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Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5

 
Wire
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01/05/2017 02:17 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
What fuel choices you use, manufacturers? What grade?
BrokenTech  (OP)

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01/05/2017 02:25 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
clogged cat homie!

clogged cat can be caused by faulty bank 1 o2 sensor giving false reading causing the computer to think its running lean and dumping extra fuel. or it could be caused by either a faulty thermostat or coolant temperature sensor, which would cause the computer to do the same thing. or if its a car that utilizes a secondary air pump for emissions, a faulty solenoid would cause the vehicle to run rich, causing cat to become clogged. clogged cat can easily be checked by using a infrared temp gun to measure the temps at the front and rear of cat. if the temps are close to the same its not clogged, but if the engine side is significantly higher....bingo!

but rotten egg smell generally points to a clogged cat.
you will also notice a decrease in power, especially under load or going up steep hills. vehicle will seem to "bog" down

Problem-rotten egg smell
rotten egg smell generally points to clogged cat
Clogged cat generally caused by a rich fuel mixture condition
running rich generally caused a failure in any of sensors related to the fuel/emissions

bank 1 & 2 o2 sensors
map or maf sensor
IAT or coolant temp sensor
secondary air system
egr system

a sticking open secondary air solenoid or egr valve can cause a engine to run rich without throwing a DTC by allowing unmetered air into the exhaust system, causing bank 1 to detect a lean fuel mixture and adding fuel to compensate resulting in a unnecessary rich fuel mixture condition.
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


The car is an 01 Grand Prix GTP modded.

Its not clogged, but thats not to say it will not get that way. It has plenty of power, it still turns the wheels over at 40 mph if I put the pedal down just like it did when I originally installed the mods.

It does not always have the smell. I tend to baby it around town and if I get in it a little bit it starts. As was mentioned in an earlier post about running it harder seems to help, if I get on the highway for 40 miles or so it stops for a few weeks. Changing where I get gas also makes it stop for awhile. Running it harder does indeed seem to make it go away, for awhile. When I am out tomorrow I will run the dog shit out of it and see what happens.

According to the computer, everything is still functioning fine, no fault codes. My real time OBDII software(torque pro) shows the temp as 180 degrees as it should be with a 180 degree thermostat. Short of actually doing manual checks with voltmeters and such, I am assuming the computer would alert me if something was running out of spec.

Running rich I suppose could be a possibility here if unmetered air is getting in, I will check into it.
 Quoting: BrokenTech


if bank 1 is detecting a false lean condition due to unmetered air, you'll see a big fluctuation in the reading on bank1o2 in freeze frame diagnostics. and was your pcm tune a mail order or real time tune?
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


I was fortunate in once meeting an engineer that worked at GM. I had the opportunity talk with him and told him what I wanted for some end results. Afterwards he told me he would come up with a setup and get back with me. He called me a few days later and we discussed what he had in mind. He said if I agreed to the charges he would put it together and ship it all to me and I could just install it. I agreed.

Several days later the shipment start arriving.

Once all had been received it included:

New exhaust, cat back
180 t-stat
NGK spark plugs
New poly serpentine belts
New plug wires - Taylor 8mm
K&N air filter with new enclosure (mainly a moisture shield, its open otherwise and gets all the air it wants)
Reduced size supercharger pulley(not so small that requires headers)
New PCM
And a puller for the supercharger pulley.

I think that is it.

The price included a deposit for the PCM and puller which would be refunded if I sent them back. I ended up keeping both.

The way this was put together and the person doing it he probably had the tools from GM to program the PCM the way it should be. I lost his contact information, however.
Anonymous Coward
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01/05/2017 02:27 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
if bank 1 is detecting a false lean condition due to unmetered air, you'll see a big fluctuation in the reading on bank1o2 in freeze frame diagnostics. and was your pcm tune a mail order or real time tune?

*** you can also do a basic check if you have a good dtc reader. if your fuel trim is running greater than 10%, the computer is trying to compensate for something. one thing to remember here is that your car is supercharged. its better to run lean with boost than rich, so be careful running it hard until you get it straightened out. running rich with a boosted car opens up the opportunity for detonation...which is something you want to avoid like the plague.
 Quoting: BrokenTech




Always better to run rich no matter how it's boosted. Rich will give you some margin of safety. Lean will cause detonation / preignition issues. Lean is hot. Two strokes will seize if they go lean under (heavy) load / throttle.

