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Rubbing alcohol: How to Make a Stove & a Heater

 
yass
User ID: 533123
United States
10/23/2008 07:48 AM
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Rubbing alcohol: How to Make a Stove & a Heater
These look promising.

How to make an Alcohol Stove from a Soda Can.
[link to home.att.net]

How to Make a Toilet Paper Wick Heater
[link to www.wikihow.com]
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 532272
United Kingdom
10/23/2008 07:57 AM
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Re: Rubbing alcohol: How to Make a Stove & a Heater
Feck that! You'd be better getting a proper methylated spirit burner (from practically ANY camping outlet). Even safer for a short duration bug-out are the solid fuel 'Meta' type stoves.
yass (OP)
User ID: 533123
United States
10/23/2008 08:15 AM
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Re: Rubbing alcohol: How to Make a Stove & a Heater
How to Make a Toilet Paper Wick Heater

How to make a very cheap and effective heater from simple supplies (1 full roll of toilet paper, 1 pint of rubbing alcohol, and a empty small tin coffee can w/ lid).

Steps

1. Remove the cardboard center from the roll of toilet paper.
2. Press the toilet paper roll together and slide into empty coffee can so that the top of the roll is below the top of the rim of the can.
3. Pour 1 pint of rubbing alcohol into coffee can so that the toilet paper acts as a wick and soaks up the rubbing alcohol.
4. Light and enjoy the heat.


Tips

* Isopropyl rubbing alcohol does not produce carbon monoxide, but it is always a good idea to have fresh air circulating at all times.
* After several hours the isopropyl alcohol will burn off and more will need to be added. Make sure to extinguish the flame completely and allow to cool before adding additional rubbing alcohol to the wick.
* Use the lid that came with the can to seal the container and prevent the alcohol from evaporating when not in use.


Warnings

* Always be careful with open flames.
* Keep small children away from heater when burning as serious burns can occur.
* Extinguish the flame completely before adding more alcohol.
* Alcohol flames can be invisible.


Things You'll Need

* 1 full roll of toilet paper
* 1 pint of rubbing alcohol
* 1 Empty small tin coffee can w/ lid

[link to www.wikihow.com]



Fuzzy's Lil' Stove A.K.A. (Also Known As) How to make an Alcohol Stove from a Soda Can.

The stove will weigh less than 10 grams, ~1/3 of an ounce.
Using about 1 ounce of 70% Isopropyl (Rubbing) Alcohol it will boil a pint (500 ml) of water in ~ 6 minutes. (At sea level.)

Rules:

This project must be done under parental supervision!

This project is for intelligent and careful ADULTS, if you don't fit into ALL of the previous categories DO NOT attempt this project -- You agree to assume all legal, moral, financial and medical responsibility should you attempt this project. You also agree that the total liability of this product is the amount paid; i.e. free advice is worth what you pay, and hopefully more.

Wear Work Gloves AND Safety Glasses while making this stove, you will be working with very sharp edges

Use the stove outdoors with a 5 gallon bucket of water or garden hose and a fire extinguisher to put out any unexpected fires.

Keep away from children! Sharp edges, fire and poison are not for little ones.

Use only outdoors, in a safe large fire pit area, never in a drought / fire hazard situation.

This stove will run on 70% Isopropyl Alcohol, this is the only fuel I have tested it on.
DO NOT use of anything else!
If you get aluminum hot enough it will actually burn, so please don't use any other fuels.

The stove is very hot after use, handle with care.
Never move the stove while it is ignited.

Okay, now that my lawyer is happy, let's get down to business.

This project will take about 20 minutes to do, mostly to gather the tools.

I hope you only need to use this stove for recreational purposes.
Please enjoy this project wisely.

This project started because I was looking for some more of these stoves. The Simmons Safe Sport stove. A really simple stove to use, but the place I had bought it from no longer carries it and has no clue if they will ever get more. Searches on the net yielded only Shioshio's webpage. The stove in use photo was taken just as the stove got hot, and the flames were not up to full height.

