Need some help with car repair.. Final Update pg.7 | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 76704751 Mexico 06/24/2019 12:12 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Anonymous Coward 77717734 And by the way, I have 3,000,000 KM into 17 cars over decades and never let a mechanic touch a single one. Everybody would bring their cars to me for engine rebuilds, trans replacements, etc. Never had a CV joint EVER need force on anything. As an experienced mechanic that has changed hundreds of CV shafts, I can confidently say that you are either lying or just inexperienced. On a new car they do slide right out of the wheel hub, sure. Things are different on an old car up north where we salt the roads all winter. The inside joint where the shaft meets the trans is different. No rust there, as it’s bathed in trans fluid. However, most are held in place with a circlip that often requires significant force to dislodge. Usually about five times the force an amateur would imagine might be required. Maybe I am just good at it then. A circlip would not be a mystery. Something is seriously amiss and I have worked in ASE garages, just never did a CV joint in one, every CV joint I ever did was in my own garage with my own tools. It is like mandela effect this thread, I have never heard of a CV joint that did not just slide out beautifully. Am I THAT MUCH better at maintenance? Probably at least 15 CV joints in my life, NEVER heard of this, EVER. I think Op missed something. The spindle the CV joint goes into has to be DANGLING. If it is not, something got missed. And if someone did not know what a C clip does, it would be doom. There will be a large nut that has to be spun off first thing. If op did not spin that nut off (most people do not have tools that go that high) - did anyone confirm OP did at least that? It sounds to me like it is not fully disassembled and op is beating on hopelessness. Never did a CV joint in an ASE garage because I handled all the electronics. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 76483244 United States 06/24/2019 12:13 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Had the same problem on a 2011 Toyota Sienna. It took me 6 hours on the passenger side. It was not stuck in transmission, it was stuck in the support fixture. Definitely use some PB blaster, the capillary action of this material will pay off. It took 6 hours because every time I applied PB blaster, I let it dwell for 15 minutes. I used an air hammer. It was exhausting, but it finally came out. Make sure you have removed the snap ring. Quoting: Anonymous Coward 76483244 After it is removed, when your putting the new one in, I highly recommend that you put a high quality grease on the support fixture. Also, there are two small set pins on the fixture when you remove it from the engine block. Remove these pins and don’t reinstall them. This saved my ass the second time I had to remove the axle for replacement. It was again stuck after two years of use. Instead of and airhammer the second time, I simply unbolted the fixture, and removed the fixture from the axle on a table clamp. Adding to what I just said, it is also possible to remove a small bolt on the fixture. If you can find a longer bolt of the same size, you can drive it into the fixture and literally break the bearing that’s rusted up inside the fixture. That where it’s holding on. The breaking of this bearing will allow more PB Blaster to penetrate into the rusty areas, allowing your air hammer to be more effective. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77755599 United States 06/24/2019 12:13 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Tree of Life User ID: 19001745 Canada 06/24/2019 12:41 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Had the same problem on a 2011 Toyota Sienna. It took me 6 hours on the passenger side. It was not stuck in transmission, it was stuck in the support fixture. Definitely use some PB blaster, the capillary action of this material will pay off. It took 6 hours because every time I applied PB blaster, I let it dwell for 15 minutes. I used an air hammer. It was exhausting, but it finally came out. Make sure you have removed the snap ring. Quoting: Anonymous Coward 76483244 After it is removed, when your putting the new one in, I highly recommend that you put a high quality grease on the support fixture. Also, there are two small set pins on the fixture when you remove it from the engine block. Remove these pins and don’t reinstall them. This saved my ass the second time I had to remove the axle for replacement. It was again stuck after two years of use. Instead of and airhammer the second time, I simply unbolted the fixture, and removed the fixture from the axle on a table clamp. Adding to what I just said, it is also possible to remove a small bolt on the fixture. If you can find a longer bolt of the same size, you can drive it into the fixture and literally break the bearing that’s rusted up inside the fixture. That where it’s holding on. The breaking of this bearing will allow more PB Blaster to penetrate into the rusty areas, allowing your air hammer to be more effective. Great post and advice for OP! I have tried that longer bolt method and it worked great. I would add that a graphite-based anti-seize product is better than grease. "All you may know of heaven or hell is within your own self." - Edgar Cayce |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77755580 United States 06/24/2019 12:47 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77755580 United States 06/24/2019 12:49 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 72268044 United States 06/24/2019 01:35 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