Now, diesels on the other hand....
BrokenTech  (OP)

User ID: 51566510
United States
01/05/2017 02:30 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
if bank 1 is detecting a false lean condition due to unmetered air, you'll see a big fluctuation in the reading on bank1o2 in freeze frame diagnostics. and was your pcm tune a mail order or real time tune?

*** you can also do a basic check if you have a good dtc reader. if your fuel trim is running greater than 10%, the computer is trying to compensate for something. one thing to remember here is that your car is supercharged. its better to run lean with boost than rich, so be careful running it hard until you get it straightened out. running rich with a boosted car opens up the opportunity for detonation...which is something you want to avoid like the plague.
 Quoting: BrokenTech




Always better to run rich no matter how it's boosted. Rich will give you some margin of safety. Lean will cause detonation / preignition issues. Lean is hot. Two strokes will seize if they go lean under (heavy) load / throttle.

Now, diesels on the other hand....
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


Would that be detected with the knock sensor? If so, the knocks are zero.
The Wild 0nes

User ID: 70892770
United States
01/05/2017 02:32 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
clogged cat homie!

clogged cat can be caused by faulty bank 1 o2 sensor giving false reading causing the computer to think its running lean and dumping extra fuel. or it could be caused by either a faulty thermostat or coolant temperature sensor, which would cause the computer to do the same thing. or if its a car that utilizes a secondary air pump for emissions, a faulty solenoid would cause the vehicle to run rich, causing cat to become clogged. clogged cat can easily be checked by using a infrared temp gun to measure the temps at the front and rear of cat. if the temps are close to the same its not clogged, but if the engine side is significantly higher....bingo!

but rotten egg smell generally points to a clogged cat.
you will also notice a decrease in power, especially under load or going up steep hills. vehicle will seem to "bog" down

Problem-rotten egg smell
rotten egg smell generally points to clogged cat
Clogged cat generally caused by a rich fuel mixture condition
running rich generally caused a failure in any of sensors related to the fuel/emissions

bank 1 & 2 o2 sensors
map or maf sensor
IAT or coolant temp sensor
secondary air system
egr system

a sticking open secondary air solenoid or egr valve can cause a engine to run rich without throwing a DTC by allowing unmetered air into the exhaust system, causing bank 1 to detect a lean fuel mixture and adding fuel to compensate resulting in a unnecessary rich fuel mixture condition.
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


The car is an 01 Grand Prix GTP modded.

Its not clogged, but thats not to say it will not get that way. It has plenty of power, it still turns the wheels over at 40 mph if I put the pedal down just like it did when I originally installed the mods.

It does not always have the smell. I tend to baby it around town and if I get in it a little bit it starts. As was mentioned in an earlier post about running it harder seems to help, if I get on the highway for 40 miles or so it stops for a few weeks. Changing where I get gas also makes it stop for awhile. Running it harder does indeed seem to make it go away, for awhile. When I am out tomorrow I will run the dog shit out of it and see what happens.

According to the computer, everything is still functioning fine, no fault codes. My real time OBDII software(torque pro) shows the temp as 180 degrees as it should be with a 180 degree thermostat. Short of actually doing manual checks with voltmeters and such, I am assuming the computer would alert me if something was running out of spec.

Running rich I suppose could be a possibility here if unmetered air is getting in, I will check into it.
 Quoting: BrokenTech


if bank 1 is detecting a false lean condition due to unmetered air, you'll see a big fluctuation in the reading on bank1o2 in freeze frame diagnostics. and was your pcm tune a mail order or real time tune?
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


I was fortunate in once meeting an engineer that worked at GM. I had the opportunity talk with him and told him what I wanted for some end results. Afterwards he told me he would come up with a setup and get back with me. He called me a few days later and we discussed what he had in mind. He said if I agreed to the charges he would put it together and ship it all to me and I could just install it. I agreed.

Several days later the shipment start arriving.

Once all had been received it included:

New exhaust, cat back
180 t-stat
NGK spark plugs
New poly serpentine belts
New plug wires - Taylor 8mm
K&N air filter with new enclosure (mainly a moisture shield, its open otherwise and gets all the air it wants)
Reduced size supercharger pulley(not so small that requires headers)
New PCM
And a puller for the supercharger pulley.