The Simmons Safe Sport Stove is slightly smaller in diameter than a soda can. The stand is a nicely made steel wire frame. The stove is a cup with an insert that goes almost to the bottom. With jet holes near the top of the cup. The metal insert gets heated up and boils the alcohol, when the fumes rise to the top and out the jets and get ignited. When all of the jets flame up it is time to put the pot on. You heat up the fuel by pouring in about an ounce or two and ignite it and let the flame rise up though the center, this heats the cup up and gets the fuel to boil. You fill it above the bottom of the insert, just like on my stove.

| | <-- Aluminum insert
/| |
|| || <--Jets
|| ||
|| ||
|_____|

Supplies & Tools:

Work Gloves
Safety Glasses
A 12 oz soda can
A clean used tuna can - 6 ounce can
News paper for a quick project cleanup
Can opener
Needle nose pliers
Sharp heavy duty scissors -- not your wife's sewing scissors.
A nail or screw or ice pick - to poke some holes
Sand paper or a metal file
Magic Marker (permanent marker)
Ruler
1 pint 70% Isopropyl (Rubbing) Alcohol

Instructions - assembly:

Remember: if you mess up you will have to drink another soda! :))

1. Spread out the newspaper on the work surface, to catch the metal cuttings. Do as I say, not as I do! :)
2. Put on and Wear Work Gloves
3. Put on and Safety Glasses
4. Take the scissors or nail or ice pick and poke 4 SMALL holes in the upper lip as shown. Spaced every 90 degrees. This allows the fuel to flow evenly while burning.
5. Use the can opener and remove the inside top where the mouth is - keeping the thick rim, this is not easy. Some lifting of the can opener and pushing will be needed while turning to get the gear teeth to move along. Go around the rim a few times (3-5), this will help cut the seam better.
6. Push through the inside top and let it fall in, you may not be able to do this until much later; after the wrinkling of the can. Watch out for the burrs from the poked holes and other sharp edges.
7. Using the needle nose pliers rub & crush any burrs made by the can opener and or the ice pick / nail.
8. Draw a circle around the can about 1" (25 mm) up from the bottom and another circle 2" (50 mm) down from the top.
9. Cut the can open between the middle of these two lines be very careful the edges will be very sharp! It is okay if it is messy, you will clean up these in the next two steps.
10. Cut the BOTTOM portion on the line, use this one for your practice. Cut a nice clean edge, no nicks or slivers to injure yourself on - this does not need to be level, just very smooth.
11. Take the TOP portion and cut on the line, Again make sure you have no nicks or slivers -- the straighter the better, this is affects the leveling of the cooking pot.
12. Using the file or sand paper smooth ALL edges and burrs.
13. On the TOP portion, using the needle nose pliers gently wrinkle the "wrinkle to here" line you want to twist the pliers to make a ruffle in the edge of the can, you want the ruffles / wrinkles, but not to big or wide. Make 6 to 10 wrinkles.

Or
Use a rounded piece of lumber and gently dent in some grooves - be careful not to tear the metal.

These wrinkles will do several things:

1. Make the can stronger to support the pot.
2. Allow the top half to slide into the bottom half.
3. Allow the vapors to escape up the side and act as flame jets.
14. Carefully insert the TOP portion into the BOTTOM portion.
15. If working with different sized cans, use the mouth opening as a measurement guide. The top height should be the 1 to 1.25 the diameter of the mouth opening. The bottom height should be 1/4 the diameter of the mouth opening.


You're done with the building portion.

Theory of operation: (Oh, no not some boring prattling)
Well, too bad. When you make something you should have a clue how it works. This won't hurt too much.

The fuel (70% Isopropyl [Rubbing] Alcohol) is poured into the center and ignited. The flame inside the chamber causes the top half to heat up, when the outside edge is hot enough the fuel starts to vaporize and mists out the sides (because of the wrinkles / ruffles). This vapor is then ignited by the flame from the center flame -- all of this happens in about 30 seconds or less.

See, was that bad?

Instructions - use:

1. This project must be done under parental supervision!
2. DO ONLY OUTDOORS (outside) and have a fire extinguisher ready! And 5 gallon bucket of water or garden hose.
3. Place the stove on solid level ground.
4. Use only in an approved fire pit.
5. Never use in during fire hazard conditions.
6. This stove is not designed to be left unattended!
7. I can't think of any other stupid things not to do, so don't do it if I'd think it's stupid.
8. The fuel (70% Isopropyl [Rubbing] Alcohol) is poured into the center fill to just above the top can's bottom lip and well below the lower can's upper edge (on the outside).
9. Be sure no fuel is on your hands before you ignite the stove.
10. Ignite using a long match or long tipped lighter for barbecues.
11. Wait about 30 seconds, for the outside edge to start flaming. Typically about 10-15 seconds
12. The stove needs to be conditioned - to burn off the plastic and paints used on decorating the can. Use one ounce of fuel on letting the stove burn without a pot on top.
13. When re-filling the stove be sure the fire is completely out and the stove is cool -- thus avoiding an unexpected ignition of the stove.
14. Place pot carefully centered on the stove.
15. DO NOT STIR your pot on this stove, you will need to make a support for your pot. That is an exercise left for the student :)) -- I've always wanted to say that. Hint: take a big tin / metal can and cut out the top and bottom and cut notches into it. See photo below for a nice example - triangle notches will do.
16. Extinguishing the flame, you can not blow out the flame unless the pot is on top then a strong breath will do it. Or use a tuna can dropped upside down on to the stove.
17. Remember the stove and pot are HOT after use.