HarshingMyMellow User ID: 77754914 United States 06/24/2019 02:03 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | No. I have removed the clip. It is the last half of the axle that won't come out. I am in a tight space but I can hammer away yet that does not seem to be working. The video is exactly what mine looks like except mine will not come out. I have air hammered so much that the bearings are showing where they fit into the bracket thing. I also think it might be stuck in the bracket thing. The clip I removed had to be pryed out because it was so rusted. Did you WD40 it? ========================== Psalm 46:10 Be still, and know that I am God: I will be exalted among the heathen, I will be exalted in the earth. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 57613246 Canada 06/24/2019 02:22 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 53927732 United States 06/24/2019 04:10 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Ugh, we're going to have to replace our CV axle asap. We've already been driving on it for over a month now, knowing it was leaking and needing to be replaced. Quoting: BleachedPink1111 My boyfriend just replaced my entire rear suspension. Had to cut off a few bolts, and use a torch on others. Your bf is a crappy backyard mechanic. WTF you talking about? He has saved us hundreds of dollars. I was referring to 2 different cars, btw. Fuck off sounds like he traded pussy for a hellish auto job without the right tools. definition of whats wrong with men today. |
Halfing User ID: 76753321 Hungary 06/24/2019 04:52 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 73106219 United States 06/24/2019 05:24 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | This is why I use Nev'r-Seize on parts like this. Quoting: Anonymous Coward 77749746 You can't get to the bolt with a swivel socket or universal? It costs nothing to use the loan-a-tool program at auto stores. Slide hammer with puller attachment is what you need now. You'll never get it hot enough to do anything and the oil soak is going nowhere but the floor. I can't get to the nuts with any tool other than a wrench and given my injury I can't get the leverage I need. I have renter those tools and nothing worked. Is there sufficient room to "double wrench"? Where you put the box end of a combination wrench on and then place another box end over the open end of the first wrench? (making a wrench twice as long for more leverage) Surely if there were room for that you could get a 'breaker bar' or long, quality ratchet and socket on those bolts? Good quality tools can even hold up with a 'cheater pipe' added for more leverage? Damn it man! I understand what you are saying. The problem I am having is not having enough room to properly get the leverage. I have an exhaust pipe that runs right next to one bolt and the axle that blocks both bottom bolts. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77179859 United States 06/24/2019 06:00 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Ugh, we're going to have to replace our CV axle asap. We've already been driving on it for over a month now, knowing it was leaking and needing to be replaced. Quoting: BleachedPink1111 My boyfriend just replaced my entire rear suspension. Had to cut off a few bolts, and use a torch on others. Your bf is a crappy backyard mechanic. WTF you talking about? He has saved us hundreds of dollars. I was referring to 2 different cars, btw. Fuck off sounds like he traded pussy for a hellish auto job without the right tools. definition of whats wrong with men today. Sounds to me as you are the one lacking any type of experience, especially couth. |
Hnry Bwmn User ID: 77754869 United States 06/24/2019 06:02 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 73106219 United States 06/24/2019 06:03 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Overgoverned User ID: 52594113 United States 06/24/2019 06:12 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | I'd be using an angle grinder, rather than the super $10 reciprocating saw blade. Even though it sounds impressive. Now, it'd kill me that I was ruining my chances of getting my core charge refunded, but the AutoZone listing that you shared (page 1) didn't indicate that there even was a core charge. Once you cut the shaft, the carrier bearing no longer poses a problem. The remaining part of the shaft ought to come right out of the transaxle (knock on wood). You will need the carrier bearing when you reassemble things, but with that part of the shaft sitting on your workbench, all it'll require would be some vigorous tapping with a BFH. The YouTube comments are universally positive that this is the way to do it. And needless to say, you're obliged to report to us when it's all put back together. |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 73106219 United States 06/24/2019 06:14 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | It sounds to me like cutting the shaft is the answer (YT video on page 6 previous, I think). Quoting: Overgoverned I'd be using an angle grinder, rather than the super $10 reciprocating saw blade. Even though it sounds impressive. Now, it'd kill me that I was ruining my chances of getting my core charge refunded, but the AutoZone listing that you shared (page 1) didn't indicate that there even was a core charge. Once you cut the shaft, the carrier bearing no longer poses a problem. The remaining part of the shaft ought to come right out of the transaxle (knock on wood). You will need the carrier bearing when you reassemble things, but with that part of the shaft sitting on your workbench, all it'll require would be some vigorous tapping with a BFH. The YouTube comments are universally positive that this is the way to do it. And needless to say, you're obliged to report to us when it's all put back together. I got the cv axle brand new for $60 (coupons and discounts for signing up for email crap, worth it) and there was no core charge. I will definitely update the thread when I have finally fixed it. |