I think that is it.

The price included a deposit for the PCM and puller which would be refunded if I sent them back. I ended up keeping both.

The way this was put together and the person doing it he probably had the tools from GM to program the PCM the way it should be. I lost his contact information, however.
 Quoting: BrokenTech


well first off, you might want to invest in a tune. the pcm was just a "base tune". designed to get you running until you could take it to a shop to do real time tuning. base maps are just that, base. not a correct reflection of "your" cars true operating characteristics. no two cars operate the same. two motors built side by side with the same identical parts will tune completely different.

start there.
The first step is to establish that something is possible; then probability will occur.


It's easy to stand in the crowd but it takes courage to stand alone

Do i look really like a guy with a plan? you know what i am? I'm a dog chasing cars. I wouldn't know what to do with one if i ever caught it. You know, I.. I just do things. The mobs have plans. The cops have plans. They're Schemers. Schemer's trying to control their little worlds.

I'm Not a Schemer.
Anonymous Coward
User ID: 70959328
United States
01/05/2017 02:34 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
Consider going back to a stock thermostat. Here's why:

The engine coolant sensor will signal the current temp to the PCM. If the PCM thinks the engine is cold or still warming to operating temp it will run with a rich mixture, usually by increasing the injector pulse width.

Running rich is one symptom of the rotting egg problem.
BrokenTech  (OP)

User ID: 51566510
United States
01/05/2017 02:35 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
...


The car is an 01 Grand Prix GTP modded.

Its not clogged, but thats not to say it will not get that way. It has plenty of power, it still turns the wheels over at 40 mph if I put the pedal down just like it did when I originally installed the mods.

It does not always have the smell. I tend to baby it around town and if I get in it a little bit it starts. As was mentioned in an earlier post about running it harder seems to help, if I get on the highway for 40 miles or so it stops for a few weeks. Changing where I get gas also makes it stop for awhile. Running it harder does indeed seem to make it go away, for awhile. When I am out tomorrow I will run the dog shit out of it and see what happens.

According to the computer, everything is still functioning fine, no fault codes. My real time OBDII software(torque pro) shows the temp as 180 degrees as it should be with a 180 degree thermostat. Short of actually doing manual checks with voltmeters and such, I am assuming the computer would alert me if something was running out of spec.

Running rich I suppose could be a possibility here if unmetered air is getting in, I will check into it.
 Quoting: BrokenTech


if bank 1 is detecting a false lean condition due to unmetered air, you'll see a big fluctuation in the reading on bank1o2 in freeze frame diagnostics. and was your pcm tune a mail order or real time tune?
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


I was fortunate in once meeting an engineer that worked at GM. I had the opportunity talk with him and told him what I wanted for some end results. Afterwards he told me he would come up with a setup and get back with me. He called me a few days later and we discussed what he had in mind. He said if I agreed to the charges he would put it together and ship it all to me and I could just install it. I agreed.

Several days later the shipment start arriving.

Once all had been received it included:

New exhaust, cat back
180 t-stat
NGK spark plugs
New poly serpentine belts
New plug wires - Taylor 8mm
K&N air filter with new enclosure (mainly a moisture shield, its open otherwise and gets all the air it wants)
Reduced size supercharger pulley(not so small that requires headers)
New PCM
And a puller for the supercharger pulley.

I think that is it.

The price included a deposit for the PCM and puller which would be refunded if I sent them back. I ended up keeping both.

The way this was put together and the person doing it he probably had the tools from GM to program the PCM the way it should be. I lost his contact information, however.
 Quoting: BrokenTech


well first off, you might want to invest in a tune. the pcm was just a "base tune". designed to get you running until you could take it to a shop to do real time tuning. base maps are just that, base. not a correct reflection of "your" cars true operating characteristics. no two cars operate the same. two motors built side by side with the same identical parts will tune completely different.

start there.
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


Point taken.
Anonymous Coward
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01/05/2017 02:42 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
if bank 1 is detecting a false lean condition due to unmetered air, you'll see a big fluctuation in the reading on bank1o2 in freeze frame diagnostics. and was your pcm tune a mail order or real time tune?

