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Message Subject Tractor Tards get in here... Tarctor Tard Thread
Poster Handle Anonymous Coward
Post Content
Your welcome. I am happy to help.

Injector Pumps:
You will want to run a standyne lubricity fformula in the fuel. ULSD is hard on the injector pumps in anything, and the extra LUBE will keep everything happy and keep the injector nozzles from wearing thin and over fueling your cylinder as a hydro lock will snap a rod or the crank.

Check your air filter for cleanliness and hold a light behind it to see if it is "loaded"

Run 15-40 SYN oil in her, never run a dino oil of 15-40. If you are on budget then run 5-40 in the winter if you are on dino.

Replace the wiper blade as it will always be fucked up when you need it to clear the window.

NEVEr use starting fluid on her. if you need a bit of extra spray in wd-40 but arolsolized not out of the red rod that it comes with. You want a mist in there not loads of liquid.

Put a back up alarm hooked to the reverse gear outputs of the park lock apparatus. Very easy to back over a kid or your wife or dog in these things given the HIGH read wheel stance. This is heavy enough it will push your guts out your ass if it runs over you. Backing this up you ALWAYS need to make sure it is clear. Always and every single time.

COE center of effort is pretty high on these units, id stay off anything 22.5 degree's or better. You can improve these numbers by keeping your bucket low if transiting a tippy spot, and also you can add a "blade" to her ass if you are clearing snow.

Cheange the water fuel seperator filter if it has one, or drain the bowel. As diesel sits it will absorb water, a bit of water sucked into your pump will kill your pump/injectors.

Water sits at bottom on tank in these, take a coat hanger and bend it at the end 2 inches at a 90. with a light put the "rod" down into the fuel watching the end of your 90, it will dissapear if there is water on bottom. Any traces of water, and you need to suck that tank out.

There is a little "pin" on the lee side of the fuel pump, it is your bleed screw, if you ever change filters or open up the lines, you will get some air. That air will need to escape out the pin (set screw with jam nut) so the pump can pressure up. You noticed how she fired right up, if she ever does not fire right uop, do not crank it over and over again, the pump may be dry and you will score shit bad.

There is so much... where do I end it?

Good fuel and oil.
clean fuel
clean filters
lots of batt power
watch reversing it.

thats about it for now, if you run into anything I can help you answer, send a note.


1999 Case IH C50

1800 hours!

Supposedly 53HP
 Quoting: #521

Descent unit made in England in IH factory. The Perkins 3cyl is a good workhorse like most all Perkins.

You will want to skid the 650 cca and put in a good bat, as these starters draw lots of AMPS in cold weather and it will kill your starter cranking with low amps.

put in a 1200 cca Optima, and you'll never have a problem starting it even in as low as -30c.

differential hydraulic wet disc, you need to keep a good eye on DIFF fluid contamination and how much water it has absorbed. Id drain it and refill it ASAP, as they are always over looked.

Enjoy your new Trac
 Quoting: Anonymous Coward 75868206

Many thanks for the invaluable info! Will def look into what you suggest. Would love to hear anything else you have to add.

I showed up unannounced to check it out. Verified it was cold (34 deg F out) and the damn thing fired up instantly. I was impressed.
 Quoting: #521
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