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My Simple method for plugging the leak. (Pay no attention to this thread)

 
TOTAL1TY
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User ID: 928882
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06/22/2010 04:06 PM
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My Simple method for plugging the leak. (Pay no attention to this thread)
It's been obvious to me for months now that with a high pressure system spewing tremendous amounts of oil and methane gas out, there is only one real way to plug this leak (Other than the drilling of relief wells to stabilize the pressure within the system).

It's Enema Time, I call this method the Heart Attack.

Snake a small tube down the shaft a few miles and start releasing vast amounts of the right type of Epoxy and clog that sucker up slowly from the inside out. Its like intentionally giving someone a heart attack by coating their arteries with plaque.

[link to en.wikipedia.org]

Use the pressure of the oil/gas to coat the inside of the shaft and any cracks that may have formed. It will take time for the layers of epoxy to build up within the shaft.

Slowly but surely the opening through which the oil is coming out will get smaller and smaller. Huge amounts of the correct type of Epoxy material would be needed of course.

That should do the trick. I don't want to hear about any 10 year old's who think you can just cap a well under that much stress/pressure and with that much gas being released. We need real solutions here people. To get a real solution, first you need to understand the real problem, and that is that you cannot cap this well with the pressure that it is under. Any attempts to do so will ultimately fail as the pressure continues to build up.


But then again what do I know, I've been sitting on this idea for months now because it still sounds CRAZY to me. But I can't think of any other way to combat the pressure.


Please feel free to point out the errors in this theory.
TOTAL1TY  (OP)

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06/22/2010 04:21 PM
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Re: My Simple method for plugging the leak. (Pay no attention to this thread)
Here is some info from the Wikipedia link about Epoxies. I've bolded the good stuff.

"Epoxy is a copolymer; that is, it is formed from two different chemicals. These are referred to as the "resin" and the "hardener". The resin consists of monomers or short chain polymers with an epoxide group at either end. Most common epoxy resins are produced from a reaction between epichlorohydrin and bisphenol-A, though the latter may be replaced by similar chemicals. The hardener consists of polyamine monomers, for example Triethylenetetramine (TETA). When these compounds are mixed together, the amine groups react with the epoxide groups to form a covalent bond. Each NH group can react with an epoxide group, so that the resulting polymer is heavily crosslinked, and is thus rigid and strong.[1][2]

The process of polymerization is called "curing", and can be controlled through temperature and choice of resin and hardener compounds; the process can take minutes to hours. Some formulations benefit from heating during the cure period, whereas others simply require time, and ambient temperatures.

The applications for epoxy-based materials are extensive and include coatings, adhesives and composite materials such as those using carbon fiber and fiberglass reinforcements (although polyester, vinyl ester, and other thermosetting resins are also used for glass-reinforced plastic). The chemistry of epoxies and the range of commercially available variations allows cure polymers to be produced with a very broad range of properties. In general, epoxies are known for their excellent adhesion, chemical and heat resistance, good-to-excellent mechanical properties and very good electrical insulating properties. Many properties of epoxies can be modified (for example silver-filled epoxies with good electrical conductivity are available, although epoxies are typically electrically insulating). Variations offering high thermal insulation, or thermal conductivity combined with high electrical resistance for electronics applications, are available.[3]

Epoxy adhesives are a major part of the class of adhesives called "structural adhesives" or "engineering adhesives" (which also includes polyurethane, acrylic, cyanoacrylate, and other chemistries.) These high-performance adhesives are used in the construction of aircraft, automobiles, bicycles, boats, golf clubs, skis, snow boards, and other applications where high strength bonds are required. Epoxy adhesives can be developed to suit almost any application. They are exceptional adhesives for wood, metal, glass, stone, and some plastics. They can be made flexible or rigid, transparent or opaque/colored, fast setting or extremely slow setting. Epoxy adhesives are almost unmatched in heat and chemical resistance among common adhesives. In general, epoxy adhesives cured with heat will be more heat- and chemical-resistant than those cured at room temperature. The strength of epoxy adhesives is degraded at temperatures above 350 °F (177 °C).[6]"
TOTAL1TY  (OP)

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06/22/2010 04:37 PM
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Re: My Simple method for plugging the leak. (Pay no attention to this thread)
Finding the right Epoxy will be important. There are many to choose from, I do not know which would be best but a quick search shows what the strengths of an Epoxy are.