*** you can also do a basic check if you have a good dtc reader. if your fuel trim is running greater than 10%, the computer is trying to compensate for something. one thing to remember here is that your car is supercharged. its better to run lean with boost than rich, so be careful running it hard until you get it straightened out. running rich with a boosted car opens up the opportunity for detonation...which is something you want to avoid like the plague.
 Quoting: BrokenTech




Always better to run rich no matter how it's boosted. Rich will give you some margin of safety. Lean will cause detonation / preignition issues. Lean is hot. Two strokes will seize if they go lean under (heavy) load / throttle.

Now, diesels on the other hand....
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


Would that be detected with the knock sensor? If so, the knocks are zero.
 Quoting: BrokenTech


Should. Any pinging / detonation / preignition should be picked up by the knock sensor (if working properly) and the PCM will dial back ignition advance (and richen the mixture in some applications) until the pinging / detonation ceases. It will then immediately start dialing in more advance until the pinging / detonation resumes. This "dance" happens at hundreds of times per second, and will continue until modified parameters are set, or higher octane fuel is used. If the octane rating of the fuel is high enough (for the maximum programmed spark timing advance), this pinging / detonation will never occur.
The Wild 0nes

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01/05/2017 02:43 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
if bank 1 is detecting a false lean condition due to unmetered air, you'll see a big fluctuation in the reading on bank1o2 in freeze frame diagnostics. and was your pcm tune a mail order or real time tune?

*** you can also do a basic check if you have a good dtc reader. if your fuel trim is running greater than 10%, the computer is trying to compensate for something. one thing to remember here is that your car is supercharged. its better to run lean with boost than rich, so be careful running it hard until you get it straightened out. running rich with a boosted car opens up the opportunity for detonation...which is something you want to avoid like the plague.
 Quoting: BrokenTech




Always better to run rich no matter how it's boosted. Rich will give you some margin of safety. Lean will cause detonation / preignition issues. Lean is hot. Two strokes will seize if they go lean under (heavy) load / throttle.

Now, diesels on the other hand....
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


not necessarily true with boost. N/A motors yes. with boost lean conditions rarely open up the chance of pre-ignition due to charge air being cooled prior to entering the plenum, lowering the IAT, and effectively having a cooling effect on the pistons. with boost (especially turbo) running rich to compensate for increased boost can cause detonation if proper compression ratios are not maintained I.E changing your stock supercharger pulley to create more boost, without changing the compression ratio to compensate for the increased pressure, changing the original Knock resistance characteristics.

Last Edited by The Wild 0nes on 01/05/2017 02:48 AM
The first step is to establish that something is possible; then probability will occur.


It's easy to stand in the crowd but it takes courage to stand alone

Do i look really like a guy with a plan? you know what i am? I'm a dog chasing cars. I wouldn't know what to do with one if i ever caught it. You know, I.. I just do things. The mobs have plans. The cops have plans. They're Schemers. Schemer's trying to control their little worlds.

I'm Not a Schemer.
Anonymous Coward
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South Africa
01/05/2017 02:47 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
could be the battery. I know when batteries go bad or leak they smell like rotten eggs.
 Quoting: BrianBKS 73260361


This ^^^^

The regulator is over-charging the battery.
 Quoting: Chaos Replicator


na, blinker fluid is burning causing the smell. it needs changed. headlight rings must be going bad. time for a rebuild.
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


epiclol
Anonymous Coward
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01/05/2017 02:47 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
Consider going back to a stock thermostat. Here's why:

The engine coolant sensor will signal the current temp to the PCM. If the PCM thinks the engine is cold or still warming to operating temp it will run with a rich mixture, usually by increasing the injector pulse width.

Running rich is one symptom of the rotting egg problem.
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 70959328


Not if that was sent with the "package" he bought. If that PCM tune was programmed around a 180 degree Tstat, he has the right setup. Hotter is always more efficient, but it may have been set up with a 180 degree Tstat to reduce the possibility of preignition / detonation under high ambients and / or low octane fuels.
BrokenTech  (OP)

User ID: 51566510
United States
01/05/2017 02:47 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
if bank 1 is detecting a false lean condition due to unmetered air, you'll see a big fluctuation in the reading on bank1o2 in freeze frame diagnostics. and was your pcm tune a mail order or real time tune?