Hnry Bwmn User ID: 77754869 United States 06/24/2019 06:19 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Overgoverned User ID: 52594113 United States 06/24/2019 06:27 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | I got the cv axle brand new for $60 (coupons and discounts for signing up for email crap, worth it) and there was no core charge. I will definitely update the thread when I have finally fixed it. Quoting: Bananafighter Hmmmm . . . that sounds to me like you went to one of the other non-Zone parts stores, the one that often has internet discount codes to "advance" their prospects. I've done that. The shamrock store has some sort of gimmick like that, too, but I kinda think it's a one-time thing. I don't get junk e-mail from them, though, so maybe that was something different. $60 is a great price. That's about what I paid for one about 30 years ago (before internet and before the current group of discount retail parts stores). $60 was a VERY good price 30 years ago, when money was still worth a little something. I got mine from that one giant catalog store in Chicago. |
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Anonymous Coward User ID: 76465586 United States 06/24/2019 07:31 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
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Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 73106219 United States 06/25/2019 04:09 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Update, So I finally got the damn thing off. I was able to get the 3 bolts hold the bearing bracket and it popped right out. Now I have to wait for the new bracket because the old one is pretty much a part of the axle now. It is so rusted that it has fused to the bearing itself. Crazy. |
Overgoverned User ID: 52594113 United States 06/25/2019 04:38 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | How'd you get the one inaccessible bolt out? I don't think I've seen any pictures of the configuration, but it sounded like it was engineered not to be reachable. Although I did see something about someone who found a special $nap On wrench that was supposed to be able to do it (and the guy found it second-hand, so maybe he didn't have to pay $100 for it). You say the bearing and the bracket are fused. I was sort of hoping that it'd be able to be beaten into submission, once you had it out in the open where you could give your sledgehammer a full swing at it. Or maybe 100 full swings. Oh, well. So far, so good. We're pulling for ya! |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 73106219 United States 06/25/2019 04:57 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | How'd you get the one inaccessible bolt out? I don't think I've seen any pictures of the configuration, but it sounded like it was engineered not to be reachable. Although I did see something about someone who found a special $nap On wrench that was supposed to be able to do it (and the guy found it second-hand, so maybe he didn't have to pay $100 for it). Quoting: Overgoverned You say the bearing and the bracket are fused. I was sort of hoping that it'd be able to be beaten into submission, once you had it out in the open where you could give your sledgehammer a full swing at it. Or maybe 100 full swings. Oh, well. So far, so good. We're pulling for ya! I ended up buying an 8" 14mm wrench and a 3' iron pipe. You are only able to get a wrench on it with just your finger tips. The pipe helped with leverage. I had to twist the axle shaft in order to (very, very) slowly twist the bolt out with my finger tips. Once that last bolt was out the crazy began. The bracket itself needed to (somehow) be twisted around in order to knock the axle out. I couldn't just knock the axle out once the bracket was unbolted because there is a slight angle on the engine block right next to the bracket. So I had to pull slightly on the axle shaft with one hand while trying to twist the bracket with the other. This is easily the worst design I have ever seen. I can't imagine how a real mechanic would do it differently. Toyota clearly has a design flaw in this model. I'd love to save the $100 for the new bracket (which I had to buy from the dealer) but it is straight up fused. I placed a bolt in the "snug hole" (I guess it's called that) and tightened it until the bearing broke. Upon looking inside more closely at it, it is just fused solid. Even if I managed to get the bearing out (which I don't think is possible) I would have to spend a few hours trying to grind the rest of it out. I had no idea that metal could fuse like that. It's actually really impressive albeit expensive. |
Overgoverned User ID: 52594113 United States 06/25/2019 05:21 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | I ended up buying an 8" 14mm wrench and a 3' iron pipe. You are only able to get a wrench on it with just your finger tips. The pipe helped with leverage. I had to twist the axle shaft in order to (very, very) slowly twist the bolt out with my finger tips. Quoting: Bananafighter Once that last bolt was out the crazy began. The bracket itself needed to (somehow) be twisted around in order to knock the axle out. I couldn't just knock the axle out once the bracket was unbolted because there is a slight angle on the engine block right next to the bracket. So I had to pull slightly on the axle shaft with one hand while trying to twist the bracket with the other. This is easily the worst design I have ever seen. I can't imagine how a real mechanic would do it differently. Toyota clearly has a design flaw in this model. I'd love to save the $100 for the new bracket (which I had to buy from the dealer) but it is straight up fused. I placed a bolt in the "snug hole" (I guess it's called that) and tightened it until the bearing broke. Upon looking inside more closely at it, it is just fused solid. Even if I managed to get the bearing out (which I don't think is possible) I would have to spend a few hours trying to grind the