Surfing with Whales - Teahupoo - BEAUTIFUL!

Surfing looks fun...it took me about two minutes to learn how to ski, I bet I could learn to surf pretty fast too...

:BRUMP:

I have heard surfing is one of the hardest sports to master. I believe it. I've been surfing since I was 12-13, so it is natural for me now.

It was definitely one of the hardest things to learn, but now it's second nature, nothing's more relaxing either

I would think riding a unicycle on a tightrope would be the most difficult, but I dunno...

Think about it. Nothing is stationary in surfing. Everything is in motion, including the mountain your riding.

What an awesome video! Thanks for sharing.

It's kind of a different thing. Surfers are in tune with the rhythm of life through the ocean, tides and planets. I came from 22 years in Chicago and moved to Cal for school where I lived one mile up the beach from Rincon Point. I rented a room from a Viet Nam vet/surfer and his wife. He taught me to surf. I learned what "locals only" means fast.

You can almost always tell a surfer. They have some sort of raw, natural, in-tune with the rhythm of the tides and earth type of energy. For most it's a way of life. Work hard and play harder.

"Riding a unicycle on a tightrope" is a definite skill. But surfing tends to define who you are. It's not as easy as you think.

I just got back from Santa Barbara, Ca, and saw seals, dolphins and whales all in one shot. You'll always see seals. Sometimes see dolphins. And a couple of times a year see whales. They don't usually migrate this time of the year. To see them from the cliffs all at once is a cool experience. Even my dog was watching. Sometimes you can go to Rincon and watch dolphins riding the waves alongside the surfers at sunrise.

Now that I've seen it from above and below, I can't live away from the ocean.

Awesome. at the locals only thing. I spent about a month in California (del Mar and San Diego area), and I was lucky...the locals never fucked with me. Then again, I made sure I didn't go to crowded breaks. I hate crowds while surfing.

I went to Rincon and it was about 2 feet is all. I was pissed, but it has a beautiful LONG break.

Funny, some of the best waves I caught was in Brownstown, TX. I was extremely lucky as normally it doesn't break as big as it was that week.

Went surfing in the Costa Rica jungles, place called Santa Maria. Stayed there for about 4 days, then went back to civilization and surfed some of the more popular Costa breaks.

And, you can definitely tell surfers from others. We are a different breed of person from what we experience in the water.

Spent the better years of my life (young man days) surfing in the Hawaiian Islands. Learned more about life in the water than I did in school there, for sure. Sold my board a few years ago after tweaking my back a bit. I need to buy me a long board and chill like an old man should.

At times you could chill with a few sea turtles as they wait past the breakers to come in after sunset, to lay their eggs on the beach at night.

Teahupoo is an amazing wave, only wave that compares to Ehukai Beach Park (Pipeline) North Shore Oahu.

Eat it on a wave like Pipeline or Teahupoo will teach you a bit about how to survive in turbulant times me thinks.

Let go


[link to www.youtube.com]

Just reflecting a bit here with this one

Hey Cutbait. I grew up in Daytona, so we were always praying for nor-easter's or hurricanes to give us some size. Surfed Daytona, Ponce, New Smyrna, Melbourne, religiously.

I remember when Kelly Slater was 14. He cut me off on a wave. He was just starting to get a lot of recognition. I was pissed. My friend next to me said, "Hey, that was Kelly". I said, "So what! He can't surf that good. He failed on that wave."

lol, Kelly Slater is such a badass. I used to party with his brother Shawn for a about two years when he dated a waitress at a sports bar I used to work at in college.

My friends and I used to get drunk and go midnight surfing all the time. We would use the condo lights - when the moon was in the wrong place - to illuminate the face of the wave. If the face isn't shining, can't surf it real good, lol.

It was crazy though, because you are surfing a glowing line. The lights do not illuminate the entire face of the wave, only sections that reflect back to you. Everything else is liquid black.

The thrill of seeing the whale breaching right from their surf boards must have been phenominal! Wow!

thanks for sharing OP

:teahupoo:

I am on the East Coast now Septenary Man. Va., N.C. Outer Banks area. Not much size here, but good longboard type stuff. It has been a few years since I have surfed. Other than bodyboarding with the kids.

Never tried night surfing, remember trying to talk a buddy into trying it once, but no. But maybe someday. Yea, Kelly Slater is the real deal, lol. He proved his mettle at Pipe.

I was a hoale boy in the Islands back in the day. I stayed out of the way and was respectful, so I never had any problems with the locals. Surfed the lesser known breaks. Log Cabins was my favorite break for that.

The Storm Sandy moved a bit of sand around this year. seems I might have a wave with a good lefts and rights waiting for me. Just need to get back in shape a bit, lol

a few pics
[link to www.flickr.com]

Cool! I used to take trips up to Maverick's and watch the big wave surfers. "Watch" is the operative word here. I remember when Mark Foo took his last ride.

I still get choked up when I see paddle outs.

Surfers ARE a different breed. More in tune with the rhythm of the planet and life and the sea and everything. You can stand next to a surfer chick and feel her energy.

Rincon was a good place to learn at, being a point break and all.

:teahupoo2:

Why do humans want to kill these creatues?

[link to www.youtube.com]

I have seen this video several times before, and always feel awe and joy watching it!!

Thanks for sharing it.

The Wedge.

Amazing footage OP...thanks for sharing.

hell yeah!

What's the other place called that's like the Wedge?

Monster Hole! That's it. When I was growing up, they said it was un-surfable. They could ride it on a boogie board, but not surf boards.

Now, they surf it. Doesn't look like that much fun though. Shortest ride ever.

Reminds me of this pic.

:watermountain:

Beautiful

I'd have to agree with you. If its a board and you stand sideways I can ride it. That said, surfing was the trickiest for me to learn. Picked up wake surfing a few years ago and it was way less painful that learning to surf on a longboard all those years ago.

G'day from Oz fellow GLP surfers!

I suck at it, but I'll keep paddling out till I die :)

It is much harder than it looks, btw.


Here is a local guy, with some south coast beasts:


[link to www.surfline.com]

Awesome!