*** you can also do a basic check if you have a good dtc reader. if your fuel trim is running greater than 10%, the computer is trying to compensate for something. one thing to remember here is that your car is supercharged. its better to run lean with boost than rich, so be careful running it hard until you get it straightened out. running rich with a boosted car opens up the opportunity for detonation...which is something you want to avoid like the plague.
 Quoting: BrokenTech




Always better to run rich no matter how it's boosted. Rich will give you some margin of safety. Lean will cause detonation / preignition issues. Lean is hot. Two strokes will seize if they go lean under (heavy) load / throttle.

Now, diesels on the other hand....
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


Would that be detected with the knock sensor? If so, the knocks are zero.
 Quoting: BrokenTech


Should. Any pinging / detonation / preignition should be picked up by the knock sensor (if working properly) and the PCM will dial back ignition advance (and richen the mixture in some applications) until the pinging / detonation ceases. It will then immediately start dialing in more advance until the pinging / detonation resumes. This "dance" happens at hundreds of times per second, and will continue until modified parameters are set, or higher octane fuel is used. If the octane rating of the fuel is high enough (for the maximum programmed spark timing advance), this pinging / detonation will never occur.
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


Using premium like the manufacturer recommends.
BrokenTech  (OP)

User ID: 51566510
United States
01/05/2017 02:49 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
if bank 1 is detecting a false lean condition due to unmetered air, you'll see a big fluctuation in the reading on bank1o2 in freeze frame diagnostics. and was your pcm tune a mail order or real time tune?

*** you can also do a basic check if you have a good dtc reader. if your fuel trim is running greater than 10%, the computer is trying to compensate for something. one thing to remember here is that your car is supercharged. its better to run lean with boost than rich, so be careful running it hard until you get it straightened out. running rich with a boosted car opens up the opportunity for detonation...which is something you want to avoid like the plague.
 Quoting: BrokenTech




Always better to run rich no matter how it's boosted. Rich will give you some margin of safety. Lean will cause detonation / preignition issues. Lean is hot. Two strokes will seize if they go lean under (heavy) load / throttle.

Now, diesels on the other hand....
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


not necessarily true with boost. N/A motors yes. with boost lean conditions rarely open up the chance of pre-ignition. with boost ( especially turbo) running rich to compensate for increased boost can cause detonation if proper compression ratios are not maintained I.E changing your stock supercharger pulley to create more boost, without changing the compression ratio to compensate for the increased pressure, changing the original Knock resistance characteristics.
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


I will get torque pro out and monitor the trim.
BrokenTech  (OP)

User ID: 51566510
United States
01/05/2017 02:51 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
clogged cat homie!

clogged cat can be caused by faulty bank 1 o2 sensor giving false reading causing the computer to think its running lean and dumping extra fuel. or it could be caused by either a faulty thermostat or coolant temperature sensor, which would cause the computer to do the same thing. or if its a car that utilizes a secondary air pump for emissions, a faulty solenoid would cause the vehicle to run rich, causing cat to become clogged. clogged cat can easily be checked by using a infrared temp gun to measure the temps at the front and rear of cat. if the temps are close to the same its not clogged, but if the engine side is significantly higher....bingo!

but rotten egg smell generally points to a clogged cat.
you will also notice a decrease in power, especially under load or going up steep hills. vehicle will seem to "bog" down

Problem-rotten egg smell
rotten egg smell generally points to clogged cat
Clogged cat generally caused by a rich fuel mixture condition
running rich generally caused a failure in any of sensors related to the fuel/emissions

bank 1 & 2 o2 sensors
map or maf sensor
IAT or coolant temp sensor
secondary air system
egr system

a sticking open secondary air solenoid or egr valve can cause a engine to run rich without throwing a DTC by allowing unmetered air into the exhaust system, causing bank 1 to detect a lean fuel mixture and adding fuel to compensate resulting in a unnecessary rich fuel mixture condition.
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


The car is an 01 Grand Prix GTP modded.

Its not clogged, but thats not to say it will not get that way. It has plenty of power, it still turns the wheels over at 40 mph if I put the pedal down just like it did when I originally installed the mods.

It does not always have the smell. I tend to baby it around town and if I get in it a little bit it starts. As was mentioned in an earlier post about running it harder seems to help, if I get on the highway for 40 miles or so it stops for a few weeks. Changing where I get gas also makes it stop for awhile. Running it harder does indeed seem to make it go away, for awhile. When I am out tomorrow I will run the dog shit out of it and see what happens.

According to the computer, everything is still functioning fine, no fault codes. My real time OBDII software(torque pro) shows the temp as 180 degrees as it should be with a 180 degree thermostat. Short of actually doing manual checks with voltmeters and such, I am assuming the computer would alert me if something was running out of spec.

Running rich I suppose could be a possibility here if unmetered air is getting in, I will check into it.
 Quoting: BrokenTech


if bank 1 is detecting a false lean condition due to unmetered air, you'll see a big fluctuation in the reading on bank1o2 in freeze frame diagnostics. and was your pcm tune a mail order or real time tune?
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


I was fortunate in once meeting an engineer that worked at GM. I had the opportunity talk with him and told him what I wanted for some end results. Afterwards he told me he would come up with a setup and get back with me. He called me a few days later and we discussed what he had in mind. He said if I agreed to the charges he would put it together and ship it all to me and I could just install it. I agreed.

Several days later the shipment start arriving.

Once all had been received it included:

New exhaust, cat back
180 t-stat
NGK spark plugs
New poly serpentine belts
New plug wires - Taylor 8mm
K&N air filter with new enclosure (mainly a moisture shield, its open otherwise and gets all the air it wants)
Reduced size supercharger pulley(not so small that requires headers)
New PCM
And a puller for the supercharger pulley.

I think that is it.

The price included a deposit for the PCM and puller which would be refunded if I sent them back. I ended up keeping both.

The way this was put together and the person doing it he probably had the tools from GM to program the PCM the way it should be. I lost his contact information, however.
 Quoting: BrokenTech


Oh yeah, also came with new head gasket and valve cover gaskets.
Anonymous Coward
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01/05/2017 03:06 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
if bank 1 is detecting a false lean condition due to unmetered air, you'll see a big fluctuation in the reading on bank1o2 in freeze frame diagnostics. and was your pcm tune a mail order or real time tune?

*** you can also do a basic check if you have a good dtc reader. if your fuel trim is running greater than 10%, the computer is trying to compensate for something. one thing to remember here is that your car is supercharged. its better to run lean with boost than rich, so be careful running it hard until you get it straightened out. running rich with a boosted car opens up the opportunity for detonation...which is something you want to avoid like the plague.
 Quoting: BrokenTech




Always better to run rich no matter how it's boosted. Rich will give you some margin of safety. Lean will cause detonation / preignition issues. Lean is hot. Two strokes will seize if they go lean under (heavy) load / throttle.

Now, diesels on the other hand....
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


not necessarily true with boost. N/A motors yes. with boost lean conditions rarely open up the chance of pre-ignition due to charge air being cooled prior to entering the plenum, lowering the IAT, and effectively having a cooling effect on the pistons. with boost (especially turbo) running rich to compensate for increased boost can cause detonation if proper compression ratios are not maintained I.E changing your stock supercharger pulley to create more boost, without changing the compression ratio to compensate for the increased pressure, changing the original Knock resistance characteristics.
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes



I respectfully disagree. Lean is what is going to smoke a piston. Rich is going to have a cooling effect.

Now, if you are referring to going way lean from stoich, and getting a "cooling" effect from that I may agree with you. But you are only fooling yourself with that. Increasing boost (to increase power / BMEP) and then having to run lean to prevent full heat is a crutch to justify the boost number. You should be able to achieve slightly richer than stoich (say, 12.5:1) at a given CR and boost number. In other words, you should not be running lean to justify CR and Boost numbers. This is not how you achieve maximum Brake Mean Effective Pressure.
Anonymous Coward
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01/05/2017 03:11 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
Cat converter is correct.
 Quoting: anonymous 71647481
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
a rotting battery will also smell of sulfer. being overcharged.
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
if bank 1 is detecting a false lean condition due to unmetered air, you'll see a big fluctuation in the reading on bank1o2 in freeze frame diagnostics. and was your pcm tune a mail order or real time tune?