[link to www2.electronicproducts.com]

"The clear low-viscosity (750-cps) IMSEAL-800 epoxy has a Rockwell hardness of 97, a tensile strength of 9,000 psi, a compressive strength of 35,000 psi, and a compressive yield of 16,500 psi. Withstanding temperatures from 65 to 350F. the epoxy is curable at room temperature, and curing can be accelerated by heat. "



This one has a comprehensive strength of 35,000 psi, can withstand temperatures to 350 before it loses some of its strength, and curing is actually accelerated by heat. Some epoxy similar to this would probably do the trick.
TOTAL1TY  (OP)

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06/22/2010 09:13 PM
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Re: My Simple method for plugging the leak. (Pay no attention to this thread)
I was hoping for at least some feedback, someone who points out something obviously wrong with this solution. No takers?
Anonymous Coward
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06/22/2010 09:15 PM
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Re: My Simple method for plugging the leak. (Pay no attention to this thread)
Here's what they should do. Make a pipe big enough to sit over the entire BOP that keeps the oil focused. Then run that pipe up and split it off into maybe 4 or 5 different smaller pipes and connect those smaller pipes to ships so they can pump it. They will be pumping straight oil, no seawater due to the seal that would be created around the BOP.

I don't know why they haven't attempted this yet.

They are looking for complicated solutions when a simple one is right here.
Anonymous Coward
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06/22/2010 09:15 PM
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Re: My Simple method for plugging the leak. (Pay no attention to this thread)
the pressure is to great it wouldn't have time to stick to a wall and dry. The pressure would disperse the molecules too quickly.

There are brilliant minds working on the situation and I can assure you similar methods have been thought of
Anonymous Coward
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06/22/2010 09:21 PM
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Re: My Simple method for plugging the leak. (Pay no attention to this thread)
That's basically what they're going to do after they finish the relief well.

The problem is, a friend of mine knows an engineer on another Gulf drill rig, and he says (well, the Cliff notes version anyway) that they've managed to create so many cracks in the seabed already that the oil's spewing out of a crack 13 miles away from the original hole.

It's not ONE hole they have to seal, it's dozens of them.

Sealing one hole will just create pressure somewhere else, and the oil will just come out someplace else. Or out of several someplace's else.

And I didn't really understand the explosive gas and crystal stuff he was telling me about enough to repeat it here.
Anonymous Coward
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06/22/2010 09:29 PM
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Re: My Simple method for plugging the leak. (Pay no attention to this thread)
does the shit cure in the absense of oxygen???
Anonymous Coward
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06/22/2010 09:40 PM
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Re: My Simple method for plugging the leak. (Pay no attention to this thread)

does the shit cure in the absense of oxygen???
As far as i know it does.
namba76
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06/22/2010 09:42 PM
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Re: My Simple method for plugging the leak. (Pay no attention to this thread)
but where would get that much epoxy?
namba76
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06/22/2010 09:47 PM
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Re: My Simple method for plugging the leak. (Pay no attention to this thread)
And if someone could come up with the proper epoxy in large amounts it may fill all the holes in the sea floor.
Anonymous Coward
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06/22/2010 10:01 PM
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Re: My Simple method for plugging the leak. (Pay no attention to this thread)
My vote is for some VERY LARGE thick-membrane packets to be lowered and filled... sort of like a semi-rigid balloon. You'd need some sort of an airlock to allow the gas-phase matter to escape. Move and store the packets by way of ROVs on the sea floor until such time as they could be lifted. Separate chambers of the packets could be later inflated to assist in lifting them to the surface... or have fittings that attach to pipe, and pump the contents to the surface.

Yes, I have no idea who would manufacture the packets, and given JIT manufacturing, it would take an act of God to get them produced and delivered in a timely manner. I have no idea if ROVs are capable of moving large objects. Also, escaping methane would continue to pollute the ocean, and given the volume of oil, any solution of this type would be merely temporary. Just a lame brainstorming session here.





GLP