of polarity. There is no thought. There is no sound. There is vast movement though the surfer’s mind and body are still. Their work is done. There is only the Now, the successful merging of body, mind and wave energy. The now expressed as being one with nature, of being one entity immersed in a natural vortex, the end stage of the wave, a tunnel of air wrapped with energy imbued liquid. Accelerating to a close… Right before our eyes.
Enlilson

User ID: 457613
United States
07/28/2008 10:40 AM
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Re: A Surfer Riding the Wave
So true and I will be padding out in 4 days........sitting up, jamming my board down thrusting me forward as my arm grabbing water merge me the board and the wave into oneness, does not matter the size it is wave and I must ride it
It doesn't matter who I m it's who U R so ChoOse
apprentice

User ID: 1403418
United States
02/20/2012 07:53 AM

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Re: A Surfer Riding the Wave
bump
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 3692794
Japan
02/20/2012 07:57 AM
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Re: A Surfer Riding the Wave
Thread: Vibration Creates Form ^^^^^ Different Frequency = Different Form
A standing wave is made by sending a wave group down the tank against a fixed wall. The reflected wave will superimpose upon the incident waves doubling the amplitude. As the wave maker imparts more energy in to the system, the amplitude increases. The waves are sustained by gravity and hydrostatic force and dissipated by fluid viscosity (the frictional forces against the wall are negligible). The video has been edited as the clopotis and seiche that occur last over a half hour and are eventually killed with the wave maker acting as an absorber, as it tries to produce waves offset by one half period of the waves hitting it.



[link to video.godlikeproductions.com]

[link to video.godlikeproductions.com]
 Quoting: Sickscent

 Quoting: SickScent
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 11142797
China
02/20/2012 08:05 AM
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Re: A Surfer Riding the Wave
This sounds like it was written by a shark biscuit or cripple. True, only a surfer knows the feeling, but def getting shark biscuit vibes/
apprentice

User ID: 1403418
United States
02/20/2012 08:14 AM

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Re: A Surfer Riding the Wave
Futures studies (also called futurology) is the study of postulating possible, probable, and preferable futures and the worldviews and myths that underlie them. There is a debate as to whether this discipline is an art or science. In general, it can be considered as a branch under the more general scope of the field of history. Futures studies (colloquially called "futures" by many of the field's practitioners) seeks to understand what is likely to continue, what is likely to change, and what is novel. Part of the discipline thus seeks a systematic and pattern-based understanding of past and present, and to determine the likelihood of future events and trends.[1] Unlike science where a narrower, more specified system is studied, futures studies concerns a much bigger and more complex world system. The methodology and knowledge are much less proven as compared to natural science or even social science like sociology, economics, and political science.

[link to en.wikipedia.org]
QUANTA
User ID: 11022102
Australia
02/20/2012 08:15 AM
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Re: A Surfer Riding the Wave
If I never would have surfed it likely I wound never have been here right now.

[link to www.theage.com.au]
Kinect

User ID: 11109805
United States
02/20/2012 08:42 AM
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Re: A Surfer Riding the Wave
Very well written! 5stars
"The more we do to you, the less you seem to believe we are doing it." - Josef Mengele

"You can't fix stupid" - Ron White

"Whatever you do in life, leave it better than you found it."
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 11148285
United States
02/20/2012 08:51 AM
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Re: A Surfer Riding the Wave
......and therefore godlike do i go followed by myriad bikinied women, admired and worshipped from near and afar, they all wanting what i have. The act is nothing, sliding a wave is just exercise. Its the perceived style of dangerous, tanned, man about world, never taking it serious except to be admired and to get laid is the end goal for this soul surfer. You know, deep stuff man.
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 11148806
United States
02/20/2012 09:06 AM
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Re: A Surfer Riding the Wave
Beautiful image...

Body surfing's the best...hf
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 6640909
United States
02/20/2012 09:10 AM
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Re: A Surfer Riding the Wave
I rip.
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 11148806
United States
02/20/2012 09:48 AM
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Re: A Surfer Riding the Wave
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 11148806
United States
02/20/2012 10:10 AM
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Re: A Surfer Riding the Wave
Better clip eh pappas...

[link to www.youtube.com]

Insert Bussy smilie
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 11148806
United States
02/20/2012 10:20 AM
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Re: A Surfer Riding the Wave
Talk about the magnatude of scalar...synch up...
rockon

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