Fuel Storage:

* Should be done carefully.
* My only annoyance with this design is that the fuel is not safely transported in the stove, you must use a storage bottle. Since we are talking about an ounce or less of alcohol, this is not a big issue. I'd pour it into a smaller fuel bottle of contaminated fuel to be used first on the next fire - or let it burn off.
* Do not store ANY FUEL in beverage (water) containers, you could get them confused and have a big problem.
* The reason why I prefer Isopropyl [Rubbing] Alcohol is that if you should get any on your hands it is not carcinogenic [toxic], just let it evaporate. And help the evaporation by blowing on your hands.
* Should the fuel leak out; it will not destroy / contaminate everything in the backpack, just let it evaporate and most items will be unaffected.
* Most other fuels will ruin (destroy) nylon and stink up those items that are not destroyed, and a big mess to cleanup.

The Foster's Mishap:

Made the stove using the above technique, from a can I found on the side of the road - Rotten Litter Bugs! The metal had an odd (strange) feel to it, not like the other cans and the bottom had 'rusted' / tarnished. The thick rim had been gnawed (chewed - removed) off while using the can opener. Still we marched on, to make the stove.

Poured some fuel in and it would not stay light so, cheated [no, I'm not gonna tell you how - it worked on the other cans] and the flame started. It roared up nice and big and then the top lip caved in, and then the flame jumped even bigger. I started to get very worried! And grabbed the big bucket of water, but waited and the can started to cave in upon itself - the fuel was mostly used up.

The metal did not 'feel', correct, like the other cans.

I will be on the look out for another brand of beverage using the jumbo [big] size cans.

Just found that Arizona Iced Tea makes a 700ml version, it's not a full liter like the Foster's but it was bigger. And I will be testing it soon.


The moral of this example:
This can be a dangerous project, please proceed carefully!

[link to home.att.net]


[link to home.att.net]
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 429245
United States
10/23/2008 08:18 AM
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Re: Rubbing alcohol: How to Make a Stove & a Heater
These look promising.

How to make an Alcohol Stove from a Soda Can.
[link to home.att.net]

How to Make a Toilet Paper Wick Heater
[link to www.wikihow.com]
 Quoting: yass 533123


OP, why don't you copy and paste this to this thread, so we can find it later: Thanks!

Thread: Recession Proof GLP...heating/air conditioning
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 516479
United States
10/23/2008 10:06 AM
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Re: Rubbing alcohol: How to Make a Stove & a Heater
Wow
Its coming down to this, huh?
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 480936
United States
10/23/2008 10:31 AM
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Re: Rubbing alcohol: How to Make a Stove & a Heater
You can buy these on ebay for a couple of bucks. I bought three for ten $. Not really worth it. Go to Sportsman's Guide or Cheaper than Dirt and get a good mil. one-learn how to make a hobo-stove, a rocket stove, and a five brick stove and you'll be ready to survive the eliments a lot better than most-also learn how to use a bow & string fire starter. Easy to do. Yes, it's come to this! Rubbing alcohol doesn't burn that well-use "Heat" in the yellow plastic containers. More expensive but worth it.
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 533234
United States
10/23/2008 11:09 AM
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Re: Rubbing alcohol: How to Make a Stove & a Heater
try 70% or 90% alcohol concentrations
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 520845
United States
10/23/2008 11:12 AM
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Re: Rubbing alcohol: How to Make a Stove & a Heater
Looks like a flash fire waiting to happen,but if you aren't attached to your eyebrows go ahead an fabricate one.
Cindexer
User ID: 747735
United States
08/13/2009 12:17 AM
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Re: Rubbing alcohol: How to Make a Stove & a Heater
I have heard of using a pint paint can as a container for the TP tissue and the rubbing alcohol. Place the can lid over the flame when it is to be extinguished. It works great.

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