*** you can also do a basic check if you have a good dtc reader. if your fuel trim is running greater than 10%, the computer is trying to compensate for something. one thing to remember here is that your car is supercharged. its better to run lean with boost than rich, so be careful running it hard until you get it straightened out. running rich with a boosted car opens up the opportunity for detonation...which is something you want to avoid like the plague.
 Quoting: BrokenTech




Always better to run rich no matter how it's boosted. Rich will give you some margin of safety. Lean will cause detonation / preignition issues. Lean is hot. Two strokes will seize if they go lean under (heavy) load / throttle.

Now, diesels on the other hand....
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


not necessarily true with boost. N/A motors yes. with boost lean conditions rarely open up the chance of pre-ignition due to charge air being cooled prior to entering the plenum, lowering the IAT, and effectively having a cooling effect on the pistons. with boost (especially turbo) running rich to compensate for increased boost can cause detonation if proper compression ratios are not maintained I.E changing your stock supercharger pulley to create more boost, without changing the compression ratio to compensate for the increased pressure, changing the original Knock resistance characteristics.
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes



I respectfully disagree. Lean is what is going to smoke a piston. Rich is going to have a cooling effect.

Now, if you are referring to going way lean from stoich, and getting a "cooling" effect from that I may agree with you. But you are only fooling yourself with that. Increasing boost (to increase power / BMEP) and then having to run lean to prevent full heat is a crutch to justify the boost number. You should be able to achieve slightly richer than stoich (say, 12.5:1) at a given CR and boost number. In other words, you should not be running lean to justify CR and Boost numbers. This is not how you achieve maximum Brake Mean Effective Pressure.
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


Can you elaborate?

Never mind, I looked it up.

Last Edited by BrokenTech on 01/05/2017 03:13 AM
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
Has checking the O2 sensor voltage waveform been discussed yet?
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
a rotting battery will also smell of sulfer. being overcharged.
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73665800


Nah dude. Haven't you heard?

It's all about 10% too rich or too lean, catalytic converters and shit...

chuckle
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
a rotting battery will also smell of sulfer. being overcharged.
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73665800


Nah dude. Haven't you heard?

It's all about 10% too rich or too lean, catalytic converters and shit...

chuckle
 Quoting: Chaos Replicator


0nmyt0es
The first step is to establish that something is possible; then probability will occur.


It's easy to stand in the crowd but it takes courage to stand alone

Do i look really like a guy with a plan? you know what i am? I'm a dog chasing cars. I wouldn't know what to do with one if i ever caught it. You know, I.. I just do things. The mobs have plans. The cops have plans. They're Schemers. Schemer's trying to control their little worlds.

I'm Not a Schemer.
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
...




Always better to run rich no matter how it's boosted. Rich will give you some margin of safety. Lean will cause detonation / preignition issues. Lean is hot. Two strokes will seize if they go lean under (heavy) load / throttle.

Now, diesels on the other hand....
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


not necessarily true with boost. N/A motors yes. with boost lean conditions rarely open up the chance of pre-ignition due to charge air being cooled prior to entering the plenum, lowering the IAT, and effectively having a cooling effect on the pistons. with boost (especially turbo) running rich to compensate for increased boost can cause detonation if proper compression ratios are not maintained I.E changing your stock supercharger pulley to create more boost, without changing the compression ratio to compensate for the increased pressure, changing the original Knock resistance characteristics.
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes



I respectfully disagree. Lean is what is going to smoke a piston. Rich is going to have a cooling effect.

Now, if you are referring to going way lean from stoich, and getting a "cooling" effect from that I may agree with you. But you are only fooling yourself with that. Increasing boost (to increase power / BMEP) and then having to run lean to prevent full heat is a crutch to justify the boost number. You should be able to achieve slightly richer than stoich (say, 12.5:1) at a given CR and boost number. In other words, you should not be running lean to justify CR and Boost numbers. This is not how you achieve maximum Brake Mean Effective Pressure.
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


Can you elaborate?

Never mind, I looked it up.
 Quoting: BrokenTech


I wouldn't get too hung up on any of that. That was just the two of us going on about combustion semantics of sorts, and really doesn't have anything to do with your particular issue.