rest of it out. I had no idea that metal could fuse like that. It's actually really impressive albeit expensive. Had you called around to find out what a shop with real mechanics would have charged for this job? I don't think I could hire it out, even if they said they'd do it for $1. I might be fibbing there, but on the other hand, I don't think I'd be quoted $1 for it, either. And they'd have dinged you $150 for the $100 bracket, too. $100 for a dumb bracket. Less than $1 for the metal; a buck or two for engineering it; $10 for freight; $60 markup for the dealer; and the rest goes to Nissan. If you'd hired the job out, you wouldn't have the stitches in your hand, I guess. But when you look at it from that angle, we probably shouldn't do anything ourselves for fear of possible injury. A lot of people choke on food, you know. Maybe we should just hire someone else to do our eating for us. Last Edited by Overgoverned on 06/25/2019 05:32 AM |
JimmyBones User ID: 77745921 United States 06/25/2019 05:22 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Update, So I finally got the damn thing off. I was able to get the 3 bolts hold the bearing bracket and it popped right out. Now I have to wait for the new bracket because the old one is pretty much a part of the axle now. It is so rusted that it has fused to the bearing itself. Crazy. Quoting: Bananafighter Good job man. I've lived this hell through you from the comfort of my couch and lovely cup of Kratom tea. Feel like I helped in some small way. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77355363 United States 06/25/2019 05:38 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Update, So I finally got the damn thing off. I was able to get the 3 bolts hold the bearing bracket and it popped right out. Now I have to wait for the new bracket because the old one is pretty much a part of the axle now. It is so rusted that it has fused to the bearing itself. Crazy. Quoting: Bananafighter Good job man. I've lived this hell through you from the comfort of my couch and lovely cup of Kratom tea. Feel like I helped in some small way. Me,too,but without the tea. |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 73106219 United States 06/25/2019 05:38 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | I ended up buying an 8" 14mm wrench and a 3' iron pipe. You are only able to get a wrench on it with just your finger tips. The pipe helped with leverage. I had to twist the axle shaft in order to (very, very) slowly twist the bolt out with my finger tips. Quoting: Bananafighter Once that last bolt was out the crazy began. The bracket itself needed to (somehow) be twisted around in order to knock the axle out. I couldn't just knock the axle out once the bracket was unbolted because there is a slight angle on the engine block right next to the bracket. So I had to pull slightly on the axle shaft with one hand while trying to twist the bracket with the other. This is easily the worst design I have ever seen. I can't imagine how a real mechanic would do it differently. Toyota clearly has a design flaw in this model. I'd love to save the $100 for the new bracket (which I had to buy from the dealer) but it is straight up fused. I placed a bolt in the "snug hole" (I guess it's called that) and tightened it until the bearing broke. Upon looking inside more closely at it, it is just fused solid. Even if I managed to get the bearing out (which I don't think is possible) I would have to spend a few hours trying to grind the rest of it out. I had no idea that metal could fuse like that. It's actually really impressive albeit expensive. Had you called around to find out what a shop with real mechanics would have charged for this job? I don't think I could hire it out, even if they said they'd do it for $1. I might be fibbing there, but on the other hand, I don't think I'd be quoted $1 for it, either. And they'd have dinged you $150 for the $100 bracket, too. $100 for a dumb bracket. Less than $1 for the metal; a buck or two for engineering it; $10 for freight; $60 markup for the dealer; and the rest goes to Nissan. If you'd hired the job out, you wouldn't have the stitches in your hand, I guess. But when you look at it from that angle, we probably shouldn't do anything ourselves for fear of possible injury. Given that I replaced both front strut assemblies, both inner and outer tie rod ends, passenger cv axle, power steering pump; the whole job would have run around $3500. No way I've got that laying around. Yeah I screwed my hand up and may have some nerve damage but there is a satisfaction to completing the job though. That said, this may be my last big repair job and yes the injury plays a part in that thought process. With the nerve damage and just how much pain it caused, it's not a fear thing just a desire to do no further damage to my hand. I still need to be able to pick up my granddaughter. But hey, at least I did a huge repair job and accomplished what I set out to do. |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 73106219 United States 06/25/2019 05:40 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Update, So I finally got the damn thing off. I was able to get the 3 bolts hold the bearing bracket and it popped right out. Now I have to wait for the new bracket because the old one is pretty much a part of the axle now. It is so rusted that it has fused to the bearing itself. Crazy. Quoting: Bananafighter Good job man. I've lived this hell through you from the comfort of my couch and lovely cup of Kratom tea. Feel like I helped in some small way. Honestly, without this post I might still be under the damn thing hammering away in a futile attempt to make something happen. I want to thank everyone for posting. Whether it was something helpful or even little goofy comments and jokes. It all played a factor. From being useful to taking my mind off of the sheer anger I felt. Thanks GLP. |