You need to determine if you are indeed running too rich, and if so, why.
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
head gasket
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
a rotting battery will also smell of sulfer. being overcharged.
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73665800


Nah dude. Haven't you heard?

It's all about 10% too rich or too lean, catalytic converters and shit...

chuckle
 Quoting: Chaos Replicator


:0nmyt0es:
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


:hilarybop:
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
...


not necessarily true with boost. N/A motors yes. with boost lean conditions rarely open up the chance of pre-ignition due to charge air being cooled prior to entering the plenum, lowering the IAT, and effectively having a cooling effect on the pistons. with boost (especially turbo) running rich to compensate for increased boost can cause detonation if proper compression ratios are not maintained I.E changing your stock supercharger pulley to create more boost, without changing the compression ratio to compensate for the increased pressure, changing the original Knock resistance characteristics.
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes



I respectfully disagree. Lean is what is going to smoke a piston. Rich is going to have a cooling effect.

Now, if you are referring to going way lean from stoich, and getting a "cooling" effect from that I may agree with you. But you are only fooling yourself with that. Increasing boost (to increase power / BMEP) and then having to run lean to prevent full heat is a crutch to justify the boost number. You should be able to achieve slightly richer than stoich (say, 12.5:1) at a given CR and boost number. In other words, you should not be running lean to justify CR and Boost numbers. This is not how you achieve maximum Brake Mean Effective Pressure.
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


Can you elaborate?

Never mind, I looked it up.
 Quoting: BrokenTech


I wouldn't get too hung up on any of that. That was just the two of us going on about combustion semantics of sorts, and really doesn't have anything to do with your particular issue.

You need to determine if you are indeed running too rich, and if so, why.
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


And I will need to check to see if the trim is 10% or greater. Right?
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
:0nmyt0es:
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


You're pretty sharp dude. I enjoyed that. Def not what I expected to find on a conspiracy forum some random night. LOL

Are you a tech? Enthusiast? Student?
The Wild 0nes

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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
0nmyt0es
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


You're pretty sharp dude. I enjoyed that. Def not what I expected to find on a conspiracy forum some random night. LOL

Are you a tech? Enthusiast? Student?
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


ah im nobody. just a guy who builds 700hp 1.6 ltrs in his garage as a hobby. I'm actually a Welder/fabricator by trade.
The first step is to establish that something is possible; then probability will occur.


It's easy to stand in the crowd but it takes courage to stand alone

Do i look really like a guy with a plan? you know what i am? I'm a dog chasing cars. I wouldn't know what to do with one if i ever caught it. You know, I.. I just do things. The mobs have plans. The cops have plans. They're Schemers. Schemer's trying to control their little worlds.

I'm Not a Schemer.
BrokenTech  (OP)

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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
0nmyt0es
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


You're pretty sharp dude. I enjoyed that. Def not what I expected to find on a conspiracy forum some random night. LOL

Are you a tech? Enthusiast? Student?
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


I was reluctant to even post the question. I even went on a Grand Prix modding forum and the only answers I could get there as well was to just replace the cat or I needed headers because I dropped the SC pulley. Like I said, not a pro, but know bullshit when I hear it.

There are some pretty smart people here if you can wade through all the dumb asses to find them. Need to drain the swamp I suppose.

Thanks for your insight.

Last Edited by BrokenTech on 01/05/2017 03:48 AM
BrokenTech  (OP)

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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
0nmyt0es
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


You're pretty sharp dude. I enjoyed that. Def not what I expected to find on a conspiracy forum some random night. LOL

Are you a tech? Enthusiast? Student?
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


ah im nobody. just a guy who builds 700hp 1.6 ltrs in his garage as a hobby. I'm actually a Welder/fabricator by trade.
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


Thanks for your help too.
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Re: Question for the Auto Mechanics, Rotten Egg Smell *REVISITED* Pg 5
:0nmyt0es:
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


You're pretty sharp dude. I enjoyed that. Def not what I expected to find on a conspiracy forum some random night. LOL

Are you a tech? Enthusiast? Student?
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 73706403


ah im nobody. just a guy who builds 700hp 1.6 ltrs in his garage as a hobby. I'm actually a Welder/fabricator by trade.
 Quoting: The Wild 0nes


HaHa. I LIKE that.

What part of the country? I'm in Maryland.